fast87

all of the above, i know it's not banshee related but a set of fabricated aluminum small block ford(289, 302, 351) tall valve covers would be cool, i've been looking for a set for the stang but dont want to pay 200+ for 15.00 in material.. ~Mark~

for a little more detail, the bastard wouldent start with a good 20min of kicking, so i had the g/f pull start me, we got a little over 2 blocks distance with it turning over before it fired up, for about the first block the clutch was grabbing but wouldent disengage, like something was stuck...after that it just started working normally again..i probably bent something during all this unfortunately, Thanks ~Mark~

about 4-5 months ago i was riding the moses lake dunes with the g/f, then all at once my clutch lever went to the handle bars, i thought broken cable but it was fine, the shaft is moving at the top of the tranny..i let it sit while i worked on my stang, and about 3 weeks ago i pulled the side cover and found the clutch basket very loose, in fact i pulled it right off...the big nut came off(the tab bent back on the steel plate behind it), so i tightened the clutch basket on there as tight as possible with our weak impact and tried to bend the plate around the nut, along with some blue loc tite so it doesnt happen again. Anyway i took it for a ride and all is well(jetting was WAYYY off) except in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and sometimes 4th when i decelerate it will pop into a false neutral..it worked perfectly fine and i've never had this problem with this before so any help is appreciated, maybe i left a spring off somewhere?? Sorry for being long winded, i just wanted to rule out bent parts unless i bent something using the impact wrench.. ~Mark~

yup..i always let it drain for about an hour if i'm not in a hurry, then dump 2 quarts of type F in there, a little extra couldent hurt since there's a vent tube and it helps kep the ball from welding to the clutch rod...usually a little under 1/4" over full on the dipstick, plus the red color is easier to read on the aluminum stick ~Mark~

Q.) Why does a penis have a hole in the end? A.) So men can be open minded. Q.) What's the speed limit of sex? A.) 68 because at 69 you have to turn around. Q.) What does a Rubix cube and a penis have in common? A.) The longer you play with them, the harder they get. Q.) What's the difference between your paycheck and your dick? A.) You don't have to beg your wife to blow your paycheck! Q.) Three words to ruin a man's ego... A.) "Is it in?" Q.) What do you get when you cross Raggedy Ann and the Pillsbury Dough Boy? A.) A red headed bitch with a yeast infection. Q.) How can you tell when an auto mechanic just had sex? A.) One of his fingers is clean. Q.) What do you do with 365 used rubbers? A.) Melt them down make a tire, and call it a Goodyear. Q.) What do bungee jumping and hookers have in common? A.) They both cost a hundred bucks and if the rubber breaks, you're screwed. ~Mark~

i wrap mine fairly tight, you can see the coils..i've jumped a bit and haven't ripped a cover yet, the velcro will probably come undone before that heavy duty fabric tears, so not a big deal to me just put em on and hit the mud! ~Mark~

yeah, any air leaking in after the carb slide...could be the case seals, crank seals, any intake area and i've even heard of some exhaust leaks causing problems...but not likely, anyway check your gaskets for tears, might as well replace them all while you're in there and coat them with ultra grey(not silicone based) before installation, except for head gasket like i said before, leave it dry...with the engine running most poeple spray carb cleaner around the seal areas and if it dies or the idle changes rapidly you have found a leak...good luck and there is little coolant drain bolts on each side of the cylinders, they use a 10mm wrench, good luck ~Mark~

a ring might have caught a port int he cylinder, then bounced around on top of the piston and chewing it up like that...there may not be an airleak but when you put it back together seal everything really well with some ultra grey sealant, except the head gasket, clean all surfaces as best you can with a razor blade then block sand it with 400+ grit sand paper...clean it up really well, remember 90% of the dirt in your engine comes from assembly, so be clean clean clean and you'll have less problems down the road, like crank seals, etc...good luck tho, i had a ring catch a transfer port and screw everything up, i have a set of .020" over jugs that need to be bored to .030" if you need em, and also a like new stock head, used for less than 5 weekends off of a 2005, PM me for details and pics ~Mark~

haha thats awesome, also check out chucknorrisfacts.com ~Mark~

i think a mini swingarm keychain made of billet aluminum would be sick, same goes for a banshee frame, seat or anything like that..maybe some handlebars?? i'd pay a few bucks for something that nobody else has, banshee or quad related that is...hell a mini toyota pickup like mine would be fuckin sweet ass, even if its the size of a hotwheels i'd buy it...all aluminum of coarse, i cant be the only guy here either, good luck ~Mark~

lol i just heard this one on myspace...so i dunno what grade or who this chick is but its pretty funny, lol ~Mark~

