camatv

if you drill them you will have to get stock tubes to go back to gas..

wow looks like he sprayed some carb cleaner down it to remove the factory black paint and then touched up the intake a lil bit.. hope you didnt pay much for that one.

nice bike where did you find those pipes.

the big bore cpi's will run great on a stock cylinder'd bike the biggest dirrefference you will see is the launch and overrev the cpi's will be easier to launch if the rider is a lil skiddish BUT they usually wont overrev like the shear'rs do. the shear's will not launch super hard with some heat in them ( bogg). BUT they do perform great. i would stick with the bigger versions of the cpi's as far as cpi pipes go i never liked the small bore's they worked ok but just didnt get it done like the big bore's or the shearer's on top. both shear's and cpis like just about the same porting. as far as what i have found on my bikes that is..

oh also unscrew the plug caps from the wires if the end of the plug wire has rust you might need to clip it back a lil and get a good connection in there or replace the caps with some NGK type?

if its poping and boggin on TOP the mian is too small OR your carbs are not getting enough fuel. might check your fuel lines and remove the needles and seats and make sure there are no bugs or grass or do do in there. also check the flow out of the pet cock?

what the heck is wrong with this guy ??? try this what main does it run good on? 280's? then put in a 290 OR a 300 and drop the needle down one clip at least. if its in the middle if its NOT in the middle PUT it in the middle and start all over.. are you SURE the carbs are synched AND the slides are in the right spots. plugs gapped right? .20 or so? if the trans tunnels and the intake area are baby butt polished smooth they can cause SOME jetting issues with out measure ments and having the cylinders in my hands i cannot tell you if the trans and exhaust are messed up.. try to jet it out you may also have a case air leak or something?

oh wow thats a good one so the bike just DIED?? man must be the PORTING!! did you loose spark? did you run it out of gas? did your coil take a dump did your stator pick up fall off? is your stator pick up set right? is the head messed up? did you break a reed from the "sputter'n? are your carbs synched right? are the needles in the same posiston.?

the packing AND the center pipes WOW???

did i miss something?

the compression is a lil low.. stock should have around 120ish .. are the plugs WET do they smell like fuel..

how bought a real deal banshee not some turd bullshit.. lsr framed xluw single a-arm front 485cc cheeta powervalved 4 mill 41/44 alky lectrons, 1-5 n down trans lockup jj+a axle fiberglass plastics ESR 480 inframe drag pipes fitted to the frame with center mount beneath seat silencers, and yes its actually fast.. i'd post pics but its hard to do it on this site when i cannot even post a picture of my pinky finger with 1 meg resolution.. you throw me an email i'll send you some pictures.. i live in nickerson kansas about 50 minutes from wichita..

naw i wont back to the stock type rear end.

looking for a decent stock length swingarm. i have a +4 lagers and would like to be able to do more wheelies.. its my trail bike now just HAS to be a round housing carrier and MUST measure 87mm inside for my carrier to fit. just let me know what you have i'd even consider a +1 or +2 but NO - arms please..

offers? and no i wont take 100 shipped..

the pics are not working..

replied,, hes just interested in the pipe clamps if he buys them i'll knock 35.00 off the price of the pipes or i will take the clamps off and knock the price down anyways

man gotta love the internet.. here's an idear. CALL VITO"S! CALL ATHENA ask the people responsible for the products to explain them ask them for port timings i am sure that neither cylinder has any port work maybe nothing at all and they are as cast like an unported cub, stock cylinder, or similar cast or billet cylinder in its cheapest form.. here is what i would LOVE to see: a cylinder test!! back in the days we used to see pipe shootouts! (rember those) i think its time for a cylinder shoot out. take an 06 banshee install a 4 mill hot rods crank and start swaping cylinders right out of the box rate them on ease of install, build quality, construction material, port map them, and use stock carbs, and say fmf sst pipes or t-5's and +4 timing the arverage mods that the average rider would have.. and either the head they came with or a general cool head like a NOSS and the average domes ( gas with like 165 comp?) and then DYNO them all and see what they lay down number wise and also a ride comparison including dunes and trails, and an mx type track. with small jumps and something that would show the rideablility of them.. i wish i could get into more product testing..

