fast87

same goes for a boost bottle, they're JUNK...the above mods will helpa lot, and if you have 300-400 bucks to spend on a single carb setup i would do it, i run a graydon proline 2:1 setup with a keihin 35mm carb with a K&N, works great, more low end, and the same top end..good luck with your banshee and remember a banshee is not made for low end, if that's all you're after go buy a 4 stroke ~Mark~

no kidding...these beasts aren't cheap to maintain...glad you got the bearing out, it is similar to the upper rod bearing right?? but smaller or coarse...i never took mine out, just cleaned it and put in a new seal above it..i just spent 6 hours today finishing the shee, got the engine finished and in, and everything else assembled, waiting on a few things, but will be running by the endof the day , after all it's only been 5 months , 8 days to dunefest!!!! good luck with your banshee and may it run as well as mine(should) ~Mark~

i might be wrong here but you wither need to remove the seal above it, then pick it out with asomething soft like your finger, or you need to split the cases and get it out from the inside...but don't go splitting the cases just yet, get some other opinions first... ~Mark~

i run 10-30 or 10-40wt, why would you run 80wt??? to me it's extra drag on the tranny gears, you're probably losing HP with it...plus the yamaha manual recommends regular ol 30 or 40wt motor oil...why use thicker oil?? i have had zero tranny problems, i just tore my whole engine down and see no signs of abnormal wear on any gears or shifting mechanisms...also i hear a lot about running type F automatic transmission fluid, what's the advantage of that?? Thanks ~Mark~

58 cents says it is dry of lubrication , remove the caliper bolts and sand them, next coat them in grease(a semi-thick, even layer), then re-install, more than likely you're caliper isn't sliding, so the only pad that is used is the inner..i actually think it's the bolts that mount it to the rear bearing hub that slide..remove it and find the sliding pins, i'm also pretty sure they have rubber boots at each end, shove a little grease in there also(with your finger or grease gun, wipe off the excess) ~Mark~

my right side snagged a ring in the transfer ports, and funkered everything up, hopefulyl a day or two after we get back from vacation it will be up and running, after 4 months , also my friends banshee's left cylinder went about a month ago...if mine blows this time i think it's oging up for sale, i can't spend another 650.00 on it ~Mark~

it sits towards the outside with no pressure on it, but i figured out my problem, my clutch is much stronger than i expected, and could barely pull it in with 4 springs attached, so all is well in the banshee engine once again , and i have also found a new respect for my clutch cable and lever, that thing really has some weight to pull!! (if you don't believe me reach down there and try to pull in your clutch by the lever on the engine, VERY hard), anyway thanks for all the help, i think i got all i need...except somewhere along the line i seem to have lost my damn stainless bolts that hold on my stator cover ~Mark~

well i pull on the lever(on top of the engine case) and it goes till it lines up with the arrow on the case then stops completely, nowhere in that travel does it even start to move the clutch pressure plate.. ~Mark~

bigboybanshee-where do you get a bore job and pistons for 200 bucks??? it costs me 100 about anywhere for boring, then top end kit(pro-lites) are 150-160...you must be getting a good deal or sumthin.. ~Mark~

i need probably 3 stiffer than stock clutch springs, any brand as long as they're cheap...with the new power i'll be making i would like to slap on 3 heavy springs, Thanks and you can either PM me, or e-mail me at [email protected], i have paypal ~Mark~

actually i quit last night when i got online, had to go blow something up , anyway the black piece i'm talking about has a shaft with the shape of a 12mm nut head ont he end, and the threaded rod with the philips head goes inside it...and so on the inside of that blaxk piece witht he threaded rod should be the ball?? then the long pushrod going towards the clutch arm, right?? i'll have make sure the ball is there, it might have fallen..anyway i have not been able to get it right..whenever i get it together and pull on the arm it goes until it lines up with the arrow(where i set it using the threaded rod with philips end on it) then just stops, you can't force it any farther...thanks 4 the help ~Mark~

my old set of jugs and pro lites had .0040" clearance, that's borderline..my new set is like brand new, but isn't really needed, with the cost of boring then a new top end kit, i woulden't od it, run yours the way they are and i highly doubt you'll crack a skirt, how old is the top end?? ~Mark~

one last question(for the day ), how the hell does my clutch go together?? the pads and stuff are right, but i can't figure out how to put the pressure plate on correctly, do i line up the arrow on the clutch basket with one of the three on the outside big pressure plate?? and how does the nut system work, does the black piece that has the nut then the shaft go on the inside of the pressure plate, with the washer and silver nut on the outside?? also i'll check to see where the ball is, but where is the small steel ball supposed to go?? Thanks again and hope rare can help me out again ~Mark~

