camatv

since the case probably wont go together if you rearrange them. they stay on the same place.

one guys "drag port" is another's trail port. looks to me like the cylinders need checked out by some one who knows what they are looking at. i "trail rode a 85hp motor and a 100 hp alky engine. neither were very "fun" they were more terrifying than anything. i kinda liked it.

you can try the r1 shock OR get the rear swing arm a lil lower.. might be a lil much tire too.. easy way might be also to air the tires up untill it settles down!

go back to stock. OR lectron 30-32mm those carbs handle temps changes much better

14,500!!! holy hell

WOW i have NEVER seen shift forks completely break in half like that! if that happend it possibly got actually locked in 2 gears at the same time and had no where to go. thats nuts.. i think the above paragraphs explained a lot on what the differences are. in my humble opinion a "duneable" unless set up by a MASTER with spring pressures and installed in the cases for you WILL eat shift forks like crazy. i have a (Well known shop name) 2-5 duneable and after literally 3 rides it started pooping out of 5th gear. i was pretty easy on the trans and after the next ride i split the motor. it had already chewed up the dogs and also chewed up a shift fork. wow. i also have a few other override and each one has been done by differnt shops. some do the drum in weird ways almost looks like its done by hand. others the drum looks weak as hell from underwelding , or cutting to deep and down into the base of the drum leaving holes WOW or the dogs and gears are terribly angle cut. they dont ride on the opposing gears fully or in a way that i feel keeps them center'd, now these all shifted ok in their own way. and remarkable most held up better than the "duneable". i have seen other duneables come out and nearly every one had destroyed the shift forks within a year i do have ONE from a real machinist that is absolutely beautiful. this shop is unfortunately out of business due to lack of work. that override has been surviving for years and tons of passes with a lot of OOPS and various abusive shit on my part. the drum, and gears are all cut in a way that they work together excellent. with what i have learned on these stock mods and what i feel i have learned from that override i HOPE to be able to release one soon that i think will work great. BUT its been on the very back burner of my " projects list" due to financial reasons and the fact that i just will not comprimise on this override at all. basically to answer the override or modified stocker questions. do you ride trails, dunes, play ride, goof off, do wheelies, have more than just pipes and jetted, let your friends, girlfriend, wife, whatever ride your bike, do you ever just want to cruise around and not want to worry about the trans. do you like to put through the trails, dunes and want to just do clutchless shifts by letting off the throttle just a second you need a modified stocker.. do you drag race, dune drag, have a monster of a motor and a shit ton of weight on a lockup, need more than an 8 plate clutch, is that all you do with the bike and you have to have to have to be the fastest guy there? you need an override. and preferably a good one. there is plenty of crap out there unfortunately i don't recommend duneable or spring assisted to anyone. the constant rubbing of the forks on the gears causes to much premature wear in my opinion. and the trade off is not worth it i feel the concept i think is good but it just needs some refinement to work well..

i'm reposting this from sand slingers if all you have is a stock bike bring it. bring the kids bring the wife's lets get the attendance up on this. the track is nice and well taken care off. the staff is great and laid back. we need to get the attendance up on this Please! All dates are subject to change. Call before you haul....Leroy 316-250-7386 March 16,23 tnt April 20 tnt May 11, 25---Big race memorial weekend <-cancelled June 8, < ------ cancelled June 22 still on next race July 6, 20----Fourth of July race August 3, 17 September 14, 28 October Fall Shootout--12

decided to stay home.

it varies. some memorials it has been busy with a LOT of drag bikes. but last few years the SXS has taken over and it just a lot of burrrrrr burrrrrrrr burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr all the time. in fact i plan on being there but with the drag bikes out of commission right now its just me and the new teryx. hey at least it dosent go burrrrr like the polaris! it goes BRACKK! if anyone wants a lil drag bike help feel free to ask me.

