jinx44

Man that's bad. If they would have cut perpendicular to the tube, it might not have been so bad. Where the cut it, the swingarm will be lower than the axle!

I won't be able to make it to the shootout. I forgot I will be a groomsman that weekend. Rodney (Larry the Cable Guy's stunt double ) is getting married that day incase you didn't know D34.

How many of you new GTA guys have been driving around for real and have had GTA relapse ? I have. Unfortunately its while I'm on my CBR1000. I forget that flipping a wheelie over backwards will hurt in real life. I've came real close to doing it and its honestly because I forget I'm not playing SA. My disc's has glitches also. The controller glitch is common, as well as it says the memory card isn't in. It also locks up sometimes when you try to save it. Being a farm boy and all, I thought doing a driveby on the tractor was more fun than the lawnmower. Have you tried getting an insane stunt bonus on the mower yet? My best was $4 on the mower for a hell of a fall off of a cliff.

I have some stock yellow wheels with stock tires from a '95 banshee. Tires have 95+% tread and are in good condition. Anyone interested? PM me

172HP at the crank. Yeah, but piston port engines have no low end. The earlier triples (250, 350, 400) had points the later ones (500 and 750 and a couple others) had electronic. My '72 Kawasaki F7 175 (single cylinder dirtbike) has electronic. It works so well, I don't know why kawi didn't put it on everything starting in '72.

Is that the number for Boubin Tire Company? If so that's where I buy my tires. They are the cheapest place I have found. I never can find their number though. I like American Racer tires. I have never really ran the Hoosiers, but the AR's work so good I don't want to change. I run 23 compound on front and 33 or 38 on rear.

You got a title? If so I want it for the bike. Please send pics to [email protected]

Come on, You need one more set of pipes. My FMF SST's. $200.

I bought the tires from my local motorcycle dealer. They are for a scooter. I gave $13 a piece for them new. They are cheap.

Shoot, I guess I am too late to get rid of my carriers. I have two carriers. One from an early banshee, the other from a blaster. The blaster is the same dimensions only has a different brake mount. They would be CHEAP. One stock bent axle. Slightly bent on each side of the carrier. I have straightened some that were bent on the ends, but like I said, its bent in the center. You can't really tell its bent on dirt, but it is VERY noticeable on pavement. I have one hub that, in a fit of rage, I sawzalled one of the 4 spokes off of . I couldn't get the stripped nut off and needed the wheels off right then. My only option was to cut it and run on 3 spokes to get home. I have the other hub too in perfect condition. These hubs have very, very few hours on them.

I have a Durablue rear link and a Durablue front lowering kit with the hardware. I would like to keep them together and I would take $100 shipped for both. PM me if interested. They have VERY little use 2 races.

Don't waste your time and money. Go with a "KG clutch factory" clutch kit. It comes with springs and all for around $85. I run them in all my banshees. I actually pulled the set that I TT raced on all year (4mm stroker motor and TT is hard on a clutch) and they looked good so I put them in my 65HP trail bike and they are still working great.

Sorry, I forgot to say they are stock length.

It took over 2 years for me to get $585.00 back from a guy in TN. I live in MO. That was across state lines and over $500 so it was a felony and it still took that long. Damn nice people down at the Sheriffs department in his county. The officer would call me every couple weeks with updates on when the arrest warrant was issued, when he was seen around town, when he was arrested, etc. By the way, the BBB is bullshit. They can't help a thing. Also, postal M/O are also trackable to whether or not they have been cashed. Just go to you local post office and they can tell you.

Bump, OBO

Another interested.

Yeah, its pretty bad when D34 and an 'ol dumb county boy (me, well he did all the work I just drank a beer ready to laugh if he busted his knuckles) changed the setup from a "top notch" builder and made significantly more power. Jack, that race was all in who's arms gave out last. That and uh....uh....uh....my axle bearings were too tight. Yeah... YEAH that's my story and I'm sticking too it!!! IF everything in the bottom end is still good, my motor will be sporting the last set of cylinders I got from Jim. It might be fun on a little track since I am sure they won't have any low end. And for anyone that is reading this that doesn't know, they have very different porting than the ones that loco has. My set like his pulls like mad from right off idle to the limit.

I know where St. Joseph MO is and where St. Joe State Park is. I just wasn't sure how "local" the new builder was. I would stay away from St. Joe ATV's work. None of it has impressed me.

He is a guy that is close to St. Joe state Park.

Southeast Missouri. How dare you think I am from a messed up state like Oklahoma. Everyone thinks Texas is the state of "steers and queers" but I've heard its a little farther north. Racers in OK aren't fast enough to come over here and race anyway.

Ohton Racing offers the best one I have seen. Only problem is getting him to send you one. I ordered on 3 times from him and he never sent it. Everytime he just wants to send it then you pay for it so its not like he took my money and didn't send the part. I have one from Grand River Racing. I don't like it as much because you must grind the rod down to adjust your clutch. The Ohton one has an adjustment like stock. The only problem is getting GRR to send you the parts you order. Everything I have ordered from him has taken WAY too long to get. It took a month to get my pipes, 3 weeks to get my swingarm, 3 weeks to get my first strut, and I ordered another strut from him over a month ago and still haven't got it. NYUK runs GRR parts, so he might be able to get you one quicker but in my opinion Andy has very poor customer service. You'll need a new pushrod and ball for either kit if yours is messed up.

You have my interest up. Now I have got to tear a motor down tonight. I might be there depending on what I find in the motor. I blew it again at the last national and have been too pissed to work on it.

New set of billet tie rods with stock ends freshly chromed. Chrome jamb nuts and chrome castle nuts included. No boots on the tie rod ends, but yours can be easily transfered. The ends are TIGHT threading in due to the chrome on them and the new aluminum. Thats the only problem with them. My J-arms are narrower than stock and these rods are slightly too long. Instead of modifying them, I already ordered a shorter set. $80 to your door for everything. PM me if interested. Link to the pics: http://www.gsgw.net/Jinx.htm The tie rods are pictures #6 and 7. I can get more pictures if needed.

Here is a link to some pics of the plastic. They are towards the bottom of the page. http://www.gsgw.net/Jinx.htm Let me know if you need more pictures, or if you want pics at different angles or closer up. Also the billet tie rods that are in the other pics are for sale in the for sale section.

I have a set of 3/8 and a set of 3/4 that I would part with. They aren't polished though. I am needing a set of 1/2" preferably polished if anyone has some.