camatv

if you wack a tree in the trails even a decent steal axle is going to bend.. i have had nearly every so called drag axle out there. jj+a is hands down the absolute best. snap a piece of shit one, wreck and break 3 ribs a the beginning of ride season. thats makes you think about quality a lot

if the world was a better place we would all be running methanol in everything. or even better solar, and methane, but alas greed is such a contributing factor.. i want to setup my 1950 ford with a small 267 v-8 chevy motor to run on methanol.

jolly so! good thing we haves das google

your such a fucktard pharlps.. yo dont even have a bike let alone the nuts to build another one to even attempt to race mine. any further than 200 ft and you slam on the brakes anyways. i'll leave it dirty just for your stupid ass.. its not a show n shine its a dune race... i'm there to RIDE not make excuses or complain about how the wind is blowin 2 mph and its just a lil too much for your justin beber face... fat or not nothing you got could touch any of my bikes at all./ hell even my polaris would beat your....... oh thats right you cannot even get on the sand let alone back up any of your retarded bullshit. your too busy trying to make your life seem like it actually means something or that anyone on here besides coup even likes your whinny ass. hell your such a bad ass mechanic couldnt even get a crank seal to last a few trips to the dunes. my fuckin bike you beat with its 300lb ass fat fuck and 6 year old smoked clutch was 6 years old, has much more stories of dune races than any pile of shit track chassis you converted to have front suspension and shake like a fucking pile that it was so bad you even called it the wet noodle. nobody even rembers that pile or even what it looked like hell only pics you even have of it was what? from that weekend?? the weekend we all went down just to fuck off and of course you were there nobody to race that weekend,, nobody to dare take any good pics or any real competition for you to maybe get your feelings hurt. god forbid that might happen. my piles of shit dusty old dirty ass bikes have been to the dunes more than you have. raced better competition and had more fun than you every have yea your pile of shit beat mine no excuses it just happened. not like i really even care anymore hell that was what 2 + years ago now?? i have been back on the sand, raced better friends, had better times than you might ever have again. no borrowing bikes here i ride my own shit. dusty dirty or just plain ole stanky they fuckin run and i built every motor, ported every cylinder, tuned every jet, tightened every bolt in the fuckers. if you park next to me i wont even care. talk shit all you like, try to stare me down in your truck giving me the "onion face" i wont give a shit your not worth the breath it would take to even say "fuck you phelps" over the 7+ years of me running the dunes on a drag bike, and only story you have is " that one time at band camp"... like anyone even gives a fuck anymore.. i sure dont soo in closing i want to just say the one great phrase that even a t-shirt has on it, made by a felloow burrito eatin, beer drinkin, dune riding, heavyweight jocky racing friend of mine made.. > Fuck You Phelps <

i actually have... ??? are you really just trying to follow around people to piss off on here?? i mean really like you would ever actually show up to this track at all?>?> wife has been in school all last 3 years and things have been tight around here. so no the bikes arent that high on my priority list..

yes dirt drag round har all the time. launch in 4th

ran back to back.. plugs have 2 passes back to back on them. motors continue to create heat every run. if they dont cool down to idleing temps in the pipe and in the moor you will have readings that are a lil off not necessairily a bad thing you would want to tune the motor to overall have a good strap, base reading and NOT a one pass good reading. since you ride the bike and its not a track one pass bike that makes a difference.. get new plugs. change mix ratio to 32-1 gap plugs at .18 tho adjust needle to idle, have clean just of idle performance. bottom pj's turn them 3 turns out. ride bike. make one full throttle pass. stop yank plugs look at the burn ring. if plugs are clean and show no heat at all OR if bike blubbers and wont run clean. raise needle 1/4 turn, adjust pj's in half turn. reinstall run again. you want to watch the burn around the base of the plugs. the one on the left looks fine the one on the right looks grey, and the burn ring from what i can tell is right at the strap. measure your needles length and see if they are the same length left to right. might also check to see if your pj's are drilled the same size left to right if they are you should probably do a quick leak down test OR run the right side 1/2 turn more on the pj. basically what i look at IF i actually pull the plugs out is the closer to the strap the burn gets the hotter it is running. timing i just adjust untill the top end drops off and back it down a tad from there. anymore i dont even look at the plugs i know from riding what the motor is going to want. if i think there is a problem i will check the plugs if you have the needle set about right ( not to rich not to lean) and first pass with pj's all the way open it blubbers from to rich pj, just turn them down 1/4 turn till it cleans up. thats your max rich setting to run.. easy..

