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it dont matter what you run for the most part, as long as it gets down the track. Sure it needs a little work, and some gearing and some tires, but thats how you work bike lengths into it after the first race. You could build a piece of shit with leftover parts you have laying around for 1500 bucks and it'll be good for 5 passes down the strip.

is it just me or does that new banshee have new shocks on it? Maybe its just the way the picture looks?

put the sparkplugs in them and use them to drop it all down. They should fit snugly but they can slip in and out. it's a lot easier to hold all together if you have an extra hand to help you, but the sparkplugs usually help pretty good

do you have an aftermarket filter setup? If not you need to keep the front part of the lid to secure the air filter. Amazing how much that lid does huh? You should probably jet up 2-3 main jet sizes with the airbox lid removed.....its probably running lean

I'd have to agree for you to get a 660 Raptor. There are a ton of them out there, you'll be able to ride just as long with fuel as your buddies without getting a bigger tank, and their are a ton of parts out there for them. Banshees are great and their is nothing like them, but they are a ton of maintenance. If you dont go to big with the engine, they can last you years and years, but they are just old technology and buzzing vibrating bees. I always seem to come to the conclusion that about for every hour of riding you'll do about 3 hours of wrenching.....less if you're lucky. There are things out there to overcome every possible thing that is wrong with the banshee, from frames to a-arms to swingarms to motor parts and you can make it suit your riding style, and you'll have one of the best engines ever thrown into an atv chassis underneath you....but everything costs a dollar.

I've got a flywheel and stator off a 2001. Whats the condition of it?

If you are sure your jets are clean, and they are close to being sync'd (by sound and sight) and the one still smokes a tiny bit more than the other you are probably a victim of the stock carb syndrome. We went over this a couple years back extensively with a couple of us, and eliminated any possible answer as to why the one side smoked a tiny bit more than the other. The only conclusion we could come to is that the casting of the 2 different carbs with the choke assembly and such was causing one side to run a tiny bit richer than the other side. We bought new carbs and every single one of us, the problem went away. I'm not saying this is your problem, because their are a ton of factors that could cause it to do it that need to be eliminated first, but it is something to keep in mind.

all I ride is trails for the most part and there are a couple key factors you are going to need. 1. Your pipes. I run LRD because they tuck nicely into the frame where I've seen a lot of PT mids get dented pretty bad (once saw one that kept the cylinder barely firing). I run a lot of rocky crazy terrain (hatfield-McCoy trails) but if you run pretty much in the open without a ton of rocks, pt mids are a good pipe. The LRD's are adjustable in which they adjust as to where your powerband comes on. They have a very smooth powerband hit over a couple hundred rpm (more like a 4stroke) which make them very smooth in the woods, and you can adjust them to keep it in your sweet spot for your riding style. Basically instead of adjusting your riding to your pipes, you can adjust your pipes to your riding style and habits. That and they have the top end of T5's. 2. reed system. Ideally go for some vforce2's or 3's but if you are on a budget, get some dual stage epoxy boyeson's. The stock reeds flat out suck for responsiveness. Put new reeds in over stock and it'll be like riding a new quad. 3. Suspension. I run a +2 setup with works tripples with rezzies and offset rims in the front and back. I keep my back end a little smaller than my front end which has helped me turn in tight areas a lot better. They say not to do it because it'll make your front end loose at high speeds, but i've personally never noticed a problem. The extra stability and better shock is amazing compared to stock, I'd never go back to it again. I wouldnt be able to with the type of riding I encounter. 4. Compression and timing. I boosted both some and it seems to run a lot smoother and the extra compression has given it more torque down low. The extra power all around is nice when you need it. 5. Ditch the air box lid and get a foam filter. I've had so many problems with K&N's having dirt and crap in my intake system. I ride in coal sometimes too and their is always coal soot in my intake tract with a K&N. Get a outerwears cover in place of the air box lid and it'll keep most everything out of the airbox. 6. When you finally go there, get a good woods port. I got mine with a little lift for the extra power on the top end. I didnt want to sacrifice low end power, but when I hit the open trails I wanted to be able to really rev it out. You can go with some taperbored 30mm carbs before the portwork and feel an increase in power, but you'll really feel it with the portwork. The stock carbs just kinda suck compared to a good aftermarket flowing carb. also if you ride with 4strokes and depending how long and far you go out. Think about getting an oversize tank. I've got a 5.5 and can run all day long with the 4strokes now without refueling. They actually run out of fuel before me now. We'll all strap 2.5 gallons on our back in back packs (and empty them into tanks every chance we get) and go out from camp at dawn, and not return until dusk. The one trail we ride has a gas station at the one trail entrance, so I'll bring exta oil in one gallon increments to refuel. Kick up pegs, odi lock on grips, handlebar lighting so it'll point where your going, I run mudsharks in the rear and havent found a better hooking tire that will hook when the edges wear off the tire. They are a little soft but hook until they are beat. They stand up to rocks pretty good too. I run kevlar lined pure sports bandits in the front. I've tried tons of tires and they all just spin when the edges wear off. Except realtors....but thats a different story.

must be nice to have time to burn..... I've been running non stop since 3:30 friday morning and its now Wednsday. I average 4-5 hours of sleep. Only time I can get on here is between 3:45-4:00 in the morning to check the weather for the day, and look at 1 or 2 threads on here. My son is still taking a nap right now and my fiance is picking my daughter up from work so I got a brief chance to pop on here again. Anybody with extra time can feel free to come over any time and start ripping my shee apart for me so I can rebuild it. Thats always fun.

whats up flash, long time no see. Cant remember did you cut down that black (and yellow?) shee you had or sell it? Bought another one? Got any pictures still of that shee? It's been a while....my memory is a little hazy

if he doesnt want it, I'll take it. Been looking to get a stainless for a while now....cant rely on the rubber anymore

