camatv

havent seen boots like that in a LONG time.. i think you need more 1211 if i rember right those boots have the smaller bolt spread BUT fit a larger carb.

did you check the VIN? is it orange?

yea and one of them has the ground disconected...

wheelman you betta be givin me that stanky legg next time out!

i have no idear... spurdys prices go down the more he drinks. end of the night he'll PAY you to take shit.. just dont go sit in his camper the damn couch will break.

the one on ebay with the straights is the big ass high HP springloaded version.

bizump

those paper gaskets SUCK. they can rip after a lil bit.. and they didnt seem to like alky.. cometic is what i use. if you need diff thickness you can call them direct. for the clutch cover gasket i use OEM and OEM crank seals. the athena's are a lil thicker and are really nice i like them on trail builds where i need a lil more height.

OHHH didnt know that.. id sell the head.. 100 for blanks is trinity prices.. i know NOSS dosent like to try and recut others domes. at least last i talked to him.. you can add the deck popup to the existing clearance. id set it a tad low then just trim up till you get what you want. .45 would be a decent starting point. if it deto's loosen it up to 50.. if you can have the motor sitting there where the lathe is just trim them drop em in check it and adjust.

who quoted you 100 bucks for domes?? just keep it simple mock the motor up with the basegaskets you are going to use. tighten the cylinders. take a deck height measurement and call NOSS tell him what fuel you are going to run and about where you want the power at and what pipes you have. he charges like 70 bucks shipped for a set of domes tell him your on HQ and you will get a small discount.. dave is a super cool dude and will treat you right on what ever you need. done and done

extra medium ass. thats a good one!! tyler lil more work and your my jockey next year!! i can try and set it up more to your liking!

if your hillshooting 13.5-14 would get the nose up off the sand.. but i kinda dont like marvins.. i prefer fox floats.. if $$$$ isnt an issue. look into them they run about 650.

ding ding ding chicken dinner!! are you actually going to replace the OEM pistons WITH oem pistons?? yikes.

hmm daddy says NO and use the damn search OR do a lil reading in the sticky threads.. sheesh

hmm yea ok then.. whats bad is im not even saying my turd shitbox was the fastest there i'm just trying to keep the BS from coming out. and ya know JD was the only one to jump a flaming pit of fire so blaaaaa my money is on socal for the win.

you live in miami but you race me all the time?? i only jump started one time, when jeff was flaggin i left cause i heard other people leave as well and i got tired of sitting there after that i pulled off and waited till he was done. if you have to run me down an i let off next time go get some flags or cones or whatever you want pick a distance and i'll run that. i let off in the same spot or when i run past whoever most time i dont have to run anyone down. and no its not cause i was jump starting WES has plenty of vid i left with everyone else its not my fault that other people cannot setup a chassis to leave hard or work right. there were plenty of bikes that beat me out of the hole this time out. i think its time to freshen up the 535 5+years on the same pistons i think is starting to loose some power. i dont know very many bikes out there that have had a motor in them for this long all i have been doing to it was tuning on it and making positive changes to the same ole internals. plus i put credit where credit is due. matt was a super cool dude to talk to hes smart and is dedicated. how is that suckin his cock? what kinda pipes you runnin on your shit?

you guys are smokin. shears 611 never lost. it was the fastest bike there. hands down. i had a good seat to watch the runs.. i'm not swingin off no~ones nuts so i dont have to be impartial. of course i was impressed with the all black frame with the f.a.s.t. 7 mill in the retarded light chassis, and lil bitty rider. i mean damn i bet that entire combo is aroudn 320-330 lbs. my bike and me weight about 600+ also enjoyed the silver plastic'd bike with the crazy skull on the front with the "helmet" on that dude isnt a jerk when you talk to him.. i believe that is a f'a's't' build also. wheelman slims 10 cub rocket was right there with me and there is a vid to prove it plus he's 300+ jolly jockey too. that bike just worked frame worked good and motor ran well. hell when BBIII ran tedd1's cub in the ziggy chassis it freakin flew!! hell even tylers big ass heavy ass bike was within a few of the best bikes there. overall it was a extremely great turnout.. fun racin for a change.. hell the more i think about it except for a small handfull of bikes nearly everyone was within a few lengths of each other. and i didnt see anyone at the end takin pics. might be a lil diff story if we ran more than 250 ft too. i'll say this tho i'm NEVER running again if JEFF is gonna flag us. i'm sick and tired of waiting for 15 mins while he waits for everyone to smoke their clutches and jump screw it i'm sick of it. yea i'm gonna be the asshole that says something.

something is in there the gear is plastic for a reason its the weak link designed to break if there is a problem. FIND THE PROBLEM DONT JUST PUT IN A STEEL GEAR the drive gear have an issue? crank bent and causing problems? REPLACE the bearing anyways. something in the case area where the shaft rides and causeing a failure? some sort of crap in the coolant system like silicone or foregn material, like bugs dirt crap etc? (oops just read your above post.. i'll leave this here anyways..)