i think i got it figured out, thanks for the clutch help, as for the flywheel it was pretty bent, when tightened down it had almost 1/4" of wobble..so we took it off, layed it upside-down in an open bench vice, stuck a small ball peen hammer on the inside of one of the "rivets" that hold the flywheel together, and pounded away on the round end of the ball peen with a 3lb hammer...test fitted a few times and we got it absolutely prefect, it has exactly .018" air gap on all 3 tabs , i was surprised at how it turned out, sinxce it wasn't useable in that condition we figure it was worth a try...anyway thanks again i'll go work now, my friend is on his way to paint my jugs and right side case(the side case will be red again, and the new jugs silver at the bottom fading to red, with a new polished cool head), i'll show u guys some pics when i'm done, should also be super-clean ~Mark~

ok, now that i know i need a new flywheel(mine's bent, anyone got one??? very quick i pay with paypal), what is the toque spec for the big clutch basket nut?? also does it say how to adjust the threaded rod witht he nut at the end?? i'm gonna do it so the 2 arrows line up, if there is more to it then plz tell me, Thanks for the answers, i know it's asking a lot but these should be almost if nott he last questions ~Mark~

lol, sorry about that man i'm in a a rush so i wasn;t thinking correctly, it's good to know mine is the least amount of slop you can have, sweet!!! i've done a lot of WOT logging road riidng, along with overheating at the dunes from drag racing all day long , anyway thanks for the specs, they'll come in very handy ~Mark~

i think your measurement conversion is not right....because .254mm equals .010", basically one side has .010" and one has .009", will that me ok?? it seems to be in good shape, unported jugs, etc.. so it should last without a true and weld, you think so?? plus that would take another 100 bucks, and at least 2 weeks which i really don't have, this has gotta be ready for the en dof the month, DUNEFEST!!! ~Mark~

Thanks rare, i got a couple more for ya, how much play is there supposed to be in the rods?? right where they connect to the crank, between the rod and shim, or the shim and crank..i have a feeler guage so i can check it... Also my stator cover gasket is junk(i use a cascade aluminum stator cover if it matters), and since there is no real pressure in that area, can i just use a bead of good silicone around it?? Thanks ~Mark~

so today i will be putting her together after about 4 montha of downtime, and 650.00 later i have everything i need(new jugs, cool head, etc...) so here they are: How much is the air gap supposed to be for the flywheel and pickup coil?? How many ft. lbs do i torque my flywheel nut? how many ft. lbs for my cylinder and head studs?(i think 20) also torque specs for my wheels, i usually go as tight as i can get em, and have always wondered what "correct" is?...Thanks guys and as the day goes on i'm sure i'll have a few more questions, i would go right now and buy a manual but they need to be ordered from the nearest bike shop, i'm pretty much broke, and i have this site!! l , Thanks again and any help is much appreciated ~Mark~

"Others have made claims of finding larger sturgeon, but the International Game Fishing Association says the largest sturgeon on record is 468 pounds. That fish has also held the record for largest freshwater fish caught." What i can't figure out is why they called a sturgeon a freshwater fish..THEY'RE NOT!!!! ~Mark~

looks like we got a new bansheefreestyler on out hands!! ~Mark~

if you got about 300-500 bucks, check out r/c cars/trucks, look up a hobby shop in your area and see which you like, i love these little cars, if you want something inexpensive(under 200 with some upgrades) i suggest an 1/18th scale mini truck, like the team associated rc18t, or the team losi mini-t, they're both small and electric, plus very upgradeable, i stuck a very fast mamba brushless system on my mini-t with lots of other upgrades, now it should do about 50mph, plus you can run electrics iondoors on shitty days, keep in mind going that fast with a micro is expensive, but not horribly bad compared to 1/10 or 1/8 scale gas vehicles, a monster truck is a very good choice, i suggest a HPI savage, or a Traxxas T-maxx or revo, there is also several different(and cheaper) versions of the nitro powered t-maxx, like the sportmaxx(same thing but 2WD and no reverse), the stadium maxx(same as sportmaxx but track style tires, and better lookin body), and also the e-maxx, basically an electric vresion of the t-maxx, all great trucks with TONS of aftremarket support, especially in aluminum parts, check em out sometime, usually anyone into quads is interested or own's an r/c car, if you have any questions i work at a hobby shop in WA state, shoot me a PM to know more ~Mark~

ssanddemon, have you tried putting some very sticky wheel bearing grease or vaseline around the inside of the grommets?? it'll seal up any air gap since there's small vacuum in that area, it should be fine...i've done it on numerous projects without a problem so far ~Mark~

Zeus my friend, you have a weird family!! ~Mark~

RBD-where are you located?? Also i can't find an e-mail link to patriot racing, or an address, do you know what city they're in?? Thanks ~Mark~