got a set of toomey's chromee is in ok shape they could probably be cleaned up a lil bit more. both mounts on the main pipes need welded one silencer has a small dent in it onthe bottom, the main pipes have NO dents or dings in them, overall they are a good set for a trail bike or MX bike, NO they are not PERFECT please dont pm me asking that, or offering me 100.00 for them. oh also comes with billet pipe clamps i need 250 + shipping located in nickerson kansas 45 minutes from wichita. pm me for pictures, or to call me. they are too big to post.

well dang.. what about the tq curve.. i would rather trade the higher exhaust for the smaller increase in rpm,s but thats just me.. what about the t-5's what tuned length do they support. never really did any "builder math" like that. what other measurements do you need to have? the t-6's have a larger chamber, and a lot longer length. i knew by looking at them that they would be a better midrange pipe. and in all honestey power wise, i'd actually rather have the fmf sst's than the t-5's BUT the t-5's DO sound a lot better...

the porting in my trail bike should support the t-6's better. at least i would think so if the t-6's had more overrev, or didnt "fall off the pipe" then i think they would be better than the t-5's maybe t-7's they might fix that flaw?? that total lack of any overrev at all is what makes them stink. they feel like stockers on top.. just puh nothing there.. t-5's have some overrev but not much. and to answer what do i mean by overrev. a pipes makes power up to a certain rpm. then they start to fall off thats the feeling that the pipe stops pulling on top some pipes the fall off is more pronuced and on others its barely ever felt. the best overreving pipes i have personally had were the SST"S they fell off but not by much, and would support a longer shift range. . the second best were the pro circuits. NOW to also answer any confusion to what i said. DRAG pipes like the cpi's and shear's MAKE HP up and over the normal overrev point of trail pipes. thats what makes them drag pipes they make power between 8000- 10,500 rpm's MOST trail pipes make hp in the 5800-7900/ 8000 rpm range then go into overrev. if you have a dyno graph you can see it.. after the peak HP number look at the graph you will see a gradual decline in hp but the bike may rev out another 1200 rpm's or more. the t-6's i bet if dyno'd drop of very very hard and fast...

dibs on the dm haha i wont have any money for them for about 3 months but if you can wait i'll get it and since i said DIBBS!! that means its MINE! wish i had the cashola i'd love to get it and the pipes..

ok i am probably one of only a few handfull that have had BOTH pipes on the same bike/ built motor. it is a 350cc stock cylinder'd +4 timing dyna CDI 30mm pwm's v-3's very agressive trail port, 130 transfers, 195 exhaust. pods, 20cc shelf dome'd cool head, 15/ 38 gearing, its my trail put put bike and this is what i think: the t-5's seemed to have a lil stronger bottom end and had decent overrev but not that great. power was pretty seamless through out riding mostly trails and dunes/ trails. the t-6's i felt fit better look better and have much larger and longer chambers. the front curve is very nicely built and the chrome is great. the silencers have 2 mounts instead of only one like the t=5's and they cleared the carberators better.. overall i think the t-6's are built much better and are an improvement DESIGN wise over the t-5's for sure... power wise. the t-6's definatelly have a much stronger hit and midrange revv power is much stronger, acelleration wise, when on the pipe seems stronger but shorter time wise. the are more "zinngy" like a cpi on a ported motor BUT it really matter'd what gear i was in they seemed to fall off the pipe easier and didnt have really anything for overrev they didnt fall off on power on top they just seemed to flat fall off completely. and just wouldnt support any overrev at all. i am going to try some more jetting changes and maybe drop a gear on the front as my gearing was really tall also. the pipe "ping" is much more pronounced on the t-6's also. if i could get on a dyno i'd love to compare the pipes back to back i still have the t-5's if i was to describe the power it'd be like this ( dont laugh now) t-5's: burr BINGGGG uhhhhhhhhhherrrr....puh t-6's burrrrrr BINGOBANGO puhhh.......u.....h...nope

did DOMA ever make banshee pipes??