wow really? set the idle screws in till it idles. then synch them with a squrrel cage synch tool. you should also use it to set t he idle the same. also make sure you are putting the slides in the right way. cutout towards filters.

send me those lectrons!

that drum looks like dog shit.. the star is wrong too. can a massive backload break one like that !! yikes

this is a good write up for tuning AFTER you have all the inherent issues fixed with alky.. rember the number one problem is lean out due to fuel starvation. NOT jetting but a fuel delivery issue either dry bowls, bad petcock, air starvation in the gas tank, bad fule pressure.. inconsistent fuel delivery This is plagiarized (sp?) from atvdragracers.com courtesy of Carolina Shaker: Reading a alcohol tune-up using spark plugs is a very different than reading a gasoline tune-up on spark plugs. First major difference for alcohol is that you do not read the color off the porcelain around the center electrode. Air to fuel ratios within the combustion chamber are going to be read by the appearance of the metal base ring at the end of the threaded area of the plugs and the color of the first three threads of the spark plugs. The amount of ignition advance is still read as with gasoline plugs by the blue line on the plugs ground strap or sometimes referred to as the ground electrode. An important note is that the spark plugs only reflect the tune-up that was in the motor just prior to finish line engine shutdown. The fuel mixture and the ignition timing are totally intertwined as to the effecting the appearance of the spark plug ring at the of the threads and the EGT values. Changing the fuel to air ratio and changing the ignition will both change the combustion chamber temperature. The leaner the mixture or the more advanced the ignition the higher the combustion chamber temperature and the richer the mixture or the more retarded the ignition the lower the combustion chamber temperature. Remember the EGT sensor is outside the combustion chamber so it is only reading the exhaust gas/flame temperature. The more the ignition advance the lower the EGT and more the ignition is retarded the higher the EGT. This opposite effect is caused moving the heat or the flame out of the chamber into the exhaust with a retarded ignition and raising the temperature of the EGT. So having a high EGT because of retarded ignition can and will show less heat in the spark plugs. It is highly recommended to pick a maximum ignition timing point that is known to be good for your particular engine setup and tune the mixture for that point. This way the tune-up is safe and you can retard the ignition to pull out power without drastically changing your fuel tune-up. You can always go back to the maximum power ignition point without damaging the engine. Reading For Air Fuel Mixture An important step first is to degrease the plugs by spraying the threaded end with brake cleaner to remove any deposits of oil that may have been put on the plug during shutdown or when the plug was removed from the head. Most of the spark plug manufactures that make plugs used for racing plate the spark plug shell with cadmium or zinc which oxidizes at a temperatures that corresponds to the correct operating range of the temperatures within the combustion chamber of a racing engine. As one is tuning the motor and leaning the fuel system out the first part of the plating to start oxidizing will be the ground strap. This oxidation (burning) is uneven in progression around the ring at the end of the threaded part of the plug because the side of the plug ring that was closest to the exhaust gets hotter faster than the side of the plug ring that is closest to the intake . The result is a crescent of unburned cadmium that gets smaller as the engine is leaned out. When the cadmium is oxidized and has turned white across the entire face of the plug ring or countersink area just inside the ring the increased temperature then progresses down the side of the plug into the threaded area. The peak performance is at the point where the cadmium or zinc plating oxidizes and turns white over about 90% of the plug ring and a small crescent of unburned plating is left on the ring. Burning 100% of the plating off the ring all the way down to the first thread will not result in any damage but will also not result in any increase in engine performance. There is a fairly large tuning range between the burned area being at 90% and being burned all the way down to the first thread. Using this large area will ensure that no damage is done to the engine. The next stage from this safe appearance is when the cadmium is burned down to the second thread and the ring loses its white appearance and picks up a greenish tint with small visible bubbles and the ground strap picks up rainbow colors (blues and green when held in the bright sunlight). The strap getting hot enough to exhibit rainbow colors is hot enough to start igniting the fuel mixture too soon and causes pre-ignition/detonation. As the plug gets hotter then sooner the mixture will ignite and this will result in the melting of the ground strap and possible breaking of the plugs porcelain and damage to the upper rod bearings. By keeping good records of actual performance this peak performance point should be readily seen and matched to the indication on the spark plug ring. When the 90% white ring is obtained with the fastest MPH noted you are now ready to move on to adjusting the ignition timing. Reading for Ignition Timing Once the fuel mixture has been adjusted so that 90% of the plug ring is white and all the cylinders have been adjusted so that the white area are the same on all plugs the ignition timing can be now checked by reading the blue line on the ground strap of the plug. Ignition timing is also directly responsible for the heat in the combustion chamber and therefore the color of the plug's ground strap is a tattletale sign of this temperature because it is thinner than anything else on the plugs and sits right out in the combustion chamber. The ignition timing can be checked by looking at the color of the plug's ground strap and the position of the "blue line" on the strap. The blue line really indicates the point at which the strap has reached annealing temperature of the metal. To help to understand this think of a bar of steel (ground strap) on a table that is being super heated with an acetylene torch at one of the tip ends. As the end heats up and the heat starts moving down the bar you will see a blue line across the bar at some point down the bar away from tip with the torch. This blue line reflects the temperature that is the annealing point of the metal. As the temperature increases the blue line moves further down the bar away from the torch. Similarly, the blue line moves down the spark plug ground strap as you put more heat in the engine. Assuming that you have adjusted the alcohol fuel mixture correctly and if you are using gold colored ground strap like with an NGK spark plug then not enough timing will show the ground strap as still gold or going light gray maybe with a few bubbles on it after a run. As you advance the ignition and put heat in the engine the plug ground strap will turn darker gray. As the metal turns medium to dark gray you should start looking for the blue line (band) around the ground strap. Ideally, you want this blue line to be just above where the ground strap makes the sharp bend and above the weld. If you advance the ignition too far the blue will disappear off the strap and the strap will pick up rainbow colors (blues and greens). The next step beyond that is to start melting the strap from the tip end and detonation. When you are close to the correct timing then only change the timing by half a degree at a time. If you ignition system has the capability of adjusting the timing of each cylinder independently (ICT) then you can use that feature to have the blue line in the same position on all the plugs. First, adjust the basic timing to get as many of the plugs to have the blue line just at the sharp bend in the strap. Now adjust the ICT to move the blue line to the same point on the remaining plugs. Once all the plugs read the same you can advance the ignition a little at a time to put the blue line just above the weld on the strap or whatever point gives you the best performance. If your timing is too far retarded then it maybe necessary as you adjust the timing to add a little more fuel to keep the crescent on the end of the plugs white for 90% of the area. Be very careful on adjusting timing because it does not take much change to make a lot of difference. I recommend limiting the changes to half a degree at a time. It is easier to set the timing at a known good degree for the type of engine and adjust and individual cylinder timing (MSD ICT) to balance out all the cylinders and then adjust the mixture to show the correct amount of white area on the metal ring of the plugs as explained above.

