camatv

oh hell this is just stupid anyways,

i'd lean towards the triples. i dont think your going to be working oil so much your going to need a resy. the trip spring will give you a nice plush inital hit and in the tight trails your probably going to like that more.. just my opinion.

lots of sub par parts available right now.. good thing is there are a lot of improved parts that can make or break a build..

ok then.. its pretty obvious you sold your shit because you cannot ride worth a shit anyways. hell id stay at home and whine about my life to people on the internet who could care less too if i was that much of a pussy. obviously you must make so much cash that you just take your vehicles if you even have any to the dealership to get parts installed that you have no clue where they cam from. ya fack you too you can say what you want but as far as i know your the only one i know that pissed off a dude so much that he made a banner saying " fuck you phelps" and even t -shirts that said the same thing. then your sorry ass didnt even show up to race the guy you had been calling out the whole time. and i'm the lasy ass? ya i'm the fucktard here phhhhh mkay

you can also leave that retarded guard off the front wheels..

why is the class cut off at 525?? i always wonder'd who came up with these cc limits. there are a lot of 535's out there.

k+n webb site or any paper book has filters by size measurements and flange size. sudco has listings for mikuni style 2 bolt flange's with the dia listed also. just searchings lectron boot for 2-1 will probably get you nothing..

i have also removed 27.5's and 30's from bikes because they were way to rich at idle and right off idle. a lot of motors around here like the 25's after the carbs are synched dead on and th emain is really close AND the rest of the bike is solid.. the idle mixture screw can tell you if your slow is to big or to small really quickly now your area where you ride it may be different. really you just need to tune to what the motor wants AFTER everything else is verified to be ok. more often than not this is the case other problems that seem like jetting issues. the best tool i ever built was a leak down tester. i should have made one years and years ago.

sb cpi and bb cpi are only differnt in the stinger outlet size on the pipe at least from what i have seen. the cpi bb i felt work better than the small's i run 12 hauler on a 350 and it "works great" bb shear and sb shear are 2 diff pipes bigs dont seem to work well on small motors with his pipes.. probably because of the actual diff in pipe design. not just stinger size. sb shear on my 350 are hands down much stronger pipe for racing than the cpi's were.

he didnt even throw in a free sticker? or an old issue of dirt wheels?? a free coupon for a large coke from mc donalds? he he

hell yea.

balloon thing?? i'm guessing you mean the exhaust chamber? if you are they pv uses a chamber to trick the motor into thinking it has a differnt size pipe on it. some aftermarket you can get spacers for them to tune the power of the motor.

i was just about to say the same thing. 4 mill's dont require a trench to be done.. if you can get it welded and the rest of the case is in good shape just fix em..

wow over 66 is really really thin!

you need to plug HQ so tyler can get more free shit!! just let them know that their sponsorship is working

looks like an atc 70 gas tank h aha

um didnt you see that dyno graph?!?!?!? duh!

see you can haul a bike AND all your shit ! i like that.. the best thing you can achieve on brakes is one finger control.. get that and your set!

where have you been hiding this bike?

what a joke. how about just put the motor in something and see if it will start.. i use cranking comp to check if a motor should run if it wont run. usually you can feel if comp is to low just through pushing it over by hand..

yeap and those crank bearings are not ball bearing style.. pretty sweet huh.. plus even better check out that factory case stuff.. neato is that a ktm motor? i have a 380 in the gerage that i am contemplating installing into a yfz chassis. but also have a 95 yz 250 i could use also. case reed motors have a certain powerband.. they really seem to be more higher strung motors.. what i think i did was similar to that but using a piston ? reed port motor configuration. and yes without the added ports it cannot happen on the oem banshee motor. i did it in a way that i havent seen before. and required welding up the sides of the cylinders. whats really interesting on the 350 i did is it deff has a noticeable power surge in the top of 3rd and 4th gear. its weird and i have never had a motor do anything like it. i think the motor is reacting to the increased load OR the flow just happens to all come together and the pipe optimizes at that point also. i will see what will happen when i drop 140 lbs off the bike into the drag chassis and put in an override, and crank up the timing. of course these are my opinions. i PERSONALLY build motors to last. so i look at lubrication aspects pretty closely. if you want to fill in that throgh, and leave a lil bitty hole in there for a high strung high rpm motor thats cool i just do it a lil different.

the factory's use testing to come up with what they want. if you want an interesting read on that get gorr's modification book for dirt bikes. in there there is information on mis matching differnt year parts on differnt versions of motors to get differnt power bands some of it is really intersting. also a lot of differnt ways to get more power out of bad combo's and a lot of great info on getting what you want with what you have.. i really think you would find that interesting.. back in my mx days i set up a lil 125 cr just the way the book described and it was ran in the class where the bike year onlymatter'd he usually out ran the 250's and most times was right onthe back tires of the 500's most times the bike finished in the top 3. it was a really rideable bike.

1600!!!!!!!!!!!!! you guys ride the shit out of those bikes.. hell yea

that cub pic is pretty old shit ton of casting flash in the transfer tunnel newer ones aren't nearly as bad. and simple clean up port works wonders on them

i did the case texture back in 2000... also didnt do it a lot and never really noticed a big difference.. on the oil thing i have noticed more with differnt brand oils leaving "puddles" in the cases after disasssembly and also a few oils leave nothing. yamapube seems to leave a dirty dry film at best. the better certified oils leave a complete oily film all over the internals of the motors. after a while they settle down in the bottom of the case. on the case match i have never seen one with that deep of a trench towards the back of the cylinder. i'm thinking thats too maybe pickup the spray off the crank and hose it into the transfer area. thats cool but i dont do mine like that because i dont try to spray the intake charge towards the crank lower section... it makes more sense to me to have it go right in the transfer... hmm also i dont like to do nothing with the case bearing oil supply holes i personally do a lot more with that area to help with lubrication.. i have seen some cases filled in in that area and just the single small hole for the lube to hit the bearing.. didnt like that much.. whats funny is that motor had bad crank bearings in it... hmm just my notes on this..