now thats diggin up a dinosaur drag bike! the experience with the rz is just going to transfer over to your banshee. you should be able to jet it pretty easily biggest thing is your going to wonder where all the lower end power is onthe banshee due to it not being a pv like the rz.. whats funny is i just recently got a 400 polaris scrambler for a trail bike. to many joint problems to really ride the banshee in the trails hard anymore.

you wont need the pump unless you are running a really long ways at WOT. with th eopingle and big bowls it should be fine. the pump willjust present more problems than what it is worth.. a crappy shitty idle you should be able to still run them down some try a 1/4 turn at a time and you are setting the flat towards the engine after you screw them in right? i can get them to run just like a gas carb thats tuned well. no just off idle bobble no excessive smoke. and yes that motor is really underestimated..

ya dawg gots my snow yet ni fr raw yea mane

the larger dm's need to have the extra fuel capacity these provide.. gotta keep those piles cool. they really are nice carbs i will be trying a set on a smaller cc motor sometime they are HUGE carbs! hopefully they clear the case without having a super tall cylinder from such a huge stroke. i'm going to try them on the 535

are you looking to buy new pipes?? or just have a bike with ( bla bla pipes) and are wanting to upgrade.. t-5's are a decent all arounder pipe. they arent a bottom end pipe, not a top end pipe but sound good and run ok. a lot of other things are going to dictate what you bike rides like. motor tune, reeds, porting etc etc can all have an effect.

if i rember right its a plastic seal on that lil piston? look at the base and you will see the lil supply holes make sure they are not plugged or have crustys in there from carbon build up. 927 will not work on a pv motor. but if it was all fresh it should have ran. at least the 1st day. when you say your not grounding the stator? is the grond there on the back of the plate? and then a black wire coming off the stator to the main harness?? you need to ground the stator. check plug boot resistance make sure it is around 5k ohms or less. pull the plugs and kick the motor around it should have a nice bright BLUE spark. any orange or yellow and the coil is weak or the boots are shit. on alky run the plugs with .18 tho plug gap any more and it can cause misfire at higher rpms. figured i'd post my responses to your pms here also. guess i'm one of the only ones who has gotten these motors figured out??

damn dude sounds like you have a jacked up motor.. it may be way to rich on the pj OR the pj is plugged inside the bowl. the 927 will stick a valve in less than one days ride. you maybe able to push them up just fine but when the motor is running they wont work. try the blocks first IF the motor revs then you know yo have a problem in the pv pressure up side. check he supply hole in the base make positivley sure it is clear. and there is a gasket in between the top plate, and middle section and gasket inbetween the pv base and the cylinder right? the pv has to see exhaust pressure or it will never open up.

then dont run 2 psi on a formed paddle.. i wouldnt ever run less than 5-8 on a sand star. here in our local ride spot i have ran 160 dwt's with no problems on formed paddles. and its heavy river rock, dirt, sand mix. BUT i'd only run paddles like skats down on the pathetic drag strip here. if any where else kenda klaws seemed to work the best. 1-2 psi might as well be flat tire.

fo sho bra twoz bards we nevaz gots da upsdayte i heard this bike be a 7 millz with da big stroken billetxs 20's on my tahoe bitches be like WHAAA

stock frame and a motor size and on methanol leaves a lot to the imagination.. if its on a stock swingarm and hooks up and runs like it should you will have horrible times. bike will pretty much flip over on the line.. you would have to ease into it so much then run like hell last 200ft! better be running big bowls, pingle, drilled cap etc.. or its going to run dry about 298 ft and then lock up last 50 ft.

if you jump sideways or ride like a goon. run a beadlock. running sand stars and beadlock its obvious your not out for performance only.