the guzzler pingle flowa a massive amount of fuel. with a large billet bowl, large needle/ seat, and guzzler and my smaller floats i havent had a fuel starv problem BUT you may want to pump yours instead just cause.. i dont know what the local area has to offer as far as methanol is concern'd id just look at the differnt fuels and see if you can get a sample and check it for hydro content. look to see if its milky at all and if it smells really strong.. crappy methanol can really cause havok on a new build and tune.. the intake you need for the 44mm carb is not available in the aftermarket i had to build mine from a plate and a round tube and a small piece of radiator hose . it works fine and i could match it to the intake tract well. not the cylinder itself. you can play with a smaller carb like OEM but you WILL have headaches in the tuning of it compared to a lectron.. plus the motor will like a larger carb much more. looks like i'm heading to the alps!!

from what i understand srp didnt show up till later friday afternoon one bike had a transmission lockup or something on the way out to the dunes ( orange and white bike). the other bike they brought to race was in my opinion more of a track bike with the setup it had. it wasnt full ridgid but was close. it was a lot like cockeye's 450 and he races the hell out of it on the dunes.. so i dont know how it would have fared.. in my opinion matt came out and was a blast to hang with was cool to watch and his dedication was shown in strides. he came out fighting and was prepared to do battle.. his 611 dm 10 mill absolutely smoked EVERY other bike there. there wasnt ANY local that was even close. no 4 mill to 18mil nothing. only bike that was close was scott's big [censored] 18. whats even funny to me is both were in stock chassis.. i know this may piss some people off. but i think its necessary to let the naysayers get the truth. also i'd like to add that for some reason i am being constantly refer'd to as to beating the 421 of shears that was to race SRP. i want it known that srp didnt have anything to do with my build. they have never put a wrench on it or given me any advice on set up in fact i have learned it all myself from trial and error. my 535 DIDNT have sniper pipes on it when i beat matt and i want to add that later in the day with tom on it after they tuned it in it was getting me by about a half length to 1 bike. and of ALL the 421 cubs i have ever raced against that has been the best showing i have ever seen. this winter its getting a rebuild and freshen up and i'm going looking for a jockey that can ride.. yea SRP were parkend next to me but bobby was who i was really hangin out with. i'm personally kinda mad that his bike didnt run at all and was jacked up but never fixed. i dont feel that i should mess with another builders motor if they are there in the camp with it. oh wel we had fun on the 400ex in the rain!! all drama aside i had a good time. it was great hanging out with kevin and everyone from arkansas, BB3 was fun as always. if i would have know it was going to rain like hell on saturday i would have gotten my ass out of bed and ran more on thursday and friday. i'm so pissed at the weather!! i think i need to train andrew to be my jockey!!! or find NEWT! he's a hell of a rider

pics.