Ruko

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59555

This is a 2 window Digitron with 2 exhaust temp. probes. $250.00 plus shipping

Sorry I don't have the box and I don't know how old it is.. I bought it used a couple months ago for my girlfriends machine, trying to soften up the thumb throttle for her. She only used it for a couple rides, now she's giving up on quading and selling the Banshee so I put the stockers back on it. I'll send you some pics tonight.

This is a Motion Pro twist throttle and cable with new grips, used for 1 ride. I also have a second one that is cracked I'll throw in, the sleeve is still good for a spare. $40.00 plus shipping

This is a Trinity 2 into 1 intake with an air box adapter plate and a Kiehin 34mm pj carb. There is also a throttle cable, a few jets and a couple needles. It is used but in good shape. $250.00 plus shipping

You'll notice when you turn it that it's offset a little bit so that it moves the shift shaft up and down as it turns. To adjust it you want the end of the shaft that goes over the shift star to be evenly spaced over the shift star pins. Make sure that it's in gear when you adjust it. Then tighten the lock nut, and bend the locking washer back over the lock nut. I think it would have to be way out of adjustment before it would make any real difference though. I had one that was worn right out with big grooves in the adjuster as well as grooves worn in the springs so there was no adjustment left at all.

I have some Sanddragon a-arms with 450 shocks and I love them. I had them made up with the mounts moved out about 3/4 of an inch though to get the proper intsalled length for the 450 shocks. So they aren't the standard off the shelf Banshee a-arms. They work great though.. I have over 11 inches travel with the longer 450 shocks. I would definately recommend it. Another thing to consider is the 450 shocks have been upgraded every year so the newer they are the better. They also got softer each year too, the 04's are pretty stiff. I've heard the newest ones even have dual compression adjustments.

My 450 Elkas bolted right up without any mods, and they worked awesome... now that I have ext. a-arms they're even better.

If you're burning the tranny oil that means it's getting into you crankcase, so it's your crank seal that's leaking. To change a crank seal you need to split the cases. The crank seal has a little bump around it that fitts into a groove in the case so you can't just pull it out and press a new one in, the cases gota come apart.

Toss my name in that hat too please.

Ya like he said.. it's really pretty simple. I also have Cheetah power valves and I have also had the bolt come out that holds the slide to the plunger. Don't know if it's a common problem but I just put mine back together with some loc-tite on the bolt. I haven't run it much since so I don't know if that will definately solve the problem but I assume it will.

Do you run into stuff?? My a-arms look like new still. Check your old arms... if they're beat up the new ones will probably end up looking the same. One thing though is aftermarket arms are usually tougher than the stock ones so they can take more abuse.

YA they bolt right on... you just have to trim that backing plate thing.. or I heard some people just take it off. I put some on mine and they work better... but not as much better as I was hoping for. If you have some extra ones kicking around then go for it, or if your stock ones are no good, but if you have to buy some don't spend too much. I got mine from the for sale section on http://www.yfzcentral.com/. Way cheaper than the ones I saw on e-bay.

no and no... it was free and I just walked in and asked... I live in Canada though... don't know if it's the same everywhere

You will need a new cable... the one for a twist throttle is longer than the one for a thumb throttle.

I just got the serial number and took it to the nearest Police Station... they punched it up on their computer and told me all about it... If the guy isn't willing to give you the serial number then stay clear.

Ya sorry if I wasn't clear... They don't actually build them from scratch... They build engines using those different cyl's. So since they build engines using all those different cyl's they have a pretty good idea what works for what application, and you can trust they are telling the truth and not just trying to sell you what they have... because they have them all.

Get ahold of a builder you want to go with and talk to them... that's the best way to figure out what will work best for you. I got my Cheetah from K&T, and I am very happy with it. They build all the all different engines Cheetah, T-Rex, Cub, etc... so they can help you figure out what you need for what you what it to do. Check them out "http://www.ktperformance.com/"

The problem is not the frame so there is really no frame mods other than grinding the mount a little. If you want to get the full use of the 450 shocks you need to use aftermarket a-arms. The stock a-arms don't have enough travel in the ball joint. It's the ball joint that dosen't allow the shock to use it's full travel. I have 450 shocks with Sanddragon arms which have had the mounts moved out to get the full length of the 450 shocks and they work great. I have over 11" of travel. The heim joints allow the shocks to fully extend. The stock arms will only move so far.. even if you take the shock out it wont go any further. Now with all that the 450 shocks still work well with the stock arms. They are not being used to their full potential, but they are a huge improvement over the stock shocks. Then you have the option to get different arms, when you can afford it, and see what your shocks can really do. But when you do get new arms get the lower shock mounts moved out about 3/4". That will give you the correct length for the 450 shocks. I got mine from Sanddragon but I don't think they're around anymore. I'm pretty sure Quicksand also moves the mounts out if you tell him you're useing 450 shocks. I would imagine other builders would too if you request it.

The 450 shocks are pretty good. If you can get them cheap that's even better. Don't bother with Raptor shocks. There is a pinned thread at the top with a good "how to" for installing the 450 shocks... pic's and all.

Just took mine apart yesterday... scuffed a piston :: ... the grooves were up

I don't remember if the grooves go up or down but I'm pretty sure they will only clear the piston one way when they are all the way in... they have more of a relief on one side to match up with the bore... I think... it's been a while since I put mine together... :shrug:

k thx I'll try the propane torch but I'm not sure how the exhaust o-rings would affect the jetting??

I am having trouble jetting my girlfriends Banshee and I had a thought maybe it has an air leak. It has a single carb but one side seems to be a little more on the lean side than the other, so I though maybe a base gasket is leaking... Is there some way to check for an air leak without taking it apart?? I tried spraying ether around but it didn't do anything.. I also tried spraying it in the airbox and it still didn't do anything...just to see if the rpm would change. Any other tricks to finding an air leak??

If the carbs are off then your reeds must be off... that would affect the compression.. the crank case wont pressure up to push the air into the cylinders. The pipes off should make no difference though.