camatv

it wont self tune until the initial tune is right... and my thinking if your tuning challenged it might be a steep learning curve.. even lectrons if the needle is wrong, no matter how much you move it up and down, will never run right. being able to know where its lean/ rich as far as throttle position, load, and motor heat reactions goes a long way in figuring out what to do. BUT i dont think that apt is going about this right way ?.. lectron has a program that if you want you can order 4-5 different needles, try them all then return the ones you dont run and just pay for the ones you use.. but packard can get you really close if you call and talk to them as far as banshee's go. apt should be able to get to that point but im not sure whats going on that they dont offer that already? if they claim to have the banshee motor figured out already..

just get them through a sponsor. http://www.uppracing.com/item.php?pid=505&cid=70 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chariot-Banshee-Single-Intakes-Pair-Stock-Cub-SuperCub-cylinders-/281039039167?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416f3b6abf&vxp=mtr

slp

i can always drag it to HQ ride also

hmmmm ... i'm worried if i actually type what i think i will get in trouble again.. i hope you the best. wish you were closer to me i'd like to try these out tunning wise

i second that also.... WAY more tq than a fo fiddy dont have to rev to the moon to get it to go anywhere. will make 65hp with ease with much more on tap if wanted...

you cannot call NOSS and say you want a set of redline spec domes. noss has some suggested domes and says ( at least to me) that he has cust a ton if differnt shapes and profiles for differnt builders over the years. i even have a dome i prefer.. but i settled on this shape after running many shelf style domes, custom cuts from other people and some really off the wall shit too

i use my bank through paypal all the time of course i have a completely seperate account than my day to day account.

peg the stocker. rotate it as far as it will go. back off one degree and watch your tune. compare times.. do some real tuning to both and see what works best.

i rember driving 17 hours one way to pick up a lsr blue and white pile.... then 17 hours home to find out the motor was smoked. but its been a hell of a ride its been a long road on that bike but i have made a shit ton of improvements to that motor.. ( the 535) i will say i have been recomending driveline clutch's for a long time now. i use them in a lot of the builds i have done over the years..

might be something else..

hell fmf's run betta DUH

i have a big project in a box.

them englighmen deals in das celciuss.. and das matreec systems but har in ~merica~ we dont take kindly to them thar forenjers...

you can tell from the burns on your legs

the snomo bikes are saaaweet..

of course i actually owned an outlaw chassis..... so i know what a real mx/dunner/banshee motor frame actually should feel like.. it cannot be described and to say that it rides like a 250r is so far off the mark also. you would have to wreck the hell out of an outlaw to really damage it bad.. that being said i would support a 09 yfzr hybrid. i personally think it would be a better conversion than the older yfz hybrids i have been working with lately... ALSO i really like to 700 raptor conversion that uses the newer yfxr chassis also.. and since i ahve done a few hybrids then i might have some real experience with what it takes.. i HAVE not built frames from scratch so i dont really have any experience in that area... so i'm not going to comment about that.. a DM in a rider bike would be retarded i FEEL> talk about overheating...... the cheeta with pv's would make MORE than enough tq to scare the pants off you. my outlaw was in the 55tq range it took a LOT of respect to ride it..

good concept... i always felt the newer yfzs would work better.

the OEM frame i had a while back straight from yamaha had no vin, no attached vin, no spot where a vins ever was at..

the outer crank bearing may have damage to it. if you can check the runout of the outer stub. if it is significant you have some big time problems. in my opinion for builders call them all the ones that want you to run pv's in a trail bike stick with them. the ones that say " those valves are a waste of time i can make it run 135hp!!!" might not have your actual riding interests in mind... i run a timing plate and some of them i run the stock curves ( because with the timing plate and those curves i can get the initial i want with the less on the higher rpms i want also.) i have ran custom mapped dyna's also most noticeable was the one on my outlaw. it was custom mapped in great bend at gigots. lots of tq to be gained if done right...

DAMN guess i missed a lot of arguing.. i guess i still just dont get what all the bitchin is about. the driveline performance thing has me intrigued tho.. no matter what they are lighter than a DM piston...

if you want a tq motor ditch the fattys and go to a t6 or slp.. in my limited experience changing window size and placement really dosent do much at all. if these pistons were made to sell wang cranks in cheapo 4 mill motors man talk about cutting the costs where ever possible? now running the non window'd piston and doing a lot of work elsewhere in the cylinder seemed to make a lot of lower end. of course my idears with them involve changing the pathway of the intake charge.

you need to hurry up and get the klots and reinstall the pv's!

i love the dyna's on my bikes.. the bigget issues i have seen with the so called "failures" was the wrong plugs.. your running resistor plugs and most likely resistor caps. thats great for a dyna its a much more advanced digital ignition and any outside interference will cause them to skip and mess up.. running a b8es style plug is a guarantee fucked up ignition. maybe not right away but eventually the feedback noise will confuse them enough they will screw up. also shitty wiring has toasted a few also. there are a ton of "OOPS my ( insert random ground failure here) fell off" threads on this site i have 5 dyna's and ran them on almost all my bikes. in the many years i had one fail after running non resistor plugs in it and it started skipping.. i run br8eix or br9eix plugs.. they will fire and rev easier.. the all stock ignition setup really likes eix plugs for that reason. and like i said about 7 degree's is what seemed to work with my 10 mill also. the longer stroke, longer piston dwell time i think dosent need the added advance. i ran my dyna at no initial advance and the plate at 7 or also a few other curves.... with the adjustment you can actually run more inital advance... then a lot less in higher rpm than a static plate only advance.... 350's and 4 mill stroke thats a whole nother setup... i like about 12+ cheeta's are not cubs they will handle a tad amount of deto. if you dont roast it enough to melt a piston the real stud layout pattern will keep the head from lifting and roasting an o-ring, trashing a cyl like a cub is really prone to do. best thing ever is i blew the entire cyl off the cases one time. broke all the case studs and ripped the nuts thread out of the 4 that were left. rode it back to the pits.. that winter made a set of hardened studs and nuts for the cases. fixed that shit right up., then last 2 or 3 year's ago? after changing to racers edge pipes i actually lifted the head up around the copper washers i used on the head adn blew out the o-rings.. some sealer grade 10 flange washer'd nuts and thats was fixed.. now the plating is so worn its actualy starting to show alluminum in the cyl. yeap time for a rebuild..

your bike has a shift indicator on it?? hell i just shift up till it stops spinning..