fast87

modquad impellers are 70.00(minus 10% discount), so why not go with a reputable brand like pro design and buy the "trusted" one?? personally i wanna see that 40.00 impeller , i've been lookin at em for a while and 40 bucks is the right price for me..i'll keep an eye out on ebay and let you know if a rash of cheap ones pop up.. ~Mark~

Hey, my local rip off shop charges 115.00(they have to send it away even) to true and weld my banshee crank, that's without replacing bearings, or rods, basically a true and weld, and minor adjustment if needed..sounds a bit much to me, i've heard it is about 50.00 anywhere else, and i have no problem sending it somewhere, as long as it is in either WA state or oregon, i'll look into graves motorsports, since that's where the last owner supposedly got all the previous work done..Thanks ~Mark~

see what you can find on HEIM joints..that might be the answer to your problem...and BTW since you're in WA as well, do you plan on going to the oregon dunefest this summer?? My Webpage ~Mark~

if you decide to sell your current cylinders and buy others, let me know, really!! send me a PM if you sell em, i will almost definately take em..it's either buy another set of jugs or get mine bored, and buy another set of pistons..if anyone needs some NEW prolites .020" over, LMK, and i am very interested in your ported cylinders...LMK if you decide in my favor(in a PM), Thanks ~Mark~

LOL!!! ~Mark~

yours is .020" over, i measured my pistons with the same measurements, on brand new wiseco's...i think they do it slightly smaller to ocmpensate for piston growth, which i heard is 2 and a half thousandths(.025") need any more help LMK, i just honed and measured out 2 sets of cylinders and a new piston set..all .020" over(but one set was .08" too damn much...bought off ebay, seeing if i can return them...be careful buying jugs off ebay) ~Mark~

i doubt it...use a wire brush to clean the VIN area, the title and registration will have it also(if you have either), good luck ~Mark~

but how much for thr crank? i'm pretty much just pricing cranks for now, dun no if mine is that out of whack.. ~Mark~

got any more new/used axle locknuts?? i need one(lost a stocker), also got another billet water pump impeller??..Thanks ~Mark~

also how much for the hot rods crank?? it is stock length rods? stock stroke? also it's trued and welded right? Thanks ~Maek~

i'll take the stock flywheel cover gasket, how much?? where do i send paypal to, and is it new?? Thanks ~Mark~

sorry for the typo guys, but these are .020" over NOT .030" over, stupid me, i just realized what i typed a couple months ago when i started this, and it wont' let me edit the original topic name...so here it is again, these are .020" over NOT .030", sorry again for the confusion and hope i didn't wreck anybody's day, also squish, no thanks on the 101.00 offer ~Mark~

dunno, throw some items out there and i'll et ya know, but i am in the market for either some good used cylinders(must be good, i just got ripped off by some dumbshit on ebay , also will add money for good jugs) i could use some aftermarket handlebars, preferably aluminum, i really can't think of much else..got any used but good shape powerbands layin around?? i just got the stock replacement orange lookin band, was hoping for either the second generation green one, possibly a blue one, but if you have the new red powerband i'd be willing to throw in a little cash , Thanks and LMK what you got, cash is always good and FYI these are going on ebay real soon if you don't want em, for a faster response from me e-mail me at [email protected] ~Mark~

go to 7-eleven and pick up a cycle trader, or go to cycletrader.com, good luck and that's where we buy 99% of our bikes/quads, the other 1% is the newspaper, BTW where in the NW are you located?? ~Mark~

i don't believe so but maybe something to do with the number on top?? if it has any...i do know how to identify wiseco pistons tho, below the wrist pin in the aluminum to the sides of it, there is a "W" stamped with a circle around it.. ~Mark~

i'll be there for sure!!! we already got reservations for 2 other dunes other than winchester bay, then we'll be at winchester bay the day before dunefest, the first day, and half of the second day, then unfortunately we're going home ...i just hope my banshee makes it through the first 2 dunes before dunefest, you'll probably see me at the drag racing area a lot, and racing people up the hills(banshee hill and others) so far there is no hill my trusty shee hasn't been able to haul my ass up(yet), maybe i'll be defeated this year, but i doubt it!! C ya there!! i can't wait man, i'm counting the days!! ~Mark~

