camatv

i'm looking for 2 spacers for under the cylinder. i can make these but i know some remove them from 4 mills.. lket me know what chu got. the cheaper the better. not sure if they are going to work for what i am trying to do

i think i do i remove them for "special applications...

https://www.twocycleguys.com/showProduct.aspx?SEName=boyesen-reeds-rad36m1-01-rc2-rad-valve-38-40mm-keihin&ProductID=224285&gclid=CK6DzqjxmMACFQQQ7AodOFMA5w and i am in no way attempting to sell this item.. so dont ban me bro

290-350 mains on stock carbs. i am pretty sure you cannot make a banshee stator work with the yfz regulator. try baja designs regulator for floated ground style set ups. banshee's do not have a rectifier they have a voltage regulator thats only for running lights.

all other rad valves are that way. might be a nice option for a cub? be interesting to see a comparison to an intake with v4 and these.

pm me your phone number. i'll send some that way if you like.

looking for decent set of t6 pipes OR SLP pipes, will do a transmission for the trade and cover shipping. let me know. pm

the old a models were larger for larger carb setups. the b's were setup to stuff the stock intakes and make a lot of velocity and less low end cc ratio.. i liked them a lot also. the og a's are very rare. i have a set here. havent seen the new? larger 40mm style? i always liked the rad valve for the aluminum material construction. i have a set off a 250r i am going to modify for a cheeta.

im looking for some drag j-arms or just a decent set of +2"s prefer dentons. i will do a stock modded trans and cover all shipping for both for the right deal. just pm me with offers

i think i have a few billet covers. for pvl. its going to need a flywheel. stock polished clutch cover also?

350 drag motors like to REV> you better dump the t-5's and get some real pipes. after that a set of 39's to 44's will really pull on top

were they 36/38 lectrons?

when you put the pv's in mike. if the top end hp numbers are not EXACTILLY THE SAME as your non pv numbers there is something wrong with the pv's.. it could possibly be the fact they are to skinny for the port and not reacting correctley. if you can change the jets around a LOT and make sure the piston area is sealing and also that the supply holes in the base are clean and open. do not run 927 in the motors as that may even cause them to stick right there on the dyno. klotz supertechniplate for alky is your best bet ( i dont know what oil your running now) if they are still not showing the same upper rpm numbers then they are either not opening up all the way from not being pressure'd correctly OR they are hanging down in the port and are to long or installed upside down. if your upper port number on the exhaust is a 197 there is a lot left in the motor running pv's. most dont see that. they are so used to fixed port motors that with huge exhausts, ( over 200d) falling on their faces. i have said before a pv motor can handle really high exhaust. my 535 is at a 201 but closed i think is a 190-192... the trinity 485 motor i had had a REALLY wide exhaust port playing with that casting is what lead me to figure out the issues witht he pv's hanging in the port. and the desire to redo the exhaust to something i personally wanted to try. that particular motor with real domes in it ran really hard on the top end. at the time i was wanting more of a dunner motor so wanted a lesser agressive exhaust. then after redoing the motor it made so much tq it was actually a real handful to ride on a 6 over. to me it wasnt that much fun being that violent. so into the lsr it went.. then to come out about 3 years later and has been in a box for 2 years or so?> i would love to see a cheeta with a much better blade design besides the trinity setup. the TSS will unfortunatley probably never happen although is a bad ass idea. a tps, rpm sensed cdi with pv control according to load and throttle position would be saweet i never eally gave up on this motor mostly due to not wanting to spend the money on a cub that needed pistons nearly every 6 months due to wear,.,. WHEUUU

round har you probably be in the 270, 280, 290, 300 main. id probably drop to a stock pilot and see what the motor wants. put the needle in one clip down ( needle one rich point up from middle clip position) and jet it to that. if you run long long times at WOT then stay in the 300+ range its going to get really hot and can cause a heat stroke seizure.. he he

