.

The 19's I had put my compression at inbetween 160-165. They put me right at the point of running race gas. When I was running my 19's I always mixed in a gallon of race to 5 gallons just to be safe. Mainly for the fact that the race gas has a lot of non detonation properties to it. You gotta remember that the compression isnt going to be up there until the rings seat. I checked compression on my fresh top end before I ever started it and it was right around 100. When the rings seated it went up to 160 or so and climbed every heat cycle until I got some gas through it. Just follow the break in process like I told you and you should be alright. Just a thought but what kind of pre mix are you running? You shouldnt really be using a synthetic for break in (honda makes a nonsynthetic premix that you can buy at a honda dealer), but at least run a semi synthetic for break in. If you run a full synthetic you can chance not letting your rings seat as well as they possibly can and you'll end up with blow by easier. It always gets me when people have run an engine for a year and when they take it apart they say how it really looks good, you can still see the crosshatches from honing it. Your rings are supposed to wear those crosshatches away and thats what creates the seating of the rings.

Just wanted to add, if you cant keep it idling, you can adjust the screw on your thumb throttle (cable adjustment), to hold the throttle so your thumb doesnt get tired for that 15 minutes. Be ready to drop it back down because it'll start to bring the throttle up after a couple minutes and it finds its idle.

yeah, sometimes it doesnt want to fire right away, make sure you vary the throttle but on the initial heat cycle (15 min or so until the cylinders and head get nice and hot), just blip the throttle up and down and you may have to give it a tiny bit of throttle to keep it running. Let it cool down and then repeat the process, giving a tiny bit more throttle and let it cool down. Check head bolts for torque and then get on and ride around your yard for 15 minutes varying throttle and giving it a little more throttle. You'll feel if you push it to far.....it can only break in so fast so dont try to push it, the engine will rev to the point it wants to. By the time you are riding it, you should be able to just start getting it to the powerband. Let it cool down after the initial ride. You'll be able to ride it for a half hour or so and every time you get on the throttle you'll feel it have more power and be able to rev farther. It will be fully broken in around 3-5 gallons. It'll feel broken in before then, but all of a sudden the rings will fully seat and it'll get a lot faster all of a sudden. What kind of engine mods do you have. If you dont already, I definitely recommend a set of dual stage epoxy (boyeson) reeds, or some vforce. It'll completely change the way the shee reacts throttle response wise. The stock setup has way to much lag time.

forget the name of that crappy "go blue" yamaha website that used to sling shit left and right on here, that if you say one bad thing about the site they kick you off?

did you reconnect the choke tube between the two carbs?

I was looking at the quicksand a-arms. Do they come teflon lined, how well you think they'll hold up?

well, they dont make them anymore, but you can still get the silencer I think. They basically took the adjustable and made it a solid pipe where most people liked to ride the adjustment. I would contact LRD and find out what the silencers cost and then subtract that from 350-400 dollars depending on the appearance (rust,dings and dents, etc) These are an awesome trail pipe, that you can adjust where the powerband comes on to suit your style and riding conditions. The pipes almost pull like a 4stroke pipe and have awesome out of powerband torque. I've climbed hills with these pipes where I'll start to fall out of the powerband and instead of downshifting and popping my front end up or letting off, I can just stay in it and the torque will get me up the rest of the hill. The powerband hit is nice and smooth and comes on slowly. By far I believe they are the best trail pipe out there. They produce at least 9hp above stock across the rpm band with a peak of 18 hp above stock at its highest point. Bump for an awesome pipe, they cost over 600 new

alright, here's how I see it. Braxton, you state all anyone sees is the 4 or 5 bads, but not the good. Why is their 4 or 5 bads in the first place? I've made hundreds of deals on ebay and have 1 bad transaction (which was basically the buyers fault) Is everyone out to get you or something? Jankab has a right to be pissed. You sold him a complete bike but failed to tell him that it had been wrecked and that stuff may be bent and some things missing. You knew the starter and clutch were missing but didnt want to mention that, then try getting them from the guy you bought it off of, and didnt want to send them to jankab? Those parts belong to that bike, plain and simple. As far as the whole bottom end goes, you sent him an engine that required more time and effort to get the tranny out of it, then it would of been for him to just get another tranny from somewhere else. It was so fubar that he had to cut through hardened steel. How would you have gotten it off if you dont even have a flywheel puller? You say the rods were still good on the crank. First have fun getting the bearings off of a rusted crank shaft to even be able to get to the rods, and then whose to say the inner race of the rods isnt all pitted from rust? You are costing him a ton of time and hassle, over a ridiculous situation. If you need money for school....get a second job, or sell your banshee, dont sell parts to a quad you just sold as a complete bike. On both ends something could've happened better, but for the most part braxton, you are in the wrong on this one

your stock balljoints cant be replaced, you have to replace the whole a-arm. You can either decide to go aftermarket a-arms with replaceable balljoints or go with stock arms that someone is selling on here.

