camatv

they clear stock frames but its really tight. the t-rex uses rotax valves that have this amazing screw in the top that can vary how much pressure it takes to open and close them. trial and error can go a long way with one of those. if the motor was getting tired and loosing comp it would affect how the valves react and open. also ruining the wrong 2 stroke oil can cause them to gum up and not open smoothly. a proper pv motor will come off idle and into the powerband very softly and then should have the ability to rev very high still making power. they can also add tq and hp outside of the pipes working range and extend the powerband both ways. a pipe that feeds off of this can make a pv motor very stout. a pipe that has way to much top end on a fixed port can work bad ass on a pv motor due to the pv being able to make the motor have tq on its own instead of relying on the pipe to do it for it. proper porting can also go a long way as well a rider manual controlled valve would be kinda funky. and also you would have to open and close them quite a bit.. the electronic style setup is bad ass because it works off of load more than exhaust pressure. if the motor is loaded to much but has a high exhaust pressure electric valves would stay shut to give the motor the tq it would need to pull out of that kind of situation. i believe a lot of snowmobile's are using this for pv control now.

yes you want fronts if your going to go ride around. just go borrow some or something. hell i might bring some for "rent" i will also have a bunch of extra flags if anyone needs them? duece's wild is on the whole other side of the dunes. if you do get drunk just dont fall down next to the fire with your pants down around your ankles. that kinda sucks

the pistons may have out gassed also. when powder coating aluminum i have to out gas it all the time. the "fumes" and oils etc in the aluminum will bake out and turn to gas when it is heated up. you have to cook most of it out before a powder coating will stick correctly.. this of course is just my personal experience and if it offends anyone well sorry i hope i spelled that right. i spent the extra 2 minutes to check with spell check since nobody can understand what i type i'd like to try some of the coatings myself. i'm working on a r motor soon and it will have to piston and other items coated to help with the heat.

ballin on a budget!! it seems everytime i have had some really nice exhaust for sale i get lowballed really bad.. check ebay or on the forsale section and ask for selers to be actually honest.

the 390's were in a pump gas 421 i built that is in the ole outlaw i had. i'm not 100% sure on that jet size.. i dont jet according to a specific size i jet to what the motor wants. dang coup. i recently switched my wifes 350 from pump to alky and back to pump at the dunes last trip. took me about 10 minutes to make the changes.. rode it on gas in the morning cause we were just crusin then switched to alky to burn up the stuff i had lying around and to do a lil racin.. lectrons are awesome.. pj's are a turd to jet but after you get the neelde right its not as bad still a pile of shit carb in my opinion..

what he said.. there is also something else you can do with it thats pretty freakin sweet.

if it was me i'd chage that out. some like those. but i personally dont like them at all.. they seem pretty unreliable.

pvl too.

DO NOT use the cable screws to adjust idle.. the cutouts at the bottom of the slides go OUT. towards the air filter.. also make sure your choke tube is in there ( common to leave that out) AND if you took both bowls off at the same time make sure you didnt put the choke bowl on the wrong carb.. the choke bowl has the choke supply plumbed and jetted for the pickup. the "kits" come with great instrustions and in those instrustions they say to GET an idle screw setup.

i know in the tight trails i love a banshee that has a powerband about 2500rpm long and ends at 10,500 rpm.s yea thats great for low to mid to topend. your not going to find a "pipe" that is going to strengthen the entire powerband on a banshee... nothing works from idle to 11k...

its in one of the serval dyno? posts. it was a 421 pv cheeta

twin 32's

mockup on unproven parts goes a long way

there are a bunch of single arm chassis out there floating around with total absolute shit front ends that go left and right when you unload them. its a freaking disaster right now. seen a few of them wreck already.. and to think my LSR was just "overpriced..:

single arm chassis are not sapposed to have any front wheel travel pump the marvins up to about 300psi each. its going to be stiff.. other than that either the front end is setup wrong either in the tie rod's or the upper shock mounts are wrong.. my LSR single arm goes straight and has absolutely NO wobble or shake at all at 80mph+ i can let go of one of the bars. ( im not doing both!) and it goes nice and straight. i can get on and off the throttle and it does nothing weird... BUT the front is nearly ridgid. thats the issue with single arm bikes..

with the pv;s installed, and proper porting to utilize them it would have had more low end. and the capacity to overrev easily into the 11000 range.. the graph of m+m's pv motor shows that. and i'm sure there was more in it. this motor has a nice straight curve exactilly what a fixed exhaust motor should look like.!

stock carbs on cubs i usually end up at 410 to a 420 main.. the ole 421 stock cylinder i had i think it was a 390 - 400 main. BUT if you havent done it it would be a good idear to do a leak down test. without the choke tube it would have ran lean as all get out i believe.

pistons, cranks rods lower bearings upper bearings will all have +/- tolerance's. it is very possible that with al the new stuff and possibly some differnt thickness gaskets that is what caused the super tight squish. on drag motors this is always checked at least on the ones i have built. to me its way to tight but i like a loose motor and run more timing and better fuel mixtures.

just call gt thunder and tell them what your doing with it...

a fellow in texas. right after he got it about flipped over on top of him, he said its a beast.

the m1000 or a 800 looks like a decent choice.. i'd prefer a wrecked already turbo'd setup in a complete bike. i have experience with 700 efi and the newer 450 efi with piggy back tunners.

damn give the dude a break already!! looks like a nice bike if you cannot figure out that +2 arms have more travel than stock well what the hell...

tried to send you a PM...?

then it wil go b b b b b b bb BRAPPPP

have jd cut a set of pegs for them.