i will answer this.. i am convinced that most builders have no clue what the valve actually does, what makes it work, and what to do to keep it from screwing up. and even how to port for one. the valves are not that wide at least not as wide as most "builders" like to make the ports, so that infact with vavles in place will cause the valve to hang down in an too wide port ( i have seen this from multiple fucked up cheeta's i have worked on from multiple differnt shops) then this causes to much exhaust to blow past the valve causing really crazy opening to no opening at all of the valve. so they remove the pv completely install port matched blockoffs and just make the best of it. in fact the trinity 485 i started with i decided was so screwed up i couldnt use it and started with a bare casting. i use a very differnt exhaust port shape that i came up with then later noticed in a yamaha factory ported roberts cylinder from an old practice bike further validating my thoughts. most of them are also ran with the wrong oil in the mix and absolutely no valve maintenance at all. infact every valve i have seen was pluged up, jacked up, broken, blown seals etc etc etc. all from bad maintenance and the wrong oil in the fuel mix. so yea all those motors ran like shit.. infact most number you see posted are very very similar to servals with low port timings does that seem at all relavent>?? tells me the valves are stuck down hanging up halfway through their travel or just not opening the same or even similar.. of course nobody thinks about this i think. because they just say its a bad design....

obviously you dont understand what the differnt port timings actually do??? the pv cheeta's seem slow because instead of a violent pipe HIT they just pull strong from a lower rpm and can be made to overrev and pull way harder than a normal 198; exahust can.. all i'm going to say.. what a joke.

oh my good ness really the powervalves BLOCK POWER?????????? are you retarded!!!!!! what makes a serval MAKE LOW END THE POWER BLOCKING LOW EXHAUST PORT????????? thats what i am gathering from your rediculous response..

this is a common problem. the stock cable or cables for the stock carbs dont have the pull distance ( inside the splitter) to open very much over a 30. mikuni DOES make a cable that is spec'd for 35 and also for 39-40mm carbs. they have the longer splitter in them, THEN you need to most times modify the stop on the thumb throttle OR you will need a longer adjuster at your twist throttle. AND the correct cable, the terry cable has a big long splitter in it to open i think up to 44's. this to me is really basic stuff when switching carbs.. of course if this was on a dyno at a well know shop why was this not checked?? the throttle not opening up all the way will show the wrong jetting for WOT because your not actually running on the main only.

that makes them kinda hard to weld and have real penetration. on the other hand.. that "show chrome powder" will not look like chrome. polished then sealed or the ceramic seems like a great idear. if you powder the cylinders they will also hold more heat in them.. i run alky on a 350 larger motor dosent mean thats when you need alky. if its a "drag bike" it should be on alky or your just leaving a lot on the table OR paying 28-20 bucks a gallon for high end race fuel... m of course just my opinion that 2nd bike looks saaweet!! the first one for this thread looks like its a single a-arm setup? so whats the story on the 2nd bike? where did those pipes go? where did that welded cyl motor end up?

dont buy those shit filters. few years ago they seemed ok but the last few sets i have been around have been rippig in the rubber and seem to not filter for shit. spend the extra 20.00 and buy real k+n. why not just go alky already.. id run the poo out that frame. when i started doing this there was a guy that ran an xluw lsr that was fully drilled like that. he rode wheelie through 4th gear and slammed it down at the end. it i believe is still around somewhere..

digatron. water temp, 2 egt's, rpm and a few other things if you really want.. if your dead set on monitoring your motor they actually data log also. koso i have seen have a battery and seem to fail. ( from what i saw) does the phone need service to actually link to all that stuff?? i mean if i had a good old phone and just used it for riding only that might be pretty sweet.. then i could just transfer the phone to another bike with ease. just a thought

it could be a 10 mill if it has the spacer in the head.. ask for reciepts from all the motor work. if he is a wealthy rich guy i cannot thing of to many at least around here that dosent keep every damn reciept they have.

perfect spot on property = lots of fun. just have your buddy's come over and have friend drag day's.. the 535 is going to need a GOOD setup. lower the bike completely not sure what shocks your running that can be shortened? and if your going to do this alot get a bar if you want.

its a cheeta...

we aint got time for that!