.

got a 2001 shee and some cash if he's interested. Shee has a little bit of work done to it (pipes, coolhead, axle, etc)

definitely get bigger mains in there. Also get an outerwears for the filter and also you can custom rig up another outerwears for a cover or they might actually make one for our airbox now. I havent done it yet, but I'm just taking my lid and cutting everything except the outer edge out and running an outerwears over my airbox.

Honda has a nonsynthetic 2 stroke oil (can only buy it in quarts though) DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC TO BREAK IT IN I always believe in pushing an engine. I do 2 heat cycles just varying the throttle a little bit off idle (10-15 min, make sure the cylinders get nice and warm) and then let cool, at the end of the 2nd cycle I retorque everything. Then start giving the engine throttle. You'll feel where your engine doesnt want to go yet in the rpm band, it'll start to break up on you. Vary the throttle and back off if you hear the slightest feeling of it breaking up. Every time you bring the throttle up you should be able to push it a little farther. After the 3rd heat cycle I start giving it load (start riding it around in first) and keep pushing the rpm band until its broken in. I run 5 whole gallons of the non synthetic oil and then switch over to a semi synthetic.

I mean, I guess you could do that? Are yours stripped or something? Theres always a helicoil to the rescue if so

dude, if your shaft threads arent messed up, you didnt rev the engine once after the sprocket came out of the chain. I was doing donuts and mine came off (lock tabs were shot, shoulda got a new one to begin with), by the time my engine revved down and my 4wheeler stopped moving my threads were shot. I bet if you go back to exactly where you lost it, you'll find it laying right there somewhere. Front sprockets are cheap anyway though

whatever, go with the xc.....its kevlar lined from bead to bead. Only front tire I've ever owned that I havent gotten a flat with. If your not worried about flats....theres better tires out there....but for reliability in the areas I run....I need something thats gonna take the punishment. My only dissapointment in them is that they are a flat tire and not rounded from the outer edge to the center like a holeshot is. They tend to want to push in the mud and such.

pull the gas tank and spark plugs off as well.....it makes things a hell of a lot easier When putting it back in, make sure you tape some rags around the frame rails so you dont bang them up.

you aint gettin a banshee to float.....I know it for a fact....unless you but some really really big balloon tires on it though. I did however have a 185s threewheeler that would float on water....was pretty cool, if the water got to deep, I'd just get off and use the throttle to spin across the water till I could get back on again

good choice, my uncle has the same tv....mitsu has made a very nice product for many many years

my dog likes to play fetch with the one I got with a bunch of other stuff I bought

an easy thing also to do is buy the kick up extensions and bolt them to your stock pegs. I have a pair of chrome pegs that have worn down teeth that I put the kickups on and havent slipped a peg since. 99% of your slips are going to start off by your foot going sideways.

congratulations on making it another year

get some dual stage reeds or vforce's, tires for your conditions is money well spent, cool head with 21 or 20cc domes (dont go high compression on stock pistons, it'll tear'em up eventually, stick with pump gas) You could get a rear shock. Could find some nice used a-arms and shocks for a little more probably. I dunno.....there's a ton of stuff you can do

It's hard....if he really would want to pursue racing 4wheelers, bringing him up on a 4stroke might be the way to go. It would be nice if GNCC came out with a 2 stroke type class for the 250R's and such that you can get for a fraction of the cost of what it was to build them just because their is no competitive use for them anymore One thing is for certain though.....he will know how to ride a 2 stroke as well. I'll probably start him off on a blaster as far as 2 strokes go (cheap and their a dime a dozen) and then step him up to my fiance's banshee.....and eventually he'll be allowed to ride mine.

thanks man....he's the main reason I havent been around on here for the last few months.... It's nice to get back on here once in a while....but being away because of him is worth every moment

how much for just the crank? and condition? I have some ported polished jugs that I need a good reliable crank for.

and passed out afterward............

William Edgar Schmidt, born oct 27, 2005 at 7lbs 13 oz and 20 inches long He's now 3 1/2 months and weighs 15.5 lbs and is 25 inches long....he's gonna be a big boy....70th percentile....not fat at all....just real thick First pic is in his eagles getup at 2 months old....he's got a pacifier for it too. And the other 2 he's 3 months and are from his grandmothers house smiling and partying....and at home afterward passed out from the partying

I took the stock ones I had and rebent them to fit my +2 arms, wasnt fun and the metal is probably a little weaker now.....but it worked. They arent armadillo....there the other big name....cant remember off hand. There the ones with the shock linkage protection on the swingarm skids

where are you located? What kind of vehicles can it hold?

are you getting porting? If your just rebuilding have a local machine shop do it.

where you live? There's people on here all across this country that if in driving distance wouldnt mind helping someone rebuild your shee for a beer or a smoke. If not, we can take you through the steps quite easily. Do a search on here, I know I've written down the steps basically. Its incredibly simple. Take off plastics, gas tank, carbs, intake, drain coolant, head, cylinders, pistons.....and then put back together again. When you pull the cylinders, take them to a machine shop. Stock bore is 64mm. They will tell you what size pistons you need. Order the pistons and then take them back to the machine shop and have them bore the cylinders to the pistons. (tighter bore that way). Buy a dirtwheels magazine, there's tons of wiseco kits that come with the bearing shipped to your door for 150 bucks. cylinders need to be torqued to 10, 15, and then 20 lbs, and the same with the head (follow the number sequence on the top of the stock head, and when taking the stock head off, back them off from 10 to 1 so you dont warp the head) My banshee ran with 60 lbs in one cylinder and 95 in the other cylinder so the compression might be right....but you should buy a tester anyway

go to the honda dealership and get there transmission/gear oil that comes in the red bottle with the squeeze top. Best oil I've ever run. Lasts for a good long time and its close to ATF, just more additives for the hardcore use its under. I've gone through 3 top ends now (none premature), and the stock clutches are just starting to wear to the point that when I put my stroker crank in they wont hold up.

I've got a trail tech big bar mount with the keyhole and the bar mount hit the upper part of the tank. I dont know if your talking about in the same spot, but I took a piece of metal and drilled 2 holes in it and put it behind where my steering stem mount went to bring my bars forward a little bit till it just cleared. Sounds like you guys are talking about the same thing though.

listen to what meat said and make sure you talk to someone who knows what they are talking about if you go ordering connecting rods/cranks and all that good stuff. Last thing you'd want is to kick it over for the first time and the piston is hitting the head and you gotta rip the whole thing apart again and get the right parts