camatv

round housing ( roundhouse) axle adjustments are wayy better than stock. anything is better than stock banshee style i dont even have ONE banshee with a stock swingarm on it. its the first thing to go. they suck they are hard to adjust, they bend they tweak they dont go straight the bolts fall off/ out/ sieze they are just absolute trash save your money on a boost bottle and get a real swingarm.. oh and metal tech's are nice.. so are " lonestar, and my fav's was the RPM swing arm really inovative manufaturing design very very strong..

there is a reason the lonestar, cascade stuff is so expensive. its the best .

OEM ONLY if you need more light spend the 20 bucks for those neato blue light bulbs and if thats not enough buy a 4 stroke with a battery in it and just ride your smoker during the day..! their flywheels are trash also

get the wife/ girlfriend/ other person in the group a SXS and load all your stuff in the bed.. just hope it dosent flip over..

cut the regulator out and they get a whole lot brighter!!! ( for just a second then they blow up..) try pluging it back in..

depends on the porting the higher the exhaust the lower the comp..

std override, duneable override, EXTREME override.. WOW i think the problem is the extreme!! any time extreme or high quality or SUPER is placed in a description it most of the time breaks. ( superstition??) i have a duneable override had no issues with it at all BUT i also have experience with std overrides and know how to ride them and thats mostly how i treated the duneable but i dont have as much worry to let some one check it out. its also a nice trans to "learn" on. it takes a while to break your slap shifting clutch hands habbit. not sure what the deal is with the extreme. but i think i'll just stick with my std's and one duneable. in my 2 full drag bikes the 1-5's std override i have has had NO issues since i went to 1-5 n down and its been an excellent transmission.. no problems at all and even a few OOPS! out there on the dunes and still shifting good. its NOT a wcr tho the company that cut it is out of business now ( shame its a beautiful trans, polished drum.. shifted excellent from day one) i am sure WCR will get it figured out and fixed.

why would you mix an engine oil with a transmission oil? what you basically have in a banshee is a closed transmission with a highly slipped wet clutch and a manual transmission. if you change it a LOT the atf works ok i usually burn it up within a day or so of hard high heat dune riding. as soon as it changes color change it! the 10-30 4T castrol motorcycle/ atv specific oils i feel are a lil better as far as longevity and seem to work well with clutch heat. also should be available at any parts store that carries castrol ( oreilly's, auto zone) if you don see it ASK for it or even special order it. my local reilly's stocks it for me and it runs about 3.50 - 3.99 a qt. but lasts a lot longer than the 2.50 atf.. i have ran the atf in my bigger bikes but have since switched back to the 10/30,40 castrol.. some gear oils are comapable with wet clutch but i cannot rember which ones.

try xcalling shear. matt should have db ratings on the pipes the packing and porting also has to do with db's

just to let you guys know i stoped reading this post a few post's back. i just wanted to say that the more you increase the lower ends compression ratio ( welding transfers, cuttin g the trans tunnels up) the LESS tq or lower end midrange ( acceleration) the motor will make IT will make a nice big peak hp number but peak hp in a very short range wont get you down the track fast it will make a nice dyno number that you can brag about but if your a lil on the heavy side and its in a stock frame the motor will be a lil boggy and be very peaky and possibly harder to ride.. you can get some of this back through alky, lower rpm pipes ( cpi's) and less rotating weight.. ( pistons, crank, flywheel, axle, lightweight frame stuff, NOS) if it is really a 189 * exhaust its going to be a turd.. i think 189 is like stock with the sleeve hanging down in the port i think ( i dont rember ) if you just clean the sleeve out and make the port flat with the roof you end up with about a 192* which even with stock transfers runs ok., i would consider a 196* exhaust and a CERTAIN exhaust shape to be more to your liking and better suited to those "high rev" pipes.. the square style port in my opinion just plain SUCKS!! it causes unneded piston wear and creats a very flat peaky power band. the more d shaped or oval shaped it is the more it will pull.. just my experience with porting over the last 10 years.. i have recently been running a 198* exhaust duration on even the trail bikes. i know its crazy to some but the more i experiment with the actual shape of the exhaust the more linear i have been able to get the power band.. you have to rember the engine/ frame set up makes more difference to a bike than the actual porting.. BUT its all a "package"

at least he didnt get aressted this time!! quaddad if you ever need anything let me know that ole rat rod banshee was a fun poop'n bike. i'm glad we got to all pitch in and get a bike running for you to ride around. now we all just need to find lil peanut helmets!!