As long as you can still put banshee plastic on it, and a banshee engine in it (even in the case of the bottom end being changed and machined to be triple cylinder) its still a banshee Frame shouldnt matter, aftermarket frames are built for all sorts of different environments I know I wouldnt mind having a 250R geometry frame. It ends up using all 250R chassis parts, banshee radiator, plastic, and engine. You look at it and it still looks like a banshee but something just seems meaner. Go to an atv drag race. Watch all the quads pull up to the line. A banshee pulls up with a drag chassis and you arent going to call it a banshee?

isnt a stock tank 3.5 gallons? The 4 gallon one looks nice, but with the cost and the loss of airflow is it worth the extra half gallon? I just have two sets of plastic, one I run with my 5.6 tank and one with my stock. When we go and ride down at Hatfield-McCoy sometimes you get hours away from camp. I'll take that big tank and still strap 2 gallons to my back. We ride with 4 strokes, who also strap 2 gallons to their back and we'll be gone from sun up to sun down. Yeah....we're a bunch of molatove cocktails going down the trail.....but what are ya gonna do if you wanna explore some of the far reaches of the trail system.

they cant put tires in the landfill, whoever you gave them to knew they were worth at least a couple bucks in weight for the aluminum rims. I work for a trash company, drive a recycle truck actually. Trash guys never throw away the copper, most save up about 50-100 bucks a month in copper scrap. I've found all sorts of things in the trash. My brand new 300 dollar echo weedwacker that some dumbass ran straight gas through it. My edger, leaf blower, shovels that just needed a quick sharpening. My old computer that my daughter is using (20 inch monitor, pentium 2), my soda machine, car stereo equipment, and many more things that I cant think of. I've gotten brand new couches from "family rooms" that have the gate in front of the room that have been sat on like 10 times their whole life. They get thrown out because they want to change the look of the room. The richer the development, the richer the trash. I only get to see whats on the outside of the trash containers because I do recycling. If I saw what was inside the containers, I could probably start a lucrative ebay business. You'd be surprised what people throw out.

where do I get a paper towel with hearts on it, I have all the other parts, just cant find the towel :biggrin:

sounds like an air leak, check your intake boots are your tors disconnected? Little black box in front of the fuel petcock, disconnect that and see if it goes away

If you are sure your carbs are in sync, it may be the dreaded hidden carb casting flow difference. There's been many threads over the years about one side putting out a little more smoke than the other (running a little richer), not much but when its cold and warmed enough you can ride and still putting out smoke, you notice it. It goes away with a carb change, only thing we've been able to come up with over the years is that the difference in the castings changes the flow somehow and will make one run a tiny richer than the other. I'm not saying for sure it is with yours, but its something to think about. Easiest way to check sync is take the air filter off and look and listen to hear them hit bottom at the same time, and lift off at the same time.

send pics to [email protected]

how old are the pwk's? Choke seal could also be bad causing an air leak. Check to see that you have good flow coming out of the gas tube going into the carb, then check to make sure float bowl isnt sticking, if you have that tube is that connected?, if all other options fail then you probably have an air leak. If you put a little gas in the spark plug hole does the cylinder fire easily? AT least it runs and its just limited to that one side to try to figure out. Gotta be a fuel/air issue

lol....good to see you got it. Thats one of the first questions I always ask. It's so easy to forget when you're doing bigger things, but once you forget once you'll never forget again. I put my vforce in and put it all back together and couldnt get it to fire in the right cylinder and it just plain ran like crap when I could get it to start for like 10-15 minutes. Happened to look back at my rear tire and the tube was laying inbetween the lugs. Started right up afterward. Makes you feel like a dumbass afterward huh?

I'd stick with the keihin. It's probably bigger ( I think they came stock with a 26, same as a banshee) Sounds like a good quad, just needs some cleaning up and some tlc

so you got the rev problem figured out? How is it slipping? Is the engine cycling while you're pushing it? Does it push the same with the clutch lever pulled in as when the clutch is engaged?

definitely a good deal man. What year is it? Make sure the brakes are working on it. Even if they arent its still a good deal. The rear brake will always go bad, its a pos, but as long as the fronts work, and even if you have to rebuild them you'll be ahead of the game. I bought one with a shattered piston for 300 bucks. Pulled the engine and cleaned the bottom out as good as possible (piece was wedged in the bottom holding the crank still). Threw a new top end on it and rode the piss out of it until I got tired of not being able to keep up with my buddies on it (still had a 250R 3wheeler when we really went riding), and then sold the R and the blaster and bought the banshee. It's definitely a good quad to start out on, especially if you're gonna play with 2 strokes. I'd say see how bad that crank is, if you have to, buy a good used one, throw a new top end on it and go off riding. A bigger carb, reeds, and pipe do it wonders.

Get a nac's bead breaker and 2 tire irons. One of the best investments I ever made. The harbor freight changer works good, but its not that portable. When you're out in the mountains, or in the desert, or basically anywhere you can get the tire off the rim and fixed. and it takes up no room whatsoever. It's actually quite easy with the beadbreaker (make sure you get a nac's, there are imitations out there everywhere, but they tend to slip a lot, its worth the couple extra bucks). I can change a tire from pulling it off my shee to putting it back on in about 5-10 minutes including seating the new bead. I had a brand new set of realtors that I hit a rock and put a gash in the side that took more than 8 plugs to get it to hold enough air to get me back to camp without hurting my rim or taking a couple hours doing 5 mph. Popped the tire off and patched the hell out of the inside, threw my extra set of tires on for the rest of the day, and the next day the realtor tire was good as new.

lol....I was sitting here eating pizza and all of a sudden it came to me blewtrannies.com thanks for the help guys