coolant will come out of the holes most likely if they are threaded into the coolant port. no big deal.. mega grey the threads done. i sent a PM about it after your question. IF everything else checks out then... the pv's are most likely not opening, if you use the wrong oil ( 927) they will gum up and stick closed. you will have to remove them and clean them off then clen the port and reinstall. many times with a "my pv motor sucsk" complaint it is because they are stuck closed. ALSO the pv trinity style have passages in the bases of them that are very small a LOT of times they get plugged up and that will not let them open up at all. i have seen this a lot also. the small jets in the bases of them can be installed way to small and will make them not open up worth a poo either. also some pv's have been openeind up and are missing parts seals etc on the piston that opens them up. check yours and make sure they are all there if they are used. pv's will NOT make a motor fall on its face. if done right they will enable a much higher exhaust duration to be ran that a fixed motor can handle AND be able to run much more tire/ gear than normal motor can handle. If taking them out and the block off's make it seem to run ok then it is a sticking valve issue or some other issue with the valves themselves. i have never bought a set of used valves that were not previously fucked up ever. i have always had to work on them. no wonder people take them out... also if the motor wont rev it wont make any heat and will not likely be able to be tuned by the plugs yet.. also i think i rember you saying you were going to use some other alky??>? what brand are you running and what mix oil are you running. only certain mix oils will actually mix with alky. if at all possible just use klotz supertechniplate it is the ONLY oil i have used that works with the pv's and mixes with alky well.

double box. foam 1" sheets cut to fit peanuts in the 2nd box the motor fits into. shit ton of tape. and /or have a pro packer build the box, then insure it for 5grand

good lord.. ok i understand why wiseco may release a piston like this. most peeps like to build their own motors. i'm guessing that with the spacer plate setup and all bolt together componets they finally figured out that maybe just maybe they dont run the best. heck you can even buy a "kit" with a big thick ass head gasket to do it the other way.. so this piston i'm guessing is an attempt to make a 4 mill kit more drop in ready ( not runs the best ready but drop into any existing setup ready).. i see it as a buy all this and race next weekend.. now most after reading a few pages in this site and maybe some that have decided that the other ways are not the best after getting beat on by a fat guy on a ported 350cc motor decide to have an actual port matched and proper dome profile 4 mill motor built have figured out that the above afermentioned setup is not the best at all.. attempt to edjumicate you on why the drop in maybe dosent work the best but you still decide that its the way to go thats fine.. oh and also i dont run window'd 413 pistons in my 535 cheeta either... it seemd to run pretty good.... some motors need window skirts some do not some it dosent really matter that much really..

its like 3 hours from you? coup./ maybe i should bust out the slowaris for this one!

ok i stopped reading at about page 5. the steel basket i think is a good idear. but i personally think the one on the ebay could be lightened a shit ton and still be strong enough. just big ass fingers in steel has me concerned.. the comments about the ktm clutch advancements makes perfect sense to me also. if a well known multi million dollar company is willing to do them this way and thinks after investing who knows how much in the design and manufacture of a new clutch system then decided to use steel for longevity that says a lot to me about the idear. as far as all the bitchin and whining most failures are from dumb mistakes or abusing crappy parts, and bad installs, tuning etc. holy shit didnt know this was 22 pages of bullshit!

i think you are right sir

nothing is going to slip only so much in only one gear. unless you start working on controlling the clutch with your damn hand like a real rider does.. you can control wheel spin with your clutch using your hand easily if you just develop the skills to do so. then you can take that damn lockup off your bike and just go from there.. using the clutch manually with a lockup in higher rpms is impossible. removing rotating weight is going to pay off big time as far as holeshot is concerned/. also on a race your clutch is going to heat up and do all kinds of things the the stack height of that multistage and probably act completely differnt after a few laps on the track.. id spend the money on a nice solid basket that can handle using the clutch to do its job by hand. also IF they did make a rekluse for the banshee i also think that would be a great option for you. are you running an override on the race bike also?? to me the reason most have no clue what to do with these damn multi stages is because they are in essence guessing at what to change.. with no real data logging at all at least none that i have ever seen on anyones bike its all a guess. its easy to do and modern big hp race motors dont use springed arms bullshit on their clutch packs. if the lockup is failing to stay together how are you ever going to learn anything with setting it up differently?? plus compound that with a shit motor setup that breaks constantly or destroys parts how can you ever develop that also>>? oh thats right just hit it with a ton of NOS and pray it actually shifts.