if it helps my old cylinders were .020" over, and .50MM's over stock(65MM total), which is 64.50MM...soooo... yours being 65.50MM would make it .040" over, get the measurements for the inside of the bore, then for the outside of the pistons(make sure both cylinders have the same bore, sometimes idiots only do one side, which is bad) and the pistons should be slightly smaller, but i don't know the specs..i do know ring end gap clearace should be at least .004 thousandths(please correct me if i'm wrong), to check this remove one ring, put it in the cylinder as it would normally run, then gently put the piston on top of it to make it square in the bore, you need feeler guages to check the clearances. if that is correct then you most likely have the right pistons, and should start looking at different directions before spending another 160.00 on more pistons..good luck and let us kow how it goes, i just bought a set of cylinders off ebay that are supposedly .020" over with no pistons(i bought new wiseco prolites) so i hope i don't get burned....the best price i can get locally is 180.00 to bore them and the shop has been known to do egg-shaped cylinders and think nothing of it...wish me luck when they get here and i'll do the same for you, be sure to let the seller know what's going on, he might have forgotten to tell you something... ~Mark~

i was surprised to see at my local half-ass dealer they had cascade products for the banshee, and the clutch cover stainless allen headed bolt kits for onyl 5.00!! so i bought one, i already have stainless allens for the other side so that's all i needed, plus i'm willing to bet you can't buy all those 9 bolts at a hardware store for under 5.00 in stainless...just another FYI post, good luck and they look like good wuality and i think they tale a 4mm or 4.5mm hex wrench, if you want a nice wrench go to a hobby shop(R/C car place) with a screa dnsee if they have or can order the right wrench for you, most of them have nice aluminum handles for about 8 bucks a pop ~Mark~

you need a TORS removal kit, i dunno who makes em but check ebay they have many listed...you also need a drill and tap for the idle screws, because the TORS regulated the idle, now you need to put in the supplied screws, and i think you need to buy the right drill bit and the right tap for the idle screws..but shoulden't take you more than a few hours start to finish, it'd help if someone experienced with mechanics can help you if you don't think your skills are enough, good luck and don't funker it up!! ~Mark~

That's what i'm here for ~Mark~

i woulden't advise it, but you can ride with a broken bone or two, just be careful and no jumps or powersliding, also i am in no way, shape, or form responsible for any further injuries you may suatain , lol, anyway i broke my arm, and fractured my wrist in 6 places, 2 weeks after i got the complete arm cast i was riding my banshee again , i just had to swivel my body to the right and lean forward(cast was on left arm from wrist to my shoulder), but either way i never got hurt, hell i even rode jet skis over memorial weekend that year and got lucky enough not to fall in, i think my mom and the doctor would have killed me if they knew what i was doing good luck and get well soon, don't let something small like a broken bone stop ya!! ~Mark~

Hey westerngoods, i live in aberdeen, WA, that's not too far from you..anyway the banshee is a 2 stroke and the craptor is a 4 stroke...that's about it...but really banshee's have tons of top end which makes trail riding do-able but tricky, raptors have smooth power all the way to the top but they're a taller, bigger, and clumsier machine...i've ridden both(i own a banshee) and prefer the banshee just because i only ride logging roads and dunes occasionally, good luck with your decision and as much as i hate to turn away the banshee, in your case it hink a 4 stroke would be better, have you looked into the polaris predator or th 400EX?, also if you get a raptor make sure it's not a 2001 or older, they have serious tranny problems(if that's the correct years, second gear always blows out, the newer ones have fixed that) ~Mark~

i'm cheap and own a welder so i cut some i think 1/2 or 3/4" long pieces of a big hex wrench(as wide as the old rubber pieces were, so everything lined up), cut and burned off the old rubber on all 4 of my stock mounts, then clamped the mounts in a bench vise with the pieces of buig hex wrench between them and proceeded to put big globs on weld all over them , to my surprise it has held up over 2 years and yes my welding skills have increased , also if you weld the top of the rear hangers it's hard to get a socket on there without grinding away some glob of weld to make the socket fit..anyway they work now and i rattled canned em silver, which is now rusting...ahh maybe i'll look for some good ones at dunefest this year ,s ince i'll be hacking off my front fenders the glos will be more noticeable ~Mark~

what o don't get is in your sponsor list there is elka and works connection...as far as i know you only have 1 sponsor for 1 thing, like shocks, works connection and elka make em right?? i don't think i'm the only one when i think your sponsor list was pulled out of your ass ~Mark~

ahh dammit....too much money has been put into this thing as it is..i think i'll put it on just to make sure it's bent, i didn't actually pull it off with the jaw puller, i was afraid i would od damage and alked my dad into waiting for the right one...which got it off in about 20 seconds..Thanks for the replies and could it bdnt the crank if the flywheel was bent?? ~Mark~