gigot has a turbo saber. its a triple injector set up. can run on gas, alky or nitro mix.. the extra injectors are in the back of the intake charge set up.. kevin is a really cool dude thinks a lot out of the box and isnt afraid to try cool new shizzle.. most people dont know this but a LOT of area builders and other high name shops use his tuning, and building, exhaust fab talents to help them along. ( but dont give him the credit he deserve's) i could hang out with him for hours talking idear's and crazy shizzle. for instance. how about a nito injected bike that ONLY runs nitro at over 90% throttle... could it work? twin turbo 10 mill 535? ( so you can use pipes better suited for turbo's?) he also turbo's snomobiles.. garden city isnt that far from colorado!

if its a real PV motor the 14's wont hurt it a bit the pv's will rip those paddles right out of the hole OR a set of 12 extreme's, haulers or 13 pd haulers extreme's. i am running 14 over arm and 12 paddle hauler it will lift at times but its controlable. ( on my 485 cheeta)

because they cannot fucking read!!! i'm guessing that this is /was the motor that was in the blue bike you have been trying to sell for long time? if i had the money i'd buy it all from you to play with unless you might be interested in a 4 mill 480cc power valved cheeta?

yes the honda's use a 2 wire regulator and the yamaha's use a case grounded single wire. thats why the ground is mounted through the regulator on the oem wiring.. you should probably be able to just run a jumper to the ground when you mount it. just make sure you use it straight to the body of the regualtor. if no lights wont need it!

i just sold one and i have a +14 over on my cr500 trike from metal tech they build very nice stuff its got all the gussets you would need and its nice. nice welds nice designs. you wont be unhappy with it. i have had the one i'm running now for about 5 years and had no issue's with it at all.

sent pm

hey let me know if you want to try and get that deal figured out my comp kept turning off let me know if you can get me some pics of the system also?

how much is the plating gonna cost? are you dooing the pipes and the stinger tubes maybe polishing the silencer body's? i'd love to see pics!

thats why its good to keep a comunity i bet you look around enough on here someone lives close and might make a lil road trip for ya.. lately i have been using craigslist for parts. people come and look at it and either buy it or not dosent matter to me no fee's no shipping no bull.

cool braket BUT the regulator case MUST be grounded to the frame OR have a ground coming off of it. if not it wont work right and you will pop bulbs over idle.. be carefull with the powdercoating.

in my OPINION!!!! dont have trinity port the cylinder at all!! the PV motors to be set up right need to have porting done that works WITH the powervalve. i havent seen this yet and did it to mine it has tremendous power its off idle tq is smooth and strong and pulls all the way to the top with out issue's.. most bikes this motor if done right will over power the chassis with ease. the gas engine will be in the 90'S+ hp BUT its not a peaky hp it will make 80+ from around 7500 up. and thats a LOT of HP. the top cases need trenched BUT they also should be filled and matched to the cylinder the cheeta's dont have much for support from the stock case. i would get the largest domes in the "kit" and also try and talk to tim, nate mccoy, or i prefer the entire head/ dome set up that rk does. you will also love the simple o-rings in the cylinder design ( instead of falling out the head when you put it on).. you should run at least 35mm carbs but 38's work great also. rember its got PV's for a reason. the pv maintenance is kinda critical you will have to pull them off from time to time and clean them out. so they will work right. this set up is one of my favorites..

he says in the description its a 68mm bore cub thats not a 535 even the 74.5mm is larger than the 535.. if its a cub and its that big its a super cub.

which bills pipes do you have? i have some fmf's that i would consider tradeing for the bill's./ if you had a pic of them that will tell me what style they are.

your basically paying for the needle.. its a special needle.