Jump to content

fast87

Members
  • Posts

    281
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fast87

  1. i say aluminum, first of all it wont rust like chrome, it matches a lot of banshee parts(billet aluminum), and bends easier than steel, so it should bend before your frame does..i've never hit anything head on hard enough to prove this, but maybe someday... ~Mark~
  2. that's what i did...bought a set of 15-20.00 wal mart lights, 35 watt of coarse, cut the wires after the plug and soldered black to black, then the 2 other wires from the bike to the white wire on the new light...so i can just click up the switch and they go on, without worrying about them working on only hi or lo beam...driilled a new hole in the stock mounting tabs and bolted them in, a little grinding on the aluminum lights actually but not a big deal, really easy but they looked too yellow for me, i stuck my stockers back in for the white lights and the "custom" covers i have that match everything....good luck i shoulda kept my wal mart lights on, or found some white ones instead of yellow, those new LED 35 watt lights look promising..but i havent seen em much at stores ~Mark~
  3. use the power jets...i adjusted min fully closed which was a mistake..i think i blew the top end, anyway open it up 1/4 turn at a time to be safe, good luck ~Mark~
  4. ahh you fucker!! thats the ONLYT one that got me!!! i jumped nback and rolled intot he table behind me...god dammit i should start reading replies before trying this crap...lol i had my face like 6" from the screen too...damn you ~Mark~
  5. if you have white fronts, cut or not i'd be interested...just about any shape ~Mark~
  6. heater hose isn't permanent, what's in there now should be silicone quality hose...so basically it's not rubber and won't melt unless it's on fire..a lot more expensive, but what do you need, 4 inches?? a few bucks will help you from smelling burnt rubber and black rings where the clamp is..good luck i was gonna replace mine...i did the research then put my crusty ones back on..lol ~Mark~
  7. check your plug color and clean your air filter!! that might help...if the air cleaner looks dirty clean it..just to be sure ~Mark~
  8. i have a stock head off a 2005, 40 shipped? used for maybe 5 weekends, looks new and comes with a head gasket, send me a PM if you're interested ~Mark~
  9. i bought some red light up spark plug caps off ebay, they had little tube lights(that looked just like a little glass fuse), they worked good for about a year, but in all this wet conditions they got corroded badly when it sat for a couple months(rebuild time) and i coulden't get it started at all after i finished...so i tore apart the caps which no longer lit up,a nd found tons of corrosion in there, stuck some standard caps on and it ran like new...they were like 20 bucks on ebay and a good idea if you check em every couple months, (the center part unscrews so u can replace the bulb), they'd be best if you rode mosrly sand, so they last longer...they did light up the top of my engine at night and it was pretty sweet, i got a few comments about em...try your local harley shop, i bet they have something...just make sure it's got the 90* bend for a V twin ~Mark~
  10. thanks for the heads up, i had my entire engine down late last summer and forgot it had the little lip to hold it in...i'll just check to make sure it's in right, and if it isn't then i realyl doubt it's leaking cuz she runs MINT, a little rich but both pistons look exactly the same on top, so probably not leaning out the left side...thanks again ~Mark~
  11. damn i knew i screwed that up somehow...i don't remember my replacement seal having a spring on both sides...damn u guys i gotta adjust my timing anyway, so looks like i'll be checking out that seal, findout out that it's in wrong and replacing it with another new one and put it in right, lol thanks for helping out the helper ~Mark~
  12. don't forget about ceramic coating...most PC shops can handle this too ~Mark~
  13. all seals of that type(the round one that seals the crank to the cases right?) go on a specific direction...................................ok enough waiting, that direction is.....................the flat side is always outside, so the little spring is towards the crank, along with the cavity in the seal that the spring is in, all that goes towards the crank/oil....good luck and remember absolutely NO lubrication(foreign or natural) goes ont he OUTSIDE of that seal, or on the case where the outside of the seal mates...carefully put some engine assembly lube(KY is not recommended for engines, sorry) on the inside of that seal, you can also use engine oil or 2 stroke oil, just don't get it between the seal and case...only oil between seal and crank...i explained that as simply as possible, you never know what kinda speshal kids read this shtuff...hope it works for ya and do u know how to install it?? if you're worried about the spring falling off inside the engine(the seal will no longer do it's job if this happens) i have another trick for ya...installation can be done carefully by tapping the outer edge of the seal with a small hammer and walking it in evenly, don't get it in sideways or too deep(far), even with the case or where the old one was is plenty, good luck ~Mark~
  14. yup i'm in the group, now i feel speshal!! dunno my address to the thingy but my name is Marky, check me out what a stuuuud, o yeah my slammed banshee is in my pics too ~Mark~
  15. we cancelled our paypal account, and we did contact paypal but they said we had "insufficient evidence"....so there is nothing paypal will do, i was using the honor system by sending him the money in the first place, and this low life should do the same, we even offered him to send us back only 60.00 and save a few bucks for whatever trouble he might have had... ~Mark~
  16. I found his address, so here it is for anyone living nearby that would like to pay him a little visit.. Brad Evans 3850 Michael ave Warren, MI 48091 ~Mark~
