camatv

keep the updates coming it'd be nice too see one of these actually make it.

i have a set ungroved sitting in the garage. used to just grove them myself. any tire shop should be able to get them i was buying them from my local tire shop and doing my own grove in them. i prefer'd my grove over the jt/ std triangle grove. they last FOREVER but ave very hard sidewall. i like the kenda klaw better anymore...

i have a gold chain.. its really LONG

i'd look at it like this... 1970's round slide 1980's flat slide modern d slide/ short body flat slide.. sooooo hmm? a 44mm round slide carb makes about the same power as a 38mm flat/ d slide.. the d/ flat slide carbs wil usually have better response. BUT the cheesy round slides i see from snomo's on super budget builds cause cheap ass'es get them off ebay for about 45.00.. for the pair.. as most know i prefer the lectons.. gas and alky.

good luck.. you have dirt tires.. i bet if you spin balance them you will notice that they wobble just a lil bit if the vibration is REALLY bad you might have some other problem.

buy/ download / steal the manual! oh there is a secret switch under the seat that fixes it!!

kawasaki h-2 pistons but they dont have the windows cut in them.. wossner has an h-2 piston available. i'm going to try a set next time.

might trade for something i can use//..

poop!!

fmf FATTY"s! ARE A GREAT PIPE the older gold series dont run as good but are fun the sst's i liked a lil better because of the overrev.. there are a lot of different pipes out there and lots of them make good power but overall i'd rate the fatty's as one of he better pipes.. BUT as stated the finish is absolutely junk.. on a side not thats the nicest looking desert tank i have ever seen love that graphic!! i have a big blue tank and didnt know what to do with it..

best way to fix rusty pipes guaranteed to work like a charm: sell them on ebay and buy some new ones!! i have used a wire wheel on a benchop grinder and just took my time works well.

classis banshee hq here.. the trinity's on the 421cc stock cylinder i have absolutely don't have a narrow powerband.. i'd take the pc's over any 2-1 pipe.. i also like a broad powerband over a peaky one... but in all reality most banshee's only operate and build power over a 2-3000 rpm range.. nothing till 6500+ to around 9500 oh well i'd still ride it!!

i looked at the other video's and i just wanted to add one thing the vid of the rich bike with fmf's its obviously rich even when you start it up. also when the carb is pulled apart its missing the small brass or copper washer under the main jet. that seals the dump tube off from the fuel chanber and also holds the dump tube in place that bike with out the washer is runing the risk of jetting changes if the carbs ever heat up and also the dump tube lifting out of the carb.. just letting you know.. that shear pipe looks neato. if it using the big bore larger silencer and larger stinger tube migh be a fun pipe everyone knows the shear is a major top end pipe that really stinks on low end its for a purpose! the 2-1's sound NOTHING like a 250r they are a twin and have their own very distinct sound and to me sound amazing!. i dont know what the pipe sounds like but i think it has potential.. i would try a 130* 195* and raise the exhaust a degree at a time and see what it does. also alky? 36mm carbs.. try and fit a dome that works well in the mid top department OR where ever the pipe lacks.. sounds like a fun pipe to play with..

i wouldnt compare dynoport pipes to anything but STOCK.. pro circuits with a real exhasut like around 198* and 128* transfers hae something a lot of other trail pipes DONT overrev!! they will hold rpm's far longer after the HP peak.. and sometime not having to shift at the end is what makes it all worth it.. i just bought a bike with a 421cc stock cylinder motor in it it has trinity inframe pipes and honestly they run really good. BUT the bike has hours of dyno time and custom mapped ignition, it made around 80hp and 50ft+ of tq... ( more tq that a 4 poke HA) its fun to ride but almost too fast.. its kinda hard to jump the acceleration is almost too quick in the hands of a "pro rider" i think it could be very lethal. but they would have to have a LOT of stamina.. as far as betting a guy that you can race him if you have any doubts better use extra money..

cal we can throw the lrd's i have on your bike after its done and give them a shot they will fit the stock frame with a rear hanger thats longer.. and yes i have a hanger.

