camatv

the cub is the budget friendly cheeta... if there is no budget really the cheeta is a much better choice.. all the low end of a serval and the top end of a cub with NO head issues or other issues related to that casting.. anyway you look at it tho the CP cylinders are a VERY great choice!! i wouldn't rule out the twister small blocks they are just not as polular.. i think twista has a small bore PV cylinder but i am sure it takes some work to get to run really good. might call them just to have all your options cover'd how much is your "budget"? and what do you have already will be really what you need to look at...

in my limited exp with overrides. a std override or non duneable or non spring assisted uses the actual rotaton of the transmission to work that is yea it will shift on your bench due to design but to work right it needs to be moving in a forward direction with power from the motor turning it NOT reverse on the trans from not being on the power. the gears are flat on one side and angled ont he other and when you backload the dogs back up the ramps and push the gears out of gear now the only thing holding the trans in that particular gear is the shift fork so all that load and stress ges right intot he shift fork. on dunealbe or what i would call spring assisted the trasn AND springs actually move the gears when you shift SO you CAN down shift it in any gear if you are rolling forward and the gear behind has a spring that pops it back out of gear.. the ramps are all there and the backloading is still the same as a STD override.. its just really hard to have it in 2 gears at the same time from downshifting if your in an overriden gear.. i am still trying to figure them out completely and its not rocket science but its not super easy. i understand the theriorys now and kinda how they all work. i even modify the WCR's transmissions to feel differnt when they are shifted and its much easier to tell what gear its in weather N or 5th. overrides are a LOT of fun and a real necessity in a drag bike. if youve never been around one its best to have someone that really knows how to ride one kinda guide you through it while you are riding the bike.. all the over's i have installed i also try to do a "training" session to help them understand them better.. instead of a piece of paper in a box that says springs go here, dont down shift above 6k rpm.

deff not lt250. its liberia? all over the world there are weird motors out there it may be out of a local scooter or transport of some kind. ?

welcome to 1980's carb tech!! round slides suck bawls..

due to the CC and the power delivery of a serval i would say a BB would be better. should have better lower end. the 485 PV cheeta would also possibly be a lil better on the low end with the BB's/. but you'd probably not be able to tell a HUGE diff in the 2 pipes..

ok yeap thats a cylinder all right.. herp derp derp herp.

when you put the bottom section on the studs need to have a non threaded area that the o-rings sit on the oring cannot seal a thread.. i also grease these small o-rings.. i use an oring that fits very snug on the stud. i have to actually roll them down the stud.. i havent had a cool head ever leak doing that..

at least its interesting!!! lets keep it going?? if i could post pics i ahve been working on some "boyesen boost ports" on some welded stockers.. i'll be getting them bored next week and start reassemble the motor for testing in a month or so. the boost ports on dirtbikes, and hondas are there to help with low end and midrange on TT bikes and some circle burners the old skewl builders actually fill in the boost ports ( even eric goor does, suggest this) to help with top end powa.. the CUBS on the other hand are so large that they must help feed the trasfers also the bridges are far enough UP that they must blwo across almoat all the ports.. ofcourse this is what i THINK is going on as i have to envision it in my head.. in my opinion cause i only know of a very select few sofar that can use computer programs or a wet flow bench to simulate flow in the engine at diff speeds those top port probably did mess up flow through the rear trans port BUT i have to again.. envision it in my head. and think about how the fuel/air mix coming throught that small hole under pressure from the down stroke is at a high turbulence and blowing the incoming charge to the other wall of the inner trans tunnel port.. i personally like a VERY large boost port BUT only on lower powerbanded motors. engine with peaks in the 9000 rpm range and useable lowerend HP.. of course i havent personally ran a set fully welded and boost ported with holes big enough for my thumb to fit through BUT this "test" set of cyls is going to be my first attempt..

i know not absolutely banshee related but a kinda neat thing on using dry clutch and modding the cover or the basket and some neat info on differnt clutch styles and set ups. i thought it was a good read,. i found it after i was piddling around. cut my first boss on the ole lathe tonight for 8 plate banshee stocker conversion. hope to have some shafts for a jigg and mock up for final fitting soon!! http://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/01/08/22/

if its grenade brand for snowboarders you really should take the emblems off or switch them to the snowboarder patches OR rethink your theme, incorporate some more of the grenade branding instead of military branding into the bike. with all the people in the us military and a lot of them are going to be riding around i would think you should take that into consideration.. other than that i really like the bike its differnt and you taking the time to make it a true custom and home built is sweet.. make shock covers to match the seat that would be killer adn then put the pockets on the 2 front ones!!!

wish i could find a decent "chromer"

go to sleeze bay and put in 6 pack rack banshee should pop up a bunch of them

how old is this post? what the hell is with backcountry talking about using fmf pipes !!! on the drag strip!! that today would be laughed at. escpecially as thats a great builder these days. ( backcountry!!) most of this info is decent for a read and a discussion its so hard to have similar "talks" between builders about their styles and the way they see things.. those old 70's bell and gordon books are also good reads for beginners. if your interested in some basic therory in 2 stroke design.. i agree if i was a "builder" and my bikes looked like total shit all the time i'd be wondering what else looked like total shit. my work space? my engine building skills? i like to keep my personal bikes clean, adn at least as well maintained as possible. i dont have the $$$$ really to invest in one single super pimped all chromed bike. but what i do have is washed and clean not coverd in crap or mud or sand all the time. the filters are clean adn i use the best parts i have found that worked over the years.. mac dizz's site is a great read for most "beginners" it touches on a lot of subjects adn is kinda a introduction to what some of us stay up at night thinking about. i spent the time and read that site oh soooooooo many years ago!! it was the start of me rethinking some of my local port training iwas getting at the time..

so weird i only see OKO chinese shit carbs doing this? never the pwks.. weird??

some places adn shops already have curves figured out and ready as a download..

how many times are you going to post this??

head gouged? sure its coming from the head and not the lower cyl seals.

i have been using the driveline clutches for the last few higher HP builds they hold up great and great price..

sell it, or trade it in.. buy my drag bike go race..

remove old one, install new one use new gasket and adjust as necessary?

i'm so glad i dont have to mess with all the jets and BS with other carbs.. needles are all differnt in carbs they dont have a specific needle they just "come with" ( at least not most i have seen) dumps need drilled that big to allow the WOT to use the larger main jet. i'd prefer larger main jet over, overburden the PJ. i like a lil lee way on the powerjet.. makes later temp change jetting go much easier.. i know if you order the carbs NEW you can specify what needle you want in them. i always think its funny that so much timne is taken on tuning gas carbs but alky carbs are just kinda overlooked adn piss poor jetting is usually allowed.. yea yea it runs after you clean all the raw alky out and blow it all over the place. but why not just jet it right and have a good running bike?

dang thoght the whole RDZ/ shear thing was done already.. sheesh!!

my keyboard dyno says you have anywhere from 40 to 90 hp already must be a beast to ride!!!

i like to stay low bore. you should check that bore tho at 64mm unless they have been sitting on a shelf since new they are probably needing bored from piston wear. make sure you measuer them at the top middle and bottom. bet its barreld out.

dont skimp on the build.. 10's make a ton of tq and if built right will motor up just about anything with no clutch feathering...