Ruko

I was looking at Fast's site and saw this shift shaft mod they do... I tryed calling him about it but he wasn't in. Anyone have it done or know anything about it?? It's cheap enough but is it worth the time to send my shaft there and wait to get it back? I'm in Canada so shipping can take a while. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.as...CH/TRANSMISSION

I've had 50 watt lights on mine for the last 3 years... I haven't had any problems... they may not be as bright as they should be but they are still brighter than the stock lights.

We put in some dyno time on a buddies quad last year and we tryed both T5's and CPI's. His was drag ported stock cyl's .040 over with stock stroke crank, 17cc domes. We were very suprised to find the CPI's only made about .5 more peak hp. The difference was the T5's peaked about 1000 rpm lower than the CPI's. If I remember right the T5's made 85.2 hp @ 8500 rpm while the CPI's made 85.7 @ 9500 rpm. The T5's really bropped off though after they peaked so if you didn't know what rpms you were running and over reved it you lost something like 10 hp at 9500. He then added a dyna ignition box which raised the max rpm to 10500, and had some pipes custom made and ended up with just over 88 hp. This was just this one example... different setups would change the results I'm sure. I know I had t5's on mine way back when and switched to CPI's. At the time I thought they pulled way better but I never dynoed it. Not sure if this helps you or not... but thats what we found...

I have one of their stators... got it 2 years ago and I haven't had any problems... I don't know whether it's a RS or not, but it's worked just fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elka-System...Q2em118Q2el1247 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elka-System...Q2em118Q2el1247

If anyone is interested this is on e-bay right now... I'd buy it if it wasn't pink... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...rksid=p3907.m32

http://www.magurausa.com/motorcycle/

I've been looking at those too. They used to have the ATV ones listed on thier page but they changed it a while ago. The V1 is the only one that fits atv's as far as I know (bolt on). You also need to use an anti-vibe steering stem, they wont fit a stock stem. You also need to use 1 1/8 fat bars with them. Lastly and this is the bad part when they had the prices listed the Banshhe one was $495.00 plus $79.00 for the bars to go with it. That's why I haven't got one yet . The ones for bikes are $350-400 but the quads need more mounting hardware. If you can find them for $350.00 though let me know cause I'll take one for sure. Scotts/Ohlins are pretty well the same thing as the GPR's. They are a little cheaper though at $450.00. However they use the stock steering stem and bars, so if you don't allready have an anti-vibe they are way cheaper. http://www.scottsperformance.com/index.php http://www.ohlins.com/

If I were to start over again I would go for suspension before tearing in to the engine. A piped Banshee goes pretty good but already but the stock suspension blows.

I have a gas rack from them... it bent after the first ride. I called and told him and he sent some extra supports to put on it and payed to have them welded on. Said he was going to add them to all the racks after that. Product was so-so, but the service was great. He was very quick to get it fixed up for me. Sorry but I couldn't tell ya about the skid plates.

Hey man... glad to see you're still around... For anyone looking into getting a shock redone I can definately vouch for Shane... He did mine a couple years ago and WOW what a diference... I have a couple buddies who got thiers done from him too and they are also very happy with them, so give him a call ^^

I have a 485 Cheetah with valves right out of the box, and a buddy of mine has a 421 Cub with some extra porting. In a drag race we are pretty well even so our peak hp should be close but I have tonns of bottom end while he has none, for just riding around mine is way nicer... If you mostly drag race or just like the light switch feel of the big hit on top (which is also pretty cool) go for Cubs, but if you want smooth power with all the top end too then go with power valves.

I have a Cheetah 485 right out of the box with no extra porting, CPI's yada yada. I raced a stock Honda 450 up Devil's dune at St. Anthony's and smoked it... then raced a Suzuki 450 up Choke Cherry and beat him but not by much.... when we got to the top he said he had some work done but didn't say what... so I said the same back.

The rear shock is definately rebuildable. I had mine done by Shane and it works great but I don't think he is around any more... haven't heard from or about him in a while. I've heard lots of good things about TCS so I'm sure they could hook you up.

...

I have a set of LTR 450 front shocks off a 2006 to get rid of... I bought them for another progect but they wont work. I know some people were useing these with the 450 a-arms, not sure what is needed to make them fit. Here is the e-bay link from when I got them http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...542459&rd=1 $180.00 + shipping

The hose from the water pump does connect to that fitting. It is actually a vent. It goes up in between the carbs and hooks to the bottom of that "T". The hose coming off the back of that "T" goes to the trany vent at the back of the trany, just below the rear motor mount. The hose off the front of the "T" usually goes up over the steering post and is left open at the other end.

I have one of their stators... I haven't had any problems with it.

I haven't seen him around for a while but his number used to be 219-313-1424.

This isn't an Odyssey but it's kinda the same... it had a Kohler 740cc v-twin in it when I got it but it didn't have much power... I am just in the process of putting a Rotax 583 in it now... should haul ass when it's done. I'm just waiting to get the radiator back from the shop... hope to be riding it by next weekend. :biggrin: Before... now...

What ever man... I was just trying to keep it simple... besides what you said is pretty much just a more complicated version of what I said... :biggrin: anyway if you're not sure read the bottle it came out of and do what it says :thumbsup:

It depends what you are using... if it's just the regular green stuff then no it's meant to be mixed... The new premix coolants are redish colored and they are meant to be used straight. They are just premixed to make them idiot proof... that way they can also charge you for half a jug of water. Engine Ice is also a premix, purpley blue colored... not only is it meant to be used straight but you are not suppose to mix it with any old coolant, so you need to flush your system with water first then drain it as much as possible before putting it in. I use it and have a water temp gauge.. it does cool better than regular coolant, but not the 50 degrees it claims. I saw about a 20 degree diference, definately worth it IMO.

Sry I don't have stock carbs anymore... It is easy to see though. Just take off the seat and look down in between the carbs. There should be a hose that crosses over in between them in line with the choke slide on the outside of the left carb. If it's not there you will see the little nubbs where it should be. A friend of mine took his carbs off a couple weeks ago and didn't know about that hose. It just fell down onto the trany. You should be able to put it back on without takeing the carbs back off if you find it. If not just get a little piece of hose to put between them... it is about 5/16 or 1/4" and about 3" long.

I got a brand new set of ITP C-Series front rims and one had a wobble to it... doesn't affect anything, just looks kinda stupid. Pissed me off since I bought them and then went riding out off town the next weekend so I couldn't take it back right away. By then it had some scrapes and scatches so I couldn't return it. Try switching the tires from side to side and see if the wobble goes to the other side. That'll tell you if it's a rim or not.

There is a tube that goes between the 2 carbs for the choke.. make sure it is still there and on properly. It doesn't have any clamps or anything so if you took off the carbs it may have just fallen down onto the trany. I have seen that happen more than once and it will act just as you said.