Jump to content

flatbedin

Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • My Banshee (optional)
    2001 banshee stock stroke / no porting 2 stage reeds milled head trinity stage IV pipes K&N with proflow 300 mains middle clip 27.5 pilots air screws 2 turns out +4 timing

flatbedin's Achievements

HQ Noob

HQ Noob (1/5)

0

Reputation

  1. I'm looking for some jetting help with my 01 banshee. Setup is stock stroke, aggressive dune port, rechambered stock head, v-force, stock carbs, pro flo K&N, trinty pipes, +6 timing, 140 lbs comp, 850ft in GA. I installed the ported cylinders back in the winter and did a plug chop with 320 mains and plugs looked perfect. I've been running stock pilots with the clip in the 2nd groove from the top with a small washer under it. Since it's gotten warmer here I've noticed a bogg/sputter at WOT before the powerband hits. For example, when riding dirt roads in 5th and 6th and after slowing down below the powerband, I can pin it wide open and it starts bulding speed. It actually pulls decent before the powerband, but just before it hits I can actually feel it loose power and slow some. Sometimes it will sputter a couple of times, then it hits pulls good and hard and cleanly. My thinking has been lean the mains some for warmer weather 60-70F vs 30-40F, so I installed 300 mains and it feels like it picked up some on the top end but the bog it still there. I've have the clip in every groove on the freakin needles and I know when I'm too far rich and lean at part throttle but the bog is still there. I tried some 27.5 pilots for the heck of it because I know all these carb circuits overlap some what, but its still boggin. I've installed new NGK plug boots, checked flywheel gap 0.018, closed spark plu gap to 0.025, and the bog is still there. I used to run 280 mains before the ported cylinders, but I'm afraid of going too lean with the portiing. Could 280s be safe with my setup? Is this bog from being too rich, too lean, ignition? Help please.
  2. My left carb started pouring gas out of the overflow this weekend, so I pulled the bowl and checked for trash on the tip and seat. Carb was spotless. Removed the seat and checked the o-ring. Reassembled and it still leaked. 2nd time disassembling I noticed a groove (ring) worn around the rubber needle seat. These needles and seats are about a year old. Went thru my carb parts and found the best needle out of 4 used ones (all Moose). The leak stopped, but why are these needles only lasting a year? The quad sits most of the summer and is ridden most weekends in the winter. I never drain the bowls. Should I? Could it be something in the gas not compatible with the rubber needle? Something in the 927 oil? Can I get better quality needle?
  3. Here's the deal, I live in Ga and we ride a lot in the fall and winter months. I would like to get a port job before the riding season starts. Seems like all the big names on here have long lead times 3 to 5 weeks. I called Lakes Motorsports and they said about a week. I'm needing a stock stroke dune/play type port. Has anyone one here used Lakes for port work? How were the results? Guy at Lakes said about 65hp with his port work. What about those viper sleeves on their website? Anybody used those?
  4. Maybe over oiling shouldn't be a problem but it is for me. The last time I cleaned and oiled the filter, I put plenty of oil on it and let it sit overnight. Quad ran like crap, so that's when I decided to try a new filter (pre oiled). Maybe I'm not running the right filter. It's a K&N YA-3502. Seems like it's borderline on having enough flow for my banshee. Is there a larger higher flow filter that will work?
  5. OK, I want to try a foam filter. Which one works best? Do most run an outerwear with the foam filter? Will the oil from the foam filter clog up the outerwear?
  6. This K&N was brand new before we rode this past Sat., preoiled from K&N. In the past, I have found it very easy to over oil these filters. If I put more than just enough oil to turn it red, then the quad runs like crap (won't rev). I do have the stock crossover (no boost bottle). Just to clarify this is not a pod filter setup. It's a single filter clamped to a pro flow adapter. I've been wondering what you sand guys use for filters. Maybe the K&Ns that seem to not pass thru any dirt are all pod setups. Are they finer mesh material? Is is possible to use extra oil on them and not choke the engine? Seems like I remember reading on a diesel forum a while back about someone, who had switched to a K&N filter, saying the silicon (dirt) content in their oil analysis had gone way up.
  7. I'm running a K&N with an outerwear and no lid on the airbox and I keep noticing dirt/dust in the intake chamber. I bought a new K&N before we rode this past weekend and tonight I see dirt in the intake again. I've resealed the pro flow adapter with new o-ring and silicone and have also resealed the plastic chamber where it splits. The intake boots are good and the clamps are tight. Is this dirt passing thru the filter? I could put a lid on the box I guess, but part of the box is melted away next to the pro flow adapter where the trinity pipes got too close to the plastic. This means the lid wouldn't seal the top completely anyway. What about a foam filter? Are they better at not letting dirt thru? How much difference is there in power between a lid vs. no lid and a K&N vs. foam? Finally, what is the best filter setup for wet muddy trials in the winter and dry dusty trails in the summer? Lots of questions. Thanks in advance.
  8. Does FMF make a pipe that is comparable to the pro circuits? Also, what about having my cylinders ported and keeping the trinity pipes? Can the cylinders be ported to improve low end with my current setup? I'm having trouble deciding between pipes or porting. I can't afford to do both at the same time. Thanks for the replies.
  9. The head is a modified stock head that is sold my Mull Engineering. I think it is equivalent to 20cc domes. No porting. 93 octane 32:1 927 oil. Where is the best place to purchase the pro circuits?
  10. I'm looking for suggestions on improving the low end power of my current setup. The current mods are recent top end, Mull Engineering head, 2 stage reeds, +4 timing, trinity stage IV exhaust, K&N with proflow, 300 mains, middle clip, 27.5 pilots, 2 turns out on air screws. I'm also running 22" mudlights with 13/44 gearing. The 4 wheeler runs good and I feel like it is jetted pretty close. We do a lot of riding at Durhamtown Plantation in Ga., which is a mix of wooded open and tight trials, mx tracks, drag strip, flat track, etc. With my current setup it seems like I am always waiting on the powerband to come in, especially on the tracks. Once on the powerband it pulls good, but a lot of times it seems like I am between gears. I'm either revving the crap out of it or I'm waiting for it to get on the pipe. I've read a lot of recommendations on here for pro circuit exhaust for decent low end. I understand this machine is a 2 stroke and it's gonna be high strung, but will the pro circuits make a noticeable difference? The trinity pipes were on the 4 wheeler when I bought it and it seems like they are more of a top end pipe. I'm looking for opinions/experience before I buy a new exhaust system. Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...