camatv

what % of eth you talkin about?

oh you guys and your one bike to put together.. phhhh 10 mill needs head fixed, and reasembled. 485 needs shift forks thanks to my trials with light weight jockeys... wife's bike need completely put together some of the frame is done. but motor is every where.. the yfz conversion needs finished and then i have to try and build a complete motor for it from spare parts.. the camper hasnt moved since last year and it needs a battery and probably an oil change.. i havent decided if i want to take the cr5 trike this time or not too. plus i have a bike i HAVE to get done just to get paid so i can afford to go! and if you really need help with yoru chain i will be more than happy to help i charge 45 an hour. lowest shop rate around..

fuck a head count!

yeap and lots of big DM's that peeps are pissed at too.. id sell my 485 but i'm not gonna say how much yall's will just tell me i'm nuts.

i have a forged TDR crank in mine and its been bullet proof. its going on its 5th year with no hicups or issues BUT that being said if there is any issue with the motor i imediatly stop riding it and try and remidy the problem. also i took lots of care when i assembled the motor and have been diligent on the tuning and maintenance of the engine.. i have seen billets break and have seen fordged break cranks right now are a hard choice to try and get a decent quality one..

tip of the day.. buy a nice one stay away from crap.

only thing that ever beat me was another banshee.. anything else either had an excuse OR blew up trying to run me down...

looks kewl. i have been looking at the kfx front end..

ohhh man!!

forreal.. i know the place i go buyz geass ass takes da bavvell dovvn to da gearzz stazon and puzz da 91 ozztanes gearzz rizzo in da barrels deen tazzes iz dovvns to da stoe and sayzz iss 105 ozz tane fuelzz dem dang poked and stroked fart can bikes pizz meezzz off's can you please turn the ebonics or the GHETTO talk button off on your computer?

i didnt read all the other posts i'm just going to answer the question easily.. a 400cc - 421cc POWER VALVED cheeta will provide the necessary wide powerband to easily smoke a 4 poke and be rideable.. you would need someone that actually knows how to deal with a PV motor..

stop letting off and back loading it.. buy a GOOD trans thats not all cobbled up?

being an auto tech of course you dont want to do shit after working all damn day.. if you fix it right it will make you very happy and if you have a riding area it can be an excellent release. if you DONT like it sell it and buy a fishing reel. then go sit at the lake and ponder life..

guess i should put long fucking gone!

you can buy my outlaw for 15k.. this is a scam all it is.. not sure whats in your pipe but yea.. ok then. that color scheme is the 2010 version its not a pieced together pile of shit. i personally like the red lines on the black wheels.

oh man what a good time this is gonna be.. i guess i better get to work on the boobies bikes.

it wouldnt be that bad. the main what i call structure tube come at an angle down and then the oil tank mount, motor mount is right there also. thats the smaller tube that comes off of that those are the area that make normal banshee pipes not fit for shit, plus the oem radiator is right there as well. to try and straddle the radiator makes the pipes stick out a long ways, the biggest problem is the upper a-arm mounts need some support.. the other pipes i had here i test fitted and they wouldnt take that much modifications to make work ok. the way i did it here most out frame pipes fit fine so for a decent dune drag frame these would be fun to have.. just something differnt than a stock heavy ass banshee frame.. the next one will have the nose stretched quite a ways.. i will be making a frame jig for that one to hold the front in place. if i could find another roller i think after the jig is made i can try and chop the whole lower section off and try just remaking the tubes. about a 1" nose stretch would probably fit any aftermarket pipe and keep them from wacking the upper a-arms.. and that short of a stretch shouldnt really mess with the geo that much good idear loco!! if this one turns out well i will be doing these for people if they want. but of course it will all be custom one off's.

ha ha i should cover up the intake on this motor when i take pics... these were some big bore junk cylinders i got and was practice welding on them. also i did a lil practice intake stuff to see how far i could go before they broke out.. and also practiced the boost port sizes on them as well. they are just on this motor fo r mockup. the engine has no internals on it at all except a shift shaft, kicker, and output shaft with sproket on it. i prefer to use an actual motor for mocking instead of a jig or a fully built motor. its much easier to remove something that weighs about 20- 30 lbs..

my battery is in the plastic in the spot where the tools were its cut out and has a cheese ball plastic mount in there. it works someday i might fix it.. i have a bad ass stainless steel battery box i'd sell it was made for a YFZ but should be able to be used on anything with a lil ingenuity

i like those pics. those are some perfect example's of deto. and also the debris wasnt so bad that it destroyed the piston, dome.. i would look at that intake. and do you rember what it sounded like when you rode it rember that sound adn try and aleviate th situation. also i know those are shelf domes but they may of had somethign to do with the deto issue,s as well as the +6 timing.. just a thought.. there is a shit ton of blow by on the pistons as well. i have noticed over the years the easier i break the motors in the more blowby i end up having .. the harder the break in the better the ring seal. rember if you cannot jet the deto away you have problems elsewere.

meet at the big hill at high noon HA!!

ha ha another part that looks good on paper but dosent work. if your clutch basket is stock just replace it.. then send me the gear's. i've been working with a friend of mine to convert the stock gears to a needle design that actually works.

any intake you can find that DOSENT have that stupid ass built in crossover bullshit. also intakes that use real mikuni carb boots instead of the cheap ass chinese knock off gurantee'd to crack out bullshit. i dont quite know why the junk costs more than the nice stuff.. i personally like the trinity intakes. yes i said trinity. no boost tube no cracked boots easy to port match to reeds built with nice alluminum and tilted corectly to clear the clutch arm most of the time.. also any other 2 piece intake works great as well UPP's are nice. and reasonable. there is a guy on sleeze bay out of arizona that has a nice timing plate and also sells intakes those look decent as well.

to get the pipes to look right takes a lot of work. lots of frame modifications and radiator changes. i dont care about how much work it is i want it to look good when i'm done or at least custom and not jsut a pile of parts welded together..

what i mean is if yoru going to build one just go out as far as you can afford. do a 14-20 stretch and keep the swing arm short. if you can afford a joint ( they are like 40 bones) and can afford the steel why screw around?