Ruko

They are the same as all the other yfz 450 shocks except they have both high and low speed compression adjustments. You will still need to modify them to make them fit. The sticky at the top of this forum has all the details. The new 09 yfz450r will probably have different shocks though... longer if nothing else.

No they move the spindles forward 1" but the shock mounts stay in the same place. They still need to line up with the top mounts.

I have been running 50 watt lights for years.. it wont hurt anything. They are not very bright though, if you wana ride at night they are not a good idea. I don't ride much at night and only use these lights cause they are cheap and around here you need lights to be legal... doesn't matter what kind of lights or how bright they are as long as you have something.

Unfortunately they all go through Trinity... You can get one from most any builder but they get them from Trinty first. I got mine from K&T originally, but I have had to get parts from Trinity a few times. I've had good and bad dealings with them. Ordered a set of pistons once... they said they would get them out right away... 2 weeks later I still didn't have them so I called back to see what was up and they still hadn't shipped them yet I have had nice smooth dealings with them also, so who knows... cross your fingers and hope for the best.

If you are useing cases that will take a 10mm then go with a 10mm. The 421 works well because the transfer ports are not reduced. The bigger you go on the bore the smaller the transfer ports get. There is only so much room between the cylinders so to make the bores bigger they need to make up that space somewhere... I think you need to look into what power valves are and how they work though if you are planning to get some... they have nothing to do with the heads... they go in the cylinders to reduce the exhaust port at lower rpms. Power valves do not effect peak horsepower... they give you more power at lower rpms. There wouldn't be much difference between a 421 and 485 if they both had power valves... the 485 would have a little more grunt in the lower rpms due to the extra cc's but the top end hp would be close to the same. If you can drop a 10mm into those cases then forget about the 421 and 485 and go with a 535. Same as the 485 but with a 10mm crank instead of the 4mm.

You will definatly find more power with different pipes... go to some CPI's or Shearer's. Cubs are meant to scream... mid pipes are just holding you back.

No issues... runs great. I've had it for 3 years now and love it. The biggest difference is the power never drops off... it pulls right from idle. In fact it almost makes it too easy to ride, me and a buddy were talking about getting some bare bones stock machines to go hill climbing with just to make it challenging again. He has a 421 cub and we are pretty even on top but I have way more low end power. It doesn't seem to run any hotter than before, but I have an oversize radiator and use Engine Ice. Actually the one problem I have had is the bolt inside the power valve that holds the slide to the plunger has come off on both sides... not a big deal... I just put them back together with locktite and they seem to be ok now. If I did it again though I wouldn't get a 485... I'd get either a 421 or a 535. The 421 seems to have almost as much power as the 485 and doesn't require any case machining. The 535 is a +10mm stroke so it needs the cases to be trenched, but you need to get the cases machined to fit the cyl's for the 485 anyway so you may as well trench it and go 535. The 421 is cheaper and easier... but if you don't mind spending the extra for case machining then go for the 535.

I had my stock rear shock rebuilt with an Elka kit and it came with dual springs... works way better than stock but not sure how much of that difference is because of the springs... only dissadvantage is it sits a little lower.

Any banshee pipes will fit... I got my Cheetah 485 from K&T, they said to go with small bores for anything under 500cc. I'm running CPI's they seem to work pretty good.

How many paddles?

http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm According to this with stock gearing... 14/41 you should be looking at about 72mph. Not sure how accurate this converter is but that seems about right.

I bought a couple quads a few years ago that seemed too good of a deal.. but I got the serial numbers checked with the police before I paid for them, just to be sure they were legit. Just get the police to check the serial number and see if it's been reported stolen... if not it's all yours and don't worry about it. If it has been stolen you're out $900.00. Although I don't know what things are like in Guam... but here the police could look up the number in about 30 seconds tell me if it was clean or not. Also here the number on the engine doesn't mean anything... it's just the number on the frame that matters.

Edmonton...

You can make them fit with just about any arms... stock would be the cheapest, see the sticky at the top of this page,but they are a little stiff with stock arms. Next would be to find some used +2 +1 arms off e-bay or something... they would work way better, but would cost you more. Next would be to get some arms made with the mounts moved out to fit the longer 450 shock properly... most expensive option but definately the best.

Rapid Revolutions... It's kind of a little hole in the wall but he has good prices... I've got lots of stuff from him. He doesn't stock them though so if you're coming through in a couple weeks you better order it now, mine took about 2 weeks to get here. Rapid Revolutions 14935 112 Ave Edmonton, AB 780-455-7553 1-800-455-7553 Are you gona be in town for a while?? A bunch of us are going to the Big Horn Dam by Nordegg for the long weekend... lots of good trails out there...

I also have one and love it :biggrin: I have heard people say they have touble with them but mine has been great... I got mine used about 4 years ago.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elka-System...sspagenameZWD1V I got mine for $475.00 Cdn from a local dealer... no shipping

I just got home from a weekend of good riding. The Elka Steering Stabilizer worked great. The place we were at has lots of big rocks and roots so it was a perfect test. I actually started hitting some rocks on purpose just to see if I could get anything to tranfer through the bars... but I got nothing. It was awesome... I've been looking at getting one for a while but didn't want to spend the money. The last time I was riding we were on similar trails with big roots and I got some nasty bar whips... hurt my wrist pretty good on one. So I finally decided to spend the money... and I gota say, even though they are expencive they are definitly worth it. There was no bar whip at all... I even bent one of my front rims pretty good on something, but I didn't even notice untill my buddy pointed it out. Anyway I thought it worked awesome... I'm sure you wouldn't be disappointed. :thumbsup:

I got an Elka System 3 last week... just installed it tonight. Goin on a big ride this weekend so if you can wait till next week I'll let you know how it works. So far though it looks real nice and it fits good with little effort to install. The system 3 has high and low speed and return to center damping. The syetem 5 has a couple exrta for tight and wide turning. It's only $50.00 more but I didn't bother to get it. They are both lower mount, go at the bottom of the steering stem, so you cannot adjust it on the fly... but I figure once you get it set up there shouldn't really be any need to do that. The GPR is an upper mount so you can adjust it while riding. I'm sure they would also be a good choice. I'm not sure though but I think they will raise your bar height so if you allready have your stem and bars where you like them you may wana go with the Elka. I'll give you a review on it next week :thumbsup:

Also since you had it out, check to make sure your needles are still in properly and the clip or needle didn't break. I buddy of mine had his needle break right at the clip, it would idle with the choke on... but died as soon as you turned the choke off.

Digitron... http://www.digatronusa.com/

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=yfz+450

K&T... http://www.ktperformance.com/

This will sound dumb but I know 2 people it has happened to... make sure the choke crossover tube didn't fall off when you put the carbs on. It happened to 2 buddies on mine... they kicked forever with good spark, compression and fuel, but with out that little tube between the carbs it wouldn't start.

The Trinity Stage 4 head with thier big bore domes will work for you. I used to have one of thier 420 big bores which was also 70mm bore. The Pro Design only go to 68mm for some reason. I know the Trinity head and domes are shaped different so maybe thats why they can go bigger.