camatv

wait a second you actually claim to ride your SHEE t in stilleto's? and then put them outside your trailer (um manufactured home) on your 20 acres because it messes up the floor ( also implying that you have actually walked in your so called builtish trailer in muddy stilleto's as well... ) mkay. thats the worst attempt at a comeback i think i have seen on this site.. and if you did a search HA there are plenty of bad ones even a simle "fuck you fart city john. at least people dont say they are going to go sit on me when they take a shit" would have been better? J U S T S A Y I N>>

nice clean bike to me.

dangit. i have refer'd a LOT of locals to you for their seat needs...

gotta love ebay... on a side not tho. an atc still in the crate was a HUGE ebay item a long while back.. this one being an all black 06 is not seen very often... but i dont think worth 8100

working on fundage now

me too i heard DDQ made a handbook on drag racing. i follow it to the T its worked for me pretty well all i know is if you take the steel foot pegs off yer stocka chassis then weld on some steel pipe ya stole from under that abandoneded hizzouse ya'llz gots a drag bike mane. damn thoght yousir knewz this?

more bore = more rpm. more stroke = more tq. more cc = more power ( potentially) more size = more weight = more issues with breakage potentially done

ha ha bobby.. hell my chassis are both "real drag chassis" and neither have bolted on foot pegs. since thats all i look at that must just be the way it is LOL

heck that thread on atvdrag is from 2011??

real drag chassis dont have bolt on foot pegs... haha i rember when zac was "watching the flywheel" those were good times.

i will take the trinity pipes.. might even take the EFI.. gigot is 2.5 hours from me..

its a jacked up design. with billet bowls and the rubbed on floats they will stick a lot..

cheeta's can run more compression and live. just loosen up the squish in them and they can handle some comp. 145/85 is wow! helll there are dm's not making that.

pressure test the cooling side to the cap's rated blow off.. its a lot like a leak down test on the internals of the motor except you are testing the internals of the cooling system. sometimes there is a head gasket leak but because of the coolant in the motor if the head is leaking into the coolant passages it may not show with only a 6psi leak test. the caps are usually around 10-17psi blow off. i pressure the coolant system to about 12ish. did you also flat test the cylinder? it could be warming up and warping enough to start eating coolant. ?? if your leak tester is one of the ones that has just a single sided gauge and pressure port. switch the sides when you leak test it. i run a t fitting between the test plugs and the p gauge is fitted in between the 2 intake plugs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boyesen-Rad-Valve-RAD-15-/191291574375?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c89ddc867&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-YZ250-BOYESEN-RAD-VALVE-YZ-250-1995-/361005568743?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540d9bd2e7&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-TRX250R-R-BOYESEN-REED-VALVE-SYSTEM-REEDS-ENGINE-/271419298027?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f31d9d0eb&vxp=mtr the banshee is the only one i have seen that fits the stock intake. but MAN talk about a low end cc increase..

depends on the arms. i have an override thats extra here right meow. have a 2-5 duneable and a 1-5 duneable.

http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/products/dual_float_assembly.hti have not tried it but i believe they are glued in there... i use a completely differnt float setup in the ones i convert. they are oem floats that i have to modify to fit.. but no pins and no more sticky floats from dragging the sides of bowls...

you can just swap to leverfloat style if the pin wont stay in there.. i will look thursday and see if i have one for sure. if i do i'm pretty sure i can mail it to you

im going to try and lift an aftermarket cylinder up that was cut for a 350cc to run a 4 mill crank. i need one for under the cylinder.. throw out a few prices or pm me if you would rather. thanks!!

if you got the reeds new i believe in the structioonz it sayz to do that. if not welp now ya know. and knowing is half the battle.

i build my own motors. the one skeet has i did. its not all out crazy. but when tanner had it it ran really good for a 400

i personally like the full fender look.... but thats just me

yes.. if you use cr250 reed they need to be the same year. some of the latter ones had some interesting reed setups. if its an 250r they also should be the same year. or use vforce reeds in it,. the rotax valves would be a great option but the bolt pattern is a lil wider on the ones i have had here. then the spring pressure would be adjustable much easier..

shazam

woo