.

I hate OCC.....their bikes look like shit, in all the shows they've made like 2 cool bikes, the firefighter bike, and the lawnmower engine bike.....the rest look like crap. I guess thats what you get when you have a bunch of idiots building bikes. Jesse James has an attitude....but you know what.....he had it long before the show ever popped up.....hell he had it when he was a kid. At least that man can fab a bike from scratch and isnt buying pre made frames, tanks, fenders, wheels, etc etc etc. He's had great influences around him and builds a chopper the way a chopper should be built.

DAMNT......I TOLD THEM WHITE RAD PLASTIC.....NOT TANK PLASTIC......they never listen.

ah well....I woulda paid more for it.....but I was gone all weekend

I want the a-arms and shocks! Where you moving to man?

the stuff on the stator cover, that is yamaha's cheap casesaver. Get a polyurethane one (that rossman guy the one that sells the poly ones on ebay?) They work much better than the aluminum ones. The white piece is just a cover for a hole for the tachometer on the rz350 streetbikes Those bolts are for tightening and loosening the chain, Loosen the upper and lower bolts that hold the carrier to the swingarm, loosen the outer nut on the (chain adjusters) and then turn the inner one in to tighten. You want to have them adjusted the same to make sure your axle is straight. I usually just count the threads on the inner bolt to make sure. Buy a pivot works rear axle bearing kit, they are pretty good bearings and hold up pretty long. The All Balls ones are crap....they didnt last me a couple days of beating on them hard. Get yourself a hunk of brass like mentioned and a hand sledgehammer and bang on them a couple times and they should come right out. Get some PB Blaster (penetrating lubricant, can get at walmart or pep boys), and spray it on the outside of the bearings after you pull the seals out. It'll make your job a lot easier. To put the bearings in, I got a piece of pipe that was just a hair smaller than the carrier and about 3 inches long, and I bang them in with that, making sure to keep the bearing straight going in. DONT FORGET TO PUT THE INNER RACE TUBE BACK IN BEFORE YOU PUT THE 2ND BEARING IN. I use a rubber mallet for the seals, one or 2 good pops and their usually in. Make sure they are seated against the bearing all the way, or your sprocket and brake hub wont go in all the way.

You have until the end of the weekend to contact me. I havent received the crank yet and you've disappeared. Hope your not stealing money from me....I work hard for my cash

I've got that exact set and everybody on here should get one. It made installing and tuning my cam a dream compared to the old make sure you tie a rope on the timing chain so it doesnt drop down into the bottom end method. Great find.....this should be a stickie!

all I can say is that it better have white radiator plastic. I emailed them every day for months telling them.....I'm sure they had to be sick enough of hearing it that they put it on.....probably not though

dont worry....I'll remember to bring this up when you want to know something in Repairs & Mods It's nice that its different from all your buddies, but there are a million other things you could do to your quad to make it look different. Go look in images at pictures. Do all the shee's look the same? Seriously though, if you really like it, you like it. My one buddy kind of likes how it looks from the side, and from the side, it doesnt look horrible. It's the front view that gets to me, and its mainly down at the bottom in the front where there is all that solid plastic. Do you honestly really think it looks good? or are you just at the point that you just spent some good coin on plastic to look different and its to late to back out now? I'm not razzing you, just trying to understand? If you do truly like it, what do you like about it? Laker plastic looks completely different than stock, but still holds the stock lines, I'm really considering some for my girls shee for the rebuild

see if its still connected (little black box in front of the gas tank on the stator side of the bike)

lol......THEN SELL YOUR GIRL!

got a set from a 2001 (white springs), were run for about 8 months in the woods, I'm not much of a jumper, couple nicks n stuff probably on them. 70 + shipping and they're yours. Thats what they're going for on ebay, it'll save the hassle and you know your getting quality shocks that arent beat. let me know

PUT THE BANSHEE IN THE HOUSE FOR FURNITURE!

He's from Vancouver, Wa If this dude dont answer my emails or if a crank dont show up by friday things are going to get very ugly. Mail fraud will definitely be an issue, and If I have to I'll buy a plane ticket out there to see this out in person. I dont care if it was 50 bucks or 500.....dont fuck with my money

its for my girls shee actually. Here's the site where I'm lookin at powders: http://www.tigerdrylac.com/fileadmin/USA/T...f/specialfx.pdf Was lookin at the sparkle copper (2/3'rds down) and then a transparent candy raspberry over it. Gonna do silver and a shade of pink or something for the plastics.

Thats where your wrong. The right comparison would be that your at a bubblegum blowing contest and you can either buy a piece of wrigley's for 50cents or a thing of bubbletape for 1.50 It all depends if you wanna sit there cracking your gum or blow some decent bubbles......

gonna get a frame powdercoated, just trying to think what looks good on the shee powdered the same color. I know the hubs, but what else?

If you bought a 2-1 pipe and want something that will pull longer and not sacrifice that low end power.....look into some LRD's as well....not a better woods pipe out there in my opinion. Pull incredibly hard out of the powerband and will pull in the powerband as long as t5's. wes you have 20cc domes and are at 180 psi at 900 ft? I'm at the same height and running the 19's I had only put me at 170. I'm running 21's now and it sits at like 150. I wonder what the difference is thats causing that much compression difference between our bikes. With compression, you gotta watch out if your still running your stock top end/crank. I ran my bike for 2 hard years probably before I put the coolhead on and bumped it to 170. Within 6 months I was putting a new top end in. That compression will tear apart a stock piston. It did for me at least. The crank was still good, but that much compression is known to tear apart a crank as well.

yeah, I was gonna say....there were some shee's running 4.5-4.6 at like 70-75 mph in 300 feet of dirt down at the Hatfield-McCoy drag track

yeah, I've probably got 2 or 3 of those clutch arms and springs and stuff

your pm box is full

Put it this way.....when I was down at hatfield-McCoy I was following around 400ex's with a 5 gallon tank and rode in 4th and 5th gear the whole day basically. If I was giving it 1/3 throttle I was giving it to much. I rode out of powerband basically the whole time I was down there.....except one day. One day we blazed up the trails (my buddy on his 250R and me) He burnt 3 gallons and I burned 5 gallons in 1 1/2 hours....compared to the 3-4 gallons in 5 hours of riding

It will make it a lot louder and not do much of anything else. Nothing you'd notice anyway.

no offense, but I'd rather spend the extra coin and get it revalved/sprung for my weight and riding style

your tors might have went bad as well. Usually happens after a upgrade where you play around with the carbs or something