what suspension are you running? stock? no link lower'd rear? dont raise the rear that will make it worse. you need to get the geo better. lower the rear and make the shock work more. a +10 may be just what you need. if its JUST a drag bike get an arm, get a r-1 shock OR works drag shock, or a springed marvin, fox float etc) and go have some fun suspension is going to work to your advantage. my wife's handles 12 paddle haulers it will wheelie at times with a +6 but it is manageable. r-1 rear and lower'd works up front. BUT its a full weight frame with steel axle and +2 steel arms and heavy swinger too. if it was me personally i'd just do shock's and go to a 10 to 12 over.

my cr500 has marbled red motor. that was hard to acomplish ( well not really but never seen it again) the swingarm was a screw up its a black gloss with a translucent red flake red on top. it turned it almost purple. oops..

my bike will be retired for a while but there should be others there that can hopefully bring up the slack.

the tz or roller style bearing can take HUGE amount of load and live to see another day. with the ball style ( oem style) and the twisting motion of the stock angle cut gears with higher HP can lead to all kinds of problems. i think i still have a crank out in the shop with a cracked bearing on it. higher HP motors with crap crank bearings will blow crank seals, then crack the bearing, and/or seperate the keepers, then they can just plain explode. think about it like this the angle cut gears on the OEM side of crank- clutch cause the shafts to push apart. it makes them run quiet because of the constant mesh. on a 35-60 hp motor its usually not that big of a deal. you get higher in the HP and that pushing apart is going to get worse and worse. add in a non welded crankshaft thats going more and more out of true adn you also have all that vibration causing hell on the bearings also. either the main trans bearing behind the clutch is going to blow ( highly unlikely because of all the slop in the bushing to shaft) OR the bearing on the crank is going to go ( much more likely because of the direct pressures put on that bearing. )

there are things you can do with the dyna that cannot be done with the stock cdi without more "add on's"

why would you NOT run the TZ or roller side with stock angle gears???????? thats the BEST bearing you can run?? i have run roller on the drive side with ANY upgraded build that will use stock drive gears. they make the flex non existent in the crankshaft. you will NEVER have a bearing issue if you run that setup. ( unless you run a china bearing or install it all wrong or some other issue) if you have a higher hp cub OR serval its a great easy cheap upgrade to the crank to run a roller bearing on the drive side. i will not build a motor up unless that is one of the things done to the crank. do a few searches and you will find a bunch of higher HP motors with blown drive side bearings from the side load of the angle'd gears. its threads like this with bad info that leads to bad rumors.

used LSR's go for around 250-400 bucks. why get a cheap ass pile of crap when that kind of quality is available... last LSR +4 i had listed i couldnt sell for 450 and it was a HD version with triple show chrome..

gearing motor weak on top and running out of fuel motor running to lean from fuel starve and about to blow the hell up.. thats what i would check. to run top speed for any amount of time usually takes a pretty rich mixture... plus timing, electrical, motor condiditon, air filter tire size wind speed etc will ALL affect this issue.

might have to throw this back on the table finally and try to get it done..

nice looking build. i also think the engine is to high but thats just me. in mine i was shooting for the lowest center of gravity. i also did inframe pipes so not sure how this is the first one?? guess i need to get some pics of the pipes, plastics and how that all fits on here?

do the pipes exit and the inlet of the silencers match up? mock your motor up and toss it in the frame. mount pipes. go from there.

always replace cases in a matched pair.

something else wrong. is all the washers and clips on the trans? both gears that 2nd engages have nice dog edges? clutch adjusted right? bottom end oil good? shaft fork rides on not bent or damaged?

check fluids check jetting. rip through all 6 gears about 4 times.. recheck jetting if its good do it again. go ride. after a good ride change bottom end oil. have fun

i had a set of skat mohawks i hated them.. they pushed just as bad as stockers in the corners. i love the floaters with the tiny ribs all around them they work excellent cruisin around dont rember their names but they are on the wife's bike. dont throw sand up like single blades, float on the sand excellent, and turn very nicely.

i'm going to look into it more..