camatv

i have highly modded stock box setups and they are actually some of my favorite set ups. i personally dont like the "pods" on rider bikes.. rub on the frame. bounce around, rub and burn on most pipes... an alluminum adapter plate and fully sealed import grey, BMC clamp on filter and cut pretty much everything but the mounts out of the box they work great.. just my opinion. i think i need to work on an "ideas" book...

this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-FS-Ignition-Programmable-Dyna-DFS7-6P-Yamaha-YZF350-Banshee-1997-2006-/141422238188?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ed6c19ec&vxp=mtr plus this http://www.ebay.com/itm/DynaTek-FS-Curve-Maker-Programming-Kit-Dyna-all-ATV-/380376441549?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589033e2cd&vxp=mtr plus this http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=8C9C66CAB1164BB0970DC4BD9EBDC678 pretty ugly if you ask me.. and a laptop puter n u gots da bu bu bu bu bu buuuuuu

is it just an optical illusion or is there some weird shit sticking out the side of it?? special calling himself fat buhha ahahhaha

its a special size kinda.. if yours is not ripped in half. seal it with import grey.

damn

cometic top end gaskets, OEM clutch cover OR cometic AFM style,. OEM crank seals OR vertex crank seals ( if they sell them seperate?) the crank seals need to have the high speed internal setups in them. lots of junk out there. if its just a bone stock rebuild. the namura top end kits aren't to bad but for a little bit more the complete wiseco setups arent bad either. i dont know if they offer a full 350cc stock stroke kit like the strokers come in?

if a serval had any lower timings it would hardly even start... most of the cylinders have differnt timing layouts in them anyways. no differnt stroke, bore combo's are exactilly the same.. 400 casting ss 68mm bore is not a 130/198 a 10 mill 73mm bore is not a 130/198 the 421/68 is right out of the box for the most part. and also one of the reasons that particular setup is so popular , take out of box, clean up casting flaw's install. 100 hp wala. earlier ones had massive mismatched transfers. its just part of it. best way to do one is really get a bare casting, have it ported, have it plated, then do a plating cleanup. but most people dont want to sped the extra say 200-300 bucks that entails..

dm might be faster but i imagine on pump gas would be a bear to keep cool..

the 2-1 dynoport from back in the days barely made more power than the oem stock pipes... if you want off idle to 4000 rpm power thats asking a lot from a motor designed to make power in the 7500 and up range.. it can be done but i feel would take a custom pipe made for that power range. and proper porting to support it.. if you want low end tq and top end power its going to take a pv setup with a lot of compression. should rev to 9500 and make good power if built right.. WOW 2010 on this one!!!!!

hahaha... t6 with a real TQ port job is really fun bike..

as i was guiding DDQ down the path of enlightenment ( as far as wiring goes) we were also pondering the effects of shittlyie designed clutch baskets and how the failures are never mentioned or blamed on things other than the true reason for the failure, on the net ( but 3 differnt brand baskets had a massive failure that i know of at the hq ride.. even though all you hear about is how i never have a problem with :shit design basket: ) . the words that we utterd in our meditations in the exlemperatory camping conditions, we where faced with creeped their way into oldskools sub conscious mind he knew he was in for a wonderful adventure into the internals of his motor within 12-24 hours.... and no those were not pj's.. and no i am not cameron from redline... ( the 2 most common questions i am asked at the hq rides) i think my 485 ( only 4 mill in the "pack from what i understand) seemed to do pretty good for the weight it was hauling around... plus its a 4 year old turd motor that i literally spent the last 3 days putting back together from left over parts from 3 other motors HOPING to get a chance to run the legendary windy city john... imagine my disapointment when i heard he didnt bring the drag bike. but oh well.. i didnt know i could call other builders and get tips on how to build a motor. damn i've been doing it wrong all these years!!!! ( I AM JOKING ABOUT THIS PLEASE DONT TAKE IT THE WRONG WAY>> ) redline is a great guy and a great shop to deal with he obviously will go out of his way to make a motor really do what it can do. and from the stories i have heard about the super cubs seemed like he wasnt going to release any sub par setups. and i think that speaks a lot for a shop in the design stages of a relatively new motor setup that as far as up to now really hasnt been a great performer.. that being said i also feel that other builders and shops can and will do the same for you.. but it seems maybe redline is willing to do whatever it takes.. great job!! i would LOVE to be able to take a 521 cheeta and have the SAME EXACT SETUP FOUND TO BE LEGENDARY in the supercub and compare them side by side. i do not have the fundage to do this. but i really think it would settle the so called shit design of the cheeta. even though internally besides the larger intake and the much better design of the head pattern they are the same..

if you do a google search you can find a few old articles.

