oldman

I am under the impression that for each inch of bore diameter, you need .004 inches of ring gap. This would translate into 2.5 inches x .004 = .01. You do not want the ends to touch so you add .001 for each inch of bore. This would put the min. ring gap at .0125. The max is .20 incches.

I just got my jugs back today and suspect that I have received a less than precise bore job. My ring gap is .028 on one jug and .022 on the other. Clymer says .012 to .018 with .20 being the limit. The pistons are Wisco pro lites, which give the same spec. ( .004 per inch of bore ). Would you give this guy a second chance? What is all the rage about these wisco pro lite's? The rings have got to wear a hell of a lot faster than that of the stock pistons.

Thank you sandman. You have put my mind at ease with regards to this concern.

Thanks for the detailed reply Mark. The stator side crank seal has a spring on both sides. I guess I will install it with the green striped side facing out, as Clymer says. As I mentioned, the factory installed seal had the green stripe facing in. The seal never failed, I am just replacing them because I split my cases to inspect my lower end.

Clymer mentions installing the stator side crank seal with the green stripe on the seal away from the crank. I have had my bike since it was new and this is the first time it has been rebuilt. The factory installed seal had the green stripe towards the crank. I guess I just want to be sure that Clymer does not have a misprint. Perhaps it can be installed either way. How yall been installing this seal?