  17. Basically to make a long story short, he has my $78.00 for front fenders, and front/rear lowering kits, this idiot lives in michigan but i do not have his address(maybe somebody else does), I paypalled him the money at least a month and a half ago, he ocmpletely ignores all my and my fathers e-mails, and has obviousely decided to keep my money, i dunno aboutt he rest of ya but i work hard for my $$, and don't like getting ripped off, so i hope this jackass "68charger" sees this post and decided to chime in, because those parts are rightfully mine and he is being an asshole, as every scam artist is...That's my rant and i hope something comes of it, because i could really use those parts as indoor circle track racing is just a couple weeks away... Thanks(F you 68charger, his real name is Brad) ~Mark~
  18. 33x12.50 swamper TSL's under my 89 toyota, 3" body lift...yeah i know, eventually detroit locker in the back, 4" suspension lift and 35's...about 4K miles on the swampers and they're 1/3rd worn down....mostly because it's my daily driver/mudder ~Mark~
  19. my banshee (+4 swingarm, +4 axle, all other suspension is stock) fits in the bed of my 89' toyota pickup, i lift the front wheels up on the roll bar support bars(one 3" bar on each side that goes from the top of the main roll bar to the top of the fender well) and ratchet em down to those bars, close the tailgate and it's secure, i'm even running 22" super swampers(wider than stock) with the wider axle and it fits snugly between the side of the bed, that's a small truck by ym standards and it fits great, BTW this is the newer style toyota, i'm not sure if it will fit in the older style toyota's.. ~Mark~
  20. still got the gas cap?? i call dibs this is a great deal ~Mark~
  21. 38 cents says it's a chrome sticker...you can buy a roll of it for a few bucks at any "performance shop", i did it to mine..all wrinkled and looks like crap..not worth 6 bucks IMO, plus this dude's bad reputation you might not get it anyway ~Mark~
  22. yes there is a difference, mine came with no box, the guy just hacksawed the rear portion of the box off so he can still mount the overflow tank..also shields a little mud from getting on the filter, if you ride through puddles or wet roads you'll have to clean that filter once a day minimum...if you ride dunes or only when it's dry out then go for it, you'll see a slight increase in power(i did), i bought another 20.00 box from a member on here and put that on during the winter months(lucky me, 8 months of rain a year in the PNW), have fun whatever you decide, and remember to do a plug chop after you remove the box, it might be running a little lean ~Mark~
  23. i'm currently in WA state, i don't start NTI till august of next year... i'll be in mooresville, NC when i do start, any good places close? Thanks ~Mark~
  24. Thanks for the replies, this nascar class also teaches me about all your new car technocology also, and is in no way limited to nascar racing circuit...as for job placement, they have a big name dealership they work closely with, as well as a few other companies on the east coast area...if everything fails miserably and i never get a job, i can always come back home, and take over the family business..that works also, just not what i had in mind or what really interests me. Is there anyone on these forums from North Carolina or a surrounding state?? what's the weather like?? i'm used to 8 months of rain here in the pacific NW so it can't be that bad, i look forward to going to this school and see how "great" i can become. I am dedicated to whatever i do, and don't intend on skipping class(the rep REALLY focused on not missing any days)...My only problem would be my driving record, i have 3 tickets but am going to court for them at the beginning of december, we'll see how that turns out...they are small tickets anyway, 101.00 each, two for having passengers under 20 while on intermediate license, and one for failure to stay right of center, i will have one deferred, for the other two, they were both written on the same little green paper at the scene, some friends have told me that only counts as one ticket, and i most likely won't get my license taken away for 6 months, hopefully! manufacturers and companies alike really don't like a bad driver, they have to pay their insurance, and trust them with customer cars, so lets hope it works out and i get lucky again, and from now on i vow to NOT get any more tickets, especially not a reckless..Thanks for the replies and may this thread live a long life! ~Mark~
  25. So the date is set, i leave on august 28th and graduate november 16th, 2007 from NTI (NASCAR Technical Institute) in North Carolina(any good wheelin spots over there??) I currently live in WA state, so it will be a LONG drive over...but what i'm getting at is tips, tricks, or pure BS, who's got some for me?? it's a 15 month program, signed up last night, etc...Has anyone heard any good/bad things about NTI or UTI in general?? i'll be going solely for the NTI NASCAR program, and the optional 3 week pit crew coarse, hell yeah!!! Lets hear the words of wisdom from those of you who've been there, done that...So far the plan is to buy a smallish trailer once we get there about a month in advance to check things out, and stick it in a trailer park or some lot near the school in Mooresville, NC to save on living expenses, but we'll see how it goes...there is also the slight possibility of taking my banshee with me, my parents think that it would distract me from "important" stuff like school..but what do they know right? lol, Thanks in advance for all those who can offer their wisdom, i'm 17 years old and (think i am) ready for this kinda life, moving away from everybody i know for 15 months, and after i graduate who knows what will happen, hell i could join a nascar team and be there for 20 years, just gotta wait and see!! ~Mark~
×
×
  • Create New...