cpi's DO work on stock motors with the exhaust port simply matched. good set of reeds and a simple bump in compression they will suprise you general riding around.. i agree one of my fav pipes overall is the trinity newer design. i mean really. stainless steel ( no rust EVER) dual o-ring sealing at pipe connectors on BOTH head pipe and stinger ( so NO stupid bulky pipe sealers or extra bullshit) silencers are very well made and have custom hangers ( SO if your chassis is a lil tweaked you can still get them lined up and looking ok..) BUT they do not seem to work very well on lower or stock cc motors. i never really played with porting numbers on a 350cc motor but they really come alive and perform on 4 mills and 421 big bore, 400 all bore motors. i really think thats what they were designed for... they seem to respond well to a big pulse and more fuel mix from larger CC. compared to other pipes JUST on those facts, quality of build, incorporated design features they are a deff top 5 pipe. i have had and ported specific motors to t5 t6 ( yee ha) t4 t3's modded t3's, cpi big bore and small bore, shear big bore small bore small flange, trinity, SLP,( sweet) PSI ( meh) bills old school,( a VERY suprising pipe) pt mids ( bleh) trinity custom t4, FMF fatty and FMF SST ( much better than fatty) stock. ( yes you can port to stock pipe) LRD ( bleh) pro circuit ( on a bike built by paul turner after removing the pt mids it had MORE low end, and waYYY more top end bike gained 5-6 lengths on the drag strip ) snipers ( nice IF you can get them and afford them) power pro's, custm lrd,s ( still bleh) i havent had a chance to play with a set of DMC and thats really the only other pipe id ever want to have some experience with the single to one exhaust is one of the best sounding ever. just my opinion based on experience. here is something to ponder. if you look at graphs you will see this trend. most pipes will boost power in about a 1500-2500 rpm range. so if the pipe is set to boost at 6500rpm it will be in that range outside of that range and its dead.. same for any other pipe out there.. a larger cc motor will naturally have more power all around ( at least it should) and the natural power output of the motor will be what carriers it to the pipes designed rpm boost.. and yes its boosting or turboing the cylinders ( usually around 6-8 PSI.) they do it naturally with sound.

ok update on the slp's they are bad ass. we ran them on a t rex 400 and they make TQ they dont rev much at all. but the bike would just power wheelie across a dune. that is shift into 3rd low in the rpm and just punch the throttle, no clutching and it would just go buuuuurrrrrrrAAAAPPP and yank the front off the face of the dune. on a +4. it hardley used any fuel because it didnt need to rev to get around.. NICE they have a very distinct sound. very very quiet but get on it and it has a nice bark to them..

a friend of mine and i just redid an 87 we put 98ish full white plastics on it and used chrome plated fender supports...

i personally really like the trinity banshee intakes, and they also made a nice billet stator timing plate as well as a few other nicer items. but in all reality with so much other stuff out there i haven't bought anything from them directly for years. i can see that a shop would want to concentrate on sxs stuff right now. as far as the offroad world its the BBD ( Bigger Better Deal) and my lil 4 mill 485 seemed to run just fine at ls hq. i'm pretty sure it had more than 96 hp.. but maybe not...? i guess i'm tired of hearing how crappy that particular motor is when to me they seem to do just fine. i'm sure if redline took one and would take the same amount of time on it as some of the other motors they post up in dyno section, it would result in a very stout motor

it needs to be yellow flake clear with candy yellow over flake silver...

damn i need to get my ass in gear!!! a smooth strip is SO much fun to run on

i read a few pages back about grading the strip we run at i'm all for that. i have done it a few times but i usually smooth about 600+ ft. my bike is geared to go farther than the 250ft most people run out there so i like to go a lil faster... BUT last time i did it cubs were droping like flies because they are not used to going faster than 69mph... BUT the 4 strokes are dead after 300ft anyways. i put the 485 back together but dont expect a lot out of it. 535 is dead. and i'm working on having a rider bike right now. but its not looking good. plan to be there about late wensday or early thursday morning. SOOOO if all my junk blows up and someone want's me to drive a skid around i volunteer

an mx bike with about 55ft lbs of tq is a great agressive trail bike. a stock cyl 4 mill built for tq or a serval with minimal porting with slp's should get you a happy motor. and ofcourtse everything that goes along with that kind of build. if you bought a stocker you are probably better off finding something thats already close to what you want. OR budget about 3500-7500 for the build up

i have had all kinds of problems with intake gaskets.. i now just run ultra grey ( says right on the package solvent, chemical gas resistant. ) for years and years. only about 7 bucks a tube. and easier to clean than the 1211 crap no gaskets at all seal it up slap it together and ride. just dont go overboard and use 1/2 a tube a side. it takes just a nice thin coat just like cases.

measure the ball joints and call stellar they have replacements if its a drop in ball joint ( NOT REAMED) for around 25-30 bucks. i think the thread that goes in the arm is 16mm or 17mm i cannot rember for sure

about 6500 bucks

the shift forks are chrome plated.. the lil pins that go in the drums usually get worn down and start making slop in the fit up. . i have an override with a fully polished drum. BUT this pipes thing is really neato. i just bought a set of crusty ole CT's that could benifit from this treatment..

i reserved site 542 who is my neighbors??