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fire fighters shouldnt jump to conclusions about the fuel canisters....they should research it first Good luck in your rebuilding. How old are your kids? Dont be afraid to ask for help here, we're all a big family community here and would be more than willing to help in any way possible. From toys to clothes to necessities. You gotta concentrate on the big things, at least let us help with the little things.

is your choke tube connected between the 2 carbs......easy to check and easy to forget to put back on.

In honor of Meat's site going down......I think its only fitting that all Brooke's should give it a 2 boobie salute

My buddy has tsl radials on his 94 full size blazer and that thing goes through anything in 2 wheel drive....they love the mud and just grab hard. If you're going to be driving it on the road, I'd definitely go with the radial version They arent that noisy on the road either

I'll start by saying......I'm taking my balls and going home

If you dont want to go the whole grease fitting route, I would recommend getting a new sleeve anyway, and sand down your axle where the sleeve and bearings all sit so its nice and smooth. Take the new sleeve and drill holes in it like described in your other post. Just enough in different spots to get the grease in there. pull off the inside of the sealed bearings and install one of them, pack the carrier with grease, MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE SLEEVE IN NEXT, and then install the other bearing with open side in. Install the seals and then install the axle. It'll be messy packing the axle with grease and then putting the slide in, but it'll keep everything well lubed in there, and you wont be forcing grease through the outer seals of the bearings every time you pump grease.

I'm confused, how can you spray it at the pilots? Are you setting the gas tank to run or reserve? If you had an oil settling problem or something, it probably would still be at the bottom of the tank and if you put it on run, the tube in the tank that pulls from should be high enough to not suck that oil or whatever build up you have. If you clean the carbs and it runs good for a while, I'd say something is clogging the carbs up. Do you know where the pilots are? I'm guessing it has something to do with your slide position since your tors are removed maybe? Theres a screw you have to drill and tap and put in when you remove the tors. Is that what you're talking about? What size pilot is in the carb and what are all your engine improvements again?

ay ay ay.....so much good and bad information in this thread. The grease zerk is a great idea, and make sure you remove the inner seal. And drilling holes in the sleeve is a GREAT idea and greatly beneficial in keeping your axle from freezing to the sleeve and making it impossible to get your axle out. Trust me, the next time you change your bearings and your axle just slides right out, you'll be thankful you drilled a couple holes. As far as getting the axle out, dont bang on the end of the axle with a hammer unless you have a brass hammer and make sure the nut is flush with the edge of the axle. If you dont use brass, you can almost guarantee unless you hit completely flush every time that you can screw up the threads. And you'll have to go to the dealership for the die to clean them up cause its not something you'll find easy. Putting the bearings in the freezer is a great idea and will help a lot, just gotta keep them in there until your ready. Getting the bearings out, I ground down an extension so its pointed a little on the one side, use a screwdriver to slide the sleeve out of the way and work my way around the bearing on the other side till it comes out. Spraying pb blaster around the outside of the bearing will get it moving easier as well. Once you have the one out, I just use a socket and an extension to pop the other bearing out and to install the new ones. Throw some grease in the carrier and rub it around with your finger and make sure their are also no burrs. You can use the whole thread and bolts and washers but I dont change my bearings enough to go through making that up....and I'm to lazy.

I glued those rubbers in after I kept loosing the 2 front ones. Havent lost them since, Instead of banging on my frame, I just put a little duct tape on the plastic latch part of my seat as well. Tightened it right up. Every once in a blue moon it starts to wear a little bit and I just put another strand of tape on. Guess I could bang the metal piece down a little bit as well. I dont like stressing metal though

if you clean the pilots and still no go, before you go buying new rubber for the intakes and such, get it running with the choke and spray some ether or carb cleaner around the intakes and on the choke pull and see if your engine rpm goes up. Thats a good way to check for an air leak

that and make sure the choke tube between the two carbs is connected

I hear what your saying but you also gotta understand what your dealing with. There's a reason they are working a cash register at a gas station.....and even if they were good at math....for what they are getting paid, do you really expect them to try to hard?