Gonna be getting a new set of a-arms soon and looking at quicksand. I know heim's are better than balljoints, but I ride in coal soot, and lots of muddy conditions and the boot on the balljoint is a nice thing to have. How do the heim's hold up to the mud?

yeah, billet flashed into my head for a brief second, I started to drool, and then snapped into reality

I'm looking to buy a very bulletproof stock style crank and was wondering where I should go looking. I want the best bearings, connecting rods, etc. I know tz? has a 10 ball bearing that I've heard about around the way. Just looking for everyones opinion on what I should go with. I'll be pushing somewhere around 70hp or so with my ported and meathead polished cylinders, and I really dont want to tear this engine apart for a long time after it gets put together.

does it look like it got bored out when new pistons were put in? What size pistons are they? The guy that you got the banshee from, did he look like he new banshees or was it someone that said their banshee could do 100mph? I've tried a few times to save clutches, but they've basically always slipped somewhat and never had that grab as a good clutch. It could probably use a new clutch anyway. Dont know if you have a round bore mic to see if those pistons are even the right pistons for the bore? Guy you got it from could've just tried to hand hone the cylinders and throw some new pistons in it and get it to run. I would definitely pull the jugs at least and find out. You'd be able to check crank clearances at that time as well. 500 dollars is still a good deal, dont know how the rest of the quad looks, but you could always part it out and probably almost buy a nicer banshee including the money that you'd be sinking into this one.

Happy birthday man, How many times am I gonna have to cut and paste this, this year?

anybody?

here's an idea, how bout you dont ride for a little while until the chance of infection completely goes away. Had a buddy at work shear off his finger with the bottom of a washing machine when he tried to grab it because it started to slide out of the back of the truck. Almost looked the same as yours when I saw it. He had blood flow but the blood flow stopped because he didnt just chill out and rest for a while to let it heal. When you hurt yourself like that, your body sends all energy to that injury to try to heal it quicker. My advice would be to just sit around and relax as much as possible, and drink a shitload of milk. Bet that started throbbing pretty good eh?

Gonna be running my stroker in the woods and shee's gonna need to run a little cooler. Looking for an oversized radiator in really good shape. Can be new, can be used.....just needs to be in good shape, trying to save a little cash if possible, thats all

I'm not saying the text thing is the only form of broadcasting they should do in an emergency, but it should be an integral part. If you are in class and it is off, or somewhere that a cellphone signal cant be reached, there should be other forms of getting the message out. Some sort of landline emergency system to alert the teachers as to what the situation is, and mainly in concrete buildings where the signal cant reach, have some sort of display that can also relay instructions Have a siren that goes off as well, but people need to know what the siren is for or they wont heed its warning. Even if you dont want to give the school your cellphone number, the person walking next to you, or that lives with you or next to you will get that message. Word spreads like wildflower. I'd much rather have some panic for a while with some students, then have to deal with 32 dead because I was afraid of a little panic

First off I want to say that the campus completely fucked up. The high school here for me when we have a snow day, or need to be alerted with something school wise, we get alerted by text message that the kids dont have school. Why is something like this not in place to warn mass amounts of people in a few moments time. They could of announced the shooting as soon as it happened, that if you are in your dorm or residency to stay there until notice, or if you are in class, to stay there and your teacher will give you further instructions. Doors could easily get locked down and such. At least until the situation is completely figured out. Within a half hour after the first shooting, they had the girls boyfriend for questioning, and he was only a suspect at best during that questioning, and the second shootings started during that questioning. I DONT BLAME THE COPS OR ANYONE FOR THE LACK OF FINDING THE KILLER QUICKER, I BLAME THE UNIVERSITY (technological university) FOR NOT WARNING THE PEOPLE BETTER. sure, it would create some panic if it indeed was just a single shooting, but your community that your trying to protect would be safe until the situation is figured out

make sure when you get them you epoxy or silicone them in or you'll lose them right away again. If your seat still moves afterward you can bend the latch hoop on the frame down a little bit and it should stop

every traxxas fuel I've ever gotten has foamed to much on me, was giving me a problem even running 2 filters to try to kill the foam. Finally went to another fuel and my revo has been fine since. Definitely get a fail safe, coolhead, and a pipe for it. It'll wake it up even more. If you tend to be heavy on the throttle and roll the thing on its back a lot from it grabbing, might think of getting wheelie bars, they help a lot

I wouldnt go to much higher on the compression if you still have the stock crank in there and its not welded. I went to 19's and was around 150 or so and it started tearing my top ends apart.

dont know, but a dealership might somewhere? Go into the drag forum or to planetsand and ask, they might know there from building a drag chassis and wanting to use stock pegs still?

quantity not quality.......thats what I always say........way to go postwhore.....I'm proud of you :biggrin: :wink:

64 mm is stock bore Take the cylinders to a machine shop and find out what its gonna need to be bored out to. Order your piston kit (rings, wristpin, bearings, and gaskets) out of the dirtwheels catalog for 160 to your door. Take the cylinders back to the machinist with the pistons so he can bore the cylinders to the exact pistons (pistons come .020 over, .030 over etc. and they can actually be .023 over or .026 over or .019 over. He should be able to bore to the thousandths. Keep the 20 cc domes and adjust your new plate to +4 and you should be good to go. The higher compression with race gas will give you some more torque on the bottom. But I wouldnt go there until you weld the crank. If you dont already, get some dual stage reeds or some vforce's. They'll give you unbelievable throttle response compared to stock and are worth every penny.