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if your building to win money and you consider yourself a professional weekend racer and you have the cash to spend on it why not buy a billet.. in a std override i LIKE that the shift forks are a weak link. i think the drum, or the shift shafts would be next adn i think that just might eat up the gears if those bent or broke ( YIKES) i will always use a n down 1-5 std OR duneable trans. i like the std drag trans. i have messed up more than once on it and its still shifting fine BUT i also have thicker dogs on mine.. i had a LOT of problems trashing 2nd gear in my 10 mill i went to a 1-5 NO issue's anymore. if you dont think you need a 1-5 YOU may need to be tought HOW to use one. rember its an override you can shift it at any time. and if the gearing you like just wont pull a 2nd gear launch and 2nd almost feels a lil to short with the gearing the motor will pull. you need a 1-5 n down. i wouldnt use a 1-5 std neutral they CAN jump into gear. and in my opinion is a lil dangerous compared to the n down trans.. plus its SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to just shift down after the run and shift up one time and drive back.

yep i think thats your problem is that the dumps are not big enough you need around a 120 -125 main drill and dump. also need a powerjet the carbs DO have a power jet on them? i would also go with the cutting the one float off but you may need to make sure the float will still shut of the fuel with the alky you are using. 421's with some porting will SUCK up about as much fuel as you can give them escpecially with mikuni's/ you'd probably have to pump both mik's and keihn's. the lectrons are a lil better in the fuel department.. AND easier to jet.. you want to have more than enough fuel for the motor urn your pj's ALL the way out OR at least 4-5? turns out if they are clippards. just not to far some of them will turn out and fall out might check that also. gap the plugs at .18 and start with a b8 bla bla bla i prefer the b8eix myself. the mikuni's are VERY prone to run out of fuel on a long run just make sure you set up the lower end as lean as you can that will keep more fuel in the bowls on the run. pig rich and blowing alky out the pipes is NOT ok.. is the alky NEW!!! not that stuff your buddy had in the back garage?

got a blue powdercoated lonestar swingarm stock linkage round carrier NO carrier and NO i dont have one. it has the needle bearings in it. blue in color with a HUGE custom skid plate. can email pics. this is NOT a knock off or a cheapo so please dont send me pm's saying you can buy one off ebay new for 125.00 ok? 350+ shipping.. or send me an offer.. will trade for some shear same side 350cc pipes handconed?

like description says will sell set for 200 + shipping. has petcock all bolt holes in great shape no big scratches used very little. was on a lonestar outlaw chassis.. pics available.

got a set of out frame drag pipes i believe they are STE or UNSTAMPED cpi's they look a LOT like cpi's they are small bore small flange. and are chrome they are in great shape small ding on the top of one the chrome is peeling a lil bit on the lower turns but not bad. the silencers are NOT chrome they are silver. i need 300 +shipping for them. probably be 350 shipped i'd imagine. live in central kansas so if your close i'd meet ya. OR can take them to the dunes in oklahoma.. can email pics but if your a tire kicker or lowballer PLEASE dont waste my time... not looking to trade for anything.

did someone say buttershots!!! if there is at least a half bottle of that lying around that i can "borrow" i'll be there !! andy come on out!! one of these days we should actually meet and say hey to each other! i might try and plan a weekend and bring the camper i may need a spot OR i may just plan on a week of it. depends on the weather.. spurdy i did the ole "coals unda the seat" thing at the lake the other night fell asleep in the chair fishing.. oh and probably drank a few too many beers..

i'd just buy a cover also. get on ebay and get one for 25 bucks or so..

i'd split the whole motor.. gear welded, or clutch sleeve wasnt lubed when assembled and clutch assembly is all stuf togeter.. i'd say probably the gear is welded on the trans and its trying to engage 2 gears at the same time like 6th and 2nd.. buy a trans andfull gasket set, seal set, split the whole motor and go through it..

if the o-ring is on the stud and its against threads it wont seal.. the o-rings on the studs needs to be on the flat surface of the stud.. NEW acorn nuts, and the correct washers should fix it.. and yes as the instructins state use grease, or vasoline to hold the o-rings in place you prbably cannot use too mcuh on them. use yamabond OR import GREY sealers.. if it still leaks.. ( non hardening) if it still leaks after that well sell it and buy a NEW head problem solved!