fast87

as long as a piece of the gear selector spring didn't migrate to your tranny gears you're fine...that would suck ~Mark~

your clutch is gone, what kinda abuse did you put it through on your last few rides?? i ripped up banshee hill at winchester bay all day during dunefest and it ate up my clutch..put a new one in there at the dunes and it had more power than ever, now she'll wheelie in 3rd fairly easily...i can just about guarantee you that it's your clutch tho, good luck and throw them little rubbery/plastic bands away that separate your clutch disks, they're useless ~Mark~

You got a PM back, consider the lowering kits and front plastic sold, Thanks ~Mark~

how much for the white race cut fronts shipped to 98520 in WA state?? also a separate price for front and rear lowering kits?? the front is the ones that go on the bottom of the shocks right? iwth my J arms i can't use the top ones that make the shock almost upright, Thanks ~Mark~

put a thin coat of grease on your carb slides, unscrew the tops and pull em out, just make sure when they go back in that your carb is closed almost all the way, it is possiblew to put the slide in wrong and you'll be stuck wide open...twist it till it falls down in ~Mark~

NICE bike for 1,000 bucks!! If you wanna sell thatr rear oval bumper LMK i need something like that for flat track racing around here, and did i say that's a damn good deal? have fun and remember banshees are purdy high maintenance, you'll figure that out, and oh yeah go buy a clymers manual as soon as you get 25 bucks ~Mark~

haha now that's really flowered up!! ~Mark~

put in new plugs first, i bet one fouled...had the same problem and took me a while to figure out why my single carb setup would only foul one side...leaned her out with the power jet thingy and i haven't had that problem again, might be something more serious, but always start with the obvious ~Mark~

i can;t seem to access my yahoo account, so anyway 50 shipped for the lowering kit, if you have pics i got a different e-mail for those, also if you take paypal i can send payment right away, i still want it, but have been having some computer problems lately with this new internet....LMK your paypal addy if you got it so we can make this happen, Thanks ~Mark~

i got a set of .020" over cylinders for sale, need to be bored to most lilely .030" over to get the scratches out(ring broke but no deep scratches), also a new prolite top end kit with .020" pistons and gaskets, includes a stock head that has 2 weekends on it, no porting at all, LMK what you wanna pay for this and i will just sell the jugs and just sell the piston kit if needed, Thanks and i'm interested in a +4 or +2 roundhouse swingarm and carrier, or the extended a-arms ~Mark~

2 cents says it's the attaching bolts at either the top or bottom of the shock, remove both bolts and grease em up without making a mess in areas you can see, and put it all back together, you can even douche the rubber grommets at the ends of the shock with WD-40 just in case, same goes for the back shock, i finally figured out that the god awful squeak is the top shock mount, did the above steps and now i listen to everyone else's banshee squeak when they sit on it, lol ~Mark~

i'd like to know about this reed cage porting steps, can you send them to me?? [email protected], Thanks and also do you have apic of a stock reed petal? mine is an 87 and i don't think they're stock....Thanks again i much apprish ~Mark~

i don't believe it has been mentioned yet but boring your cylinders strictly to get more power is hogwash, lets say you take your nice clean cylinders on a stock bore, and max them out at .100" over stock, 50 hours later you break a ring, it scratches up the right cylinder just a little, enough so it will not run reliably, and also enough that it NEEDS to be bored .010" over, there is no room...O SHIT what do you do now?? resleeve the cylinders or buy a new/used set of jugs...all for that extra 1.4712390HP you just gained from the pointless .100" overbore...buy a new set of spark plugs, clean your air filter and dial in the jetting, there's your extra 2-3HP right there...live and learn i guess, go ahead and max out your cylinders, just please don't make pointless threads about "resleeving your cylinders at home in 3 easy steps" because there is no such thing, always bore the minimum amount each time, just enough to make it round and all the scratches are gone(yes, crosshatch is a GOOD thing) ~Mark~

how much for both the front and rear lowering kits/blocks?? shipped to WA state zip code 98520, Thanks and pics?? send em or reply to [email protected] ~Mark~

make sure you're running cheap pump gas with stock compression, race gas will not help in your case and start very hard when cold...pump gas it is for you ~Mark~

with a 16 you probably have to start in 1st gear out of the hole, with my 14 i can start in second gear, like most everybody else on the HQ,,,good luck and by all means find out what's been done to that engine, the more you know the better off you'll be and the smarter you'll look when the guy you just beat asks you what you got into that beast, good luck ~Mark~

if you're running the stock head your compression should be on the lowish side, compared to a cool head w/ smaller domes, anyway my point is the gas, 105 octane is TOO MUCH octane for stock compression, drain the gas back into a can and put in 87 octane and try again, it's wotth a shot i've seen race gas make stock bikes start very hard when cold....put 87 octane in there and BOOM, problem fixed, good luck ~Mark~

you should have masked off ALL open areas into the cylinder before painting....with that said i hope there is no paint on the cylinder walls and you at least accurately measured the bore with a vernier caliper at the minimum..and converted to millimeters so you know what size cylinders you're dealing with...also read us exactly what the top of the piston says, 64mm is stock, 64.50mm is .020" over, and so on....the alst few numbers on the top of the piston should be something like that, good luck ~Mark~

yup you have the gayness(TORS), does it run fine the way it is?? if so then leave it unplugged...or for kicks and giggles warm up the bike so you know it will restart easily, and connect the plug, does it even start? or run above a high idle?? if plugging this in screws up your engine's running "capabilities" then unplug it again...my guess is the shop monkeyed with it and if it runs fine leave it unplugged, and if it won't start with it plugged in, i use it as a security device and plug it in when i'm not running the bike so nobody can start it without some major banshee know-how, good luck ~Mark~

asclultz91, YGPM, i don't know what to ask for, so the price may be a bit on the high side, make an offer ~Mark~

i got a good set of jugs bored .020" over(need another clean-up bore to .030") i'd sell ya, also a NEW in box .020" wiseco prolite top end kit complete with everything, a 2005 head in perfect shape for 35, etc...LMK if you want any of this stuff, no PM's just e-mail me at" [email protected] ~Mark~

check for spark, it might sound crazy but i almost guarantee it's your problem...start with replacing both plugs, then move up to the spark plug wires, etc...swap parts with another friends shee if possible, also check your reeds they may be damaged..but i'm betting on spark, i had the same problem and it was too rich with my dial-a-jet and fouling only 1 plug.., good luck ~Mark~

a hardware store or mans garage should have grease zerk fittings...if you move the wheel towards the footpeg very much something might be wrong..or there is just a little wear on something, it could be in your front swingarm pivot bearings, wheel hub, etc...i woulden't really worry about it...just wear and tear, i bet if i checked to see if my tire would push towards the footpeg that it would a little..not worth replacing good bearings to end up with the same situation IMO ~Mark~

replace the plugs first off, also clean the air filter soon, even if you think it's clean....switch plug wires to see if the problem switches cylinders..good luck ~Mark~

yes i have 3 brand spanky new head gaskets...i run a cool head so i don't need em anymore, i m not sure yet but i might need to keep one gasket to sell with the good head, when i get around to it...i'm in WA state(west coast), so we're a long ways apart...if you do make the mounts i would gladly polish them myself, Thanks ~Mark~