congratulations man....its one of the proudest feelings you'll ever have. There's only two things in this world that can make me grin from ear to ear, one being when I hit powerband on my shee, and the other when you sit back and watch your kids. It's up to you, but its good to find out if you're having a boy or a girl as far as buying stuff for the nursery and all that, but as far as the baby shower goes you might not want to let everyone else know what you're having. If you let them know, all you will get is clothes. Not saying thats a bad thing, but we got so many clothes for my boy this last time that there wasnt enough days to wear all the stuff, and he was a pretty big baby and we got a lot of stuff that barely fit when he was born. If you dont say what it is, they cant get boy/girl stuff. You'll still get some, but you'll get a lot of stuff that is really needed, like a monitor, diapers, and all the stuff on your registry. Not trying to sound stuck up or anything, I appreciate everything that was done and everything given, just telling what happened. Once again man, congratulations, its a great feeling

do they have the naval jelly there that comes in the tube as a paste? I hate using the gel crap I have

I'd say you'd have depending on portwork and how it flows somewhere around 70 or so. I have more of a trail port with some top end scream added to it and my builder using 30mm carbs and shearer inframes pulled 68 hp with the setup. I'd say you have more than 60 definitely. I know just with my LRD pipes and a filter on a stock shee they will produce 9hp above stock and you'll have a peak of 18 hp at a certain rpm. Considering stock is 35-37, your looking at 55 for a peak hp number. Just food for thought

get a rust remover for chrome, many parts stores have it, wal mart used to carry it as well. Get one of those drill buffers and go to town. I use a fine steel wool to clear up some of the heavier rust spots and then finish it off with the buffing wheel. If they are beyond saving (a lot of times they look worse then they actually are, usually rust sits on top of the chrome, the tiniest pit will make a big rust mark, and when buffed down, looks like a pin hole that you can barely see.) But like I said, if its to the point that you rust is flaking and stuff, a wire wheel and some high temp paint would be the way to go.

wasnt there one too about riding through grandma's garden patch or something set to some funny music?

yeah, theres much better ones out there than that one.....thats just a small taste

I run a trail bike and did a lot of research on getting a 2 in 1. For the most part a 2 in 1 will not help you at all on the bottom end compared to a well tuned 2 carb setup. They have actually researched this quite a bit at LRD and used to have a big article about it on their website. For a trail setup, twin taperbored 28's to 30's are the best setup to run. (this is a trail setup though and not drag racing) As far as a drag racing setup goes, with guys that are running 34's and higher, It would be hard to get a single carb to perform as efficiently as 2 carbs with that much flow going on. You'd have to have a huge carb in a small area as well, and it can be done, and probably if you sat there long enough with carbs, and tuning on a dyno, you could get them practically the same no matter what setup you're running, but as far as drag goes, the 2 carbs are going to be an easier setup all the way around as far as experience with tuning goes on here

thats funny, I just brought him up the other day. I used to have a copy of a lot of the videos that were on here on my old computer until the hard drive fried and I couldnt get any information off of it.

it's so photoshopped its funny....actually pretty poor for dirtwheels standards. why would you even want a 4 stroke thats only 50cc bigger than a yfz450 called a banshee....

I forgot to put the washer back in once and my banshee still ran, Yours might be beveled and not letting it seal at all though. Just another thought, did you put the choke tube back between the 2 carbs? Easy mistake to make and it'll make the one side not run.

no, none at all. I've got a brand new top end and pistons I'll trade you for them though. :thumbsup: Really though, they are ported by LRD (dont think they make their own cylinder), and produce somewhere around 15 hp more than stock depending on the setup

look in dirtwheels or talk to guys on here, you should be able to get a rebuild kit shipped to your door around 150 dollars including bearings and top end gasket kit. pull the cylinders, take them to a local machine shop (if your in the lansdale, souderton, montgomeryville area I can recommend some places) and get them mic'd and see what you can get away with for bore size. Order the pistons and when you get them, take them back to the machinist and make sure he bores the cylinders to his mic'd specs of the pistons. pistons read to the hundredths, but you can bore to the thousandths.....thats why you have to mic each individual piston.

I'd say its not worth to incredibly much being completely stock. If it was all original equipment and the thing had never seen the dirt, it might be worth a lot. I know a 250R with basically everything aftermarket around here goes between 3500-5000 in PA. The prices dropped on them when everyone went to 4stroke in racing. If its in really good shape and you being in CA, I'd say around 2500?