I was in biology class once, and the teacher said there is sugar in sperm. A girl asked why doesn't it taste sweet then. When she realized what she said her face became red with embarrasment. Then the teacher said, because you taste sweetness with the front of your tongue, not the back of your throat. The girl started crying and left class ... ~Mark~

i agree somewhat with banshee04le...it's fiber material, try switching to ATF type F only and i bet your problem goes away, mine sure did, the check wal mart 20wt has detergents in it that wear out your banshee clutches very fast...too bad i didnt figure this out sooner..anyway switch to type F and never look back, also aluminum is not magnetic..run a magnet around there all you want and if something sticks to it, it's your tranny, not an aluminum clutch hub.. ~Mark~

a local hardware store like ACE should carry em in those small nut/bolt bins in the back...i've seen em there before, not sure about length but bring in something to measure the threads...i'm pretty sure it's a 8 x .25mm thread but dont quote me on that ~Mark~

try to recreate this sound by rolling it in neutral...make sure its not the chain, pull the head first to see what you can see...if its coming apart anyway it doesnt matter the order you remove parts, good luck and let us know what the problem was ~Mark~

i just got this idea...clean your air filter!! haha it sounds obvious and stupid but many people forget..it will run for a second on the air that's in the filter and carb/intake runner already, then when it needs more air it will die like yours..good luck ~Mark~

spray all connections with WD40, and check for rust..in there too, change spark plug, etc.. also ~Mark~

i run the graydon setup with a 35mm PWK and get about 2.5hrs on a tank...i never had stockers on so i cant really compare, but i would think you use the same amount of fuel since every intake/compression stroke can onl;y take in so much fiel/air..unless you do engine(compression) mods the feeding system(carb) should put the same amount to the combustion chamber..basically i'm saying it should be the same as stock, or a little more, the benefits of the 2:1 setup are worth it ~Mark~

Clicky here: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...num%3D10%26hl%3 ~Mark~

xlean everything very good, including the stator, and flywheel magnets..get all rust and moisture outta there, dry it iwth a heat gun or hair dryer if you have to..if and only if then it still has a problem replace the broken component..possibly the stator but don't throw parts at it, find the problem then buy a new one if its not fixable...good luck ~Mark~

looks like above average quality to me, dont do any HUGE jumps with it and you'll be fine..my only complaint would be the chrome, where i ride and how i ride it would rust rather quickly..keep that in mine, also what condition is your chain roller in?? i'm talkin about the one that goes around the left side tube on the swingarm, you might wanna replace it while it's apart with a cascade or TM designs one(i think thats the other company..i have the cascade one), also get the best chain/sprockets you can afford, even a case saver if you got the extra 25 bucks, it's good insurance ~Mark~

i suppose since some people are into fucking up their engines, run 30wt motor oil!! i've seen it done by a fucktard once upon a time in an outboard motor clamped to a party barge...it actually worked good for a few months then we started to hear the sound of metal grinding...it was my friends moms friends boat..lol he's a complete dumbass, told me that 2 stroke oil and motor oil are the same thing..so i said ok and walked away, hahah and yes he ran the same mix in a jet ski...for some weird reason his jet ski top end went too...go figure ~Mark~

how much was that coil?? and whats with the mounting tabs, do you have to drill through the frame and use a nut on the other side? or just use one mount hole?? looks like a sweet setup to me ~Mark~

before you cut it out, i spent almost a week pounding on my bolt and it didn't budge, same exact problem u have...i ended up starting with a smallish drill bit and working up to the 5/8" size bit on each side(do 1 side more than the other so u can hold the nut or bolt head to keep the bolt from spinning with the drill bit)..just drill away with a strong corded drill and you'll get it...took a good 2-3 hours of drilling/sharpening but it's worth it..unless your swinger is junk anyways, good luck man i've been there and done that ~Mark~

maybe your 04 has a higher idle...that could be it ~Mark~