Ruko

OK I have been fighting with this for a couple weeks now. I put a single pj34 on my girlfriends Banshee to get a softer throttle, and this is being a real bitch to get set up. It's a Trinity intake that I bought used, and I got the Keihin pj34 off a buddies 250r. It was way off when I started... It had a 38 pilot with a DGK needle and 260 main. I switched to a 55 pilot and now it idles nice... then I went to a CEK needle and stayed with the 260 main. I tried running it and it sputters bad from 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, then smooths out and pulls good in the power band. I tried moving the clip up and down in each postion but it didn't seem to make much difference. It also popped through the pipes once in a while so we thought it was lean. I then bought DEK and EEK needles to riched it up. I tryed both needles in all clip positions but it still has a sputter. The best it seems to run is with the EEK with the clip at the bottom to make it all the way rich. I doesn't seem to be popping now so I think I am going in the right direction... I think... oh and one other thing is, it runs way better when it's cold, the hotter it gets the more it sputters... don't know if that means anything. So I think I have to go to a richer needle yet... I'm just not sure where to make it richer... taper angle or length... I don't mind buying more needles... they're cheap... but they take about a week to get. Right now I am thinking of getting a ECK, which is shorter... or maybe a FEJ, which has more taper angle... Sudco's chart doesn't have an F taper in a K diameter. :shrug: If anyone has any suggestions that would be great...

Price wise it would be cheaper to resleeve your cyl's, but performance wise the cub's would be better.

I'm looking for an EEK needle for a Keihin carb... anyone know where to get keihin parts fast??

I am looking for an eek needle for a Keihin carb if anyone has one kicking around.

you can either go buy the tool from your dealer, or just make one... it's not too hard.. we found a bolt that almost fit, then ground it down until it did fit, then welded a nut to it so we could turn it... works great as was basiclly free.

I have a Magura on mine... they are very nice... soft and smooth.. but they are expensive. I put a Fly easy pull lever on my girlfriends Banshee for way less money, it seems to be almost as good, very soft pull as well. If I did it again I would just go with the easy pull.

The Cheetahs have power valves, the Cubs don't. Also the Cheetahs use a bigger intake and reed cage, while the Cubs are made to use all the stock parts.

Ya I switched the plug end over.. The newer ones have one extra wire... I think it went to the park brake switch for the TORS... not sure though... I just left it unpluged and taped it off... It works fine without it... and easy to do... Just use a pick to unhook all the wires from the plugs and then they just push back into the other style plug... make sure you put them back in the right spot... maybe just do one wire at a time to be sure... I had an extra cdi so I could see where they were supose to go...

No I don't mean get a new frame.. you can convert the old j-arm frames to use a-arms... I'm not sure how hard it is, I've never done it but I have seen lots of topics about it. I think someone on here was making kits to do it.. just do a search.. there should be lots of info on it.

Sanddragon used to make some but I think they are out of buisness now... they used the same manufacturer as Janssen though so maybe check with them... I'm sure there are others as well out there... you could also convert it to a-arms

do a search for Shane...he does great work

ok I found a convesion chart.. so that is supose to convert to a DGK needle... does anyone who runs a PJ carb know what you have for a needle??? This one seems to be lean in the pilot circuit. I think that means I should get one with a smaller diameter?? Is that right???

I have a 34mm pj carb that came off a 250r I am trying to put on my girlfriends Banshee. I switched it over to a single carb and a friend had this one sitting in his garage. The needle says R1469N, does that sound right?? I thought there should be 3 letters at the end... I have a chart for Keihin needles but this doesn't seem right. Does anyone know how to read those numbers??

Are you getting stock length or extended arms?? If you get stock length arms they will go right on... if you get extended arms you will need to get the shocks revalved. With the extended arms you will have more leverage so the shocks would be real soft as is.

Nope it wouldn't clear... the upper arm is very close even on extended arms... I have Sanddragon arms and they just barely clear with the mounts moved out... It wouldn't help you anyway because the stock arms don't have enough travel. Even using the stock mount the ball joint is what limits the travel so they are already moving as far as they can. If you moved the mount out the a-arms still wouldn't travel any farther. Aftermarket ball joints or hiem joints pivot farther to allow more travel.

It's really up to you and how you ride... 04's are the stiffest, 05's and 06's are softer, you are on the heavy side and with +2 arms you have more leverage on them. If you do lots of jumping you may want to go with 04's. If you don't jump much but want a nicer ride go with 05's or 06's. Also if price is an issue the 04's are older so they are usually cheaper.

Get ahold of Shane.. he does some upgrades to them.. dual rate springs etc.. his number is in Squish's sig a few posts up

Yes they are rebuildable.

They have upgraded the 450 shocks every year so far so try and get the newest ones you can find, but they all work well. The 04's are stiffer though so if you're heavier you may want to go with them. I put some 06's on my girlfriends Banshee and they work great. Yes they should work just fine with those a-arms... if the mounts are for stock length Banshee shocks you will have to compress the 450 shocks to get them in, and you will have to do a bit of grinding to get them to clear the upper mounts as well. Nothing major though.. I got mine on in about 15 min. If you are getting them made have the bottom mounts moved out about 3/4". Then the 450 shocks should go right in.

YA the 450 shocks work great with +2 a-arms. I got the mounts on mine moved out to use the full length of the 450 shock but even with the normal mount placement the 450 shocks still work very good.

There are some 2 stroke engines that don't use reed valves... the Rotax 670 for example has a rotary valve mechanisim instead. Also Detroit Diesel engines are 2 strokes with no reed valves, but they use exhaust valves like a 4 stroke. Those are just 2 off the top of my head... so there are some out there Polaris may have another...

The 485 is with a +4 crank and a 73mm bore... I'm not sure if you can just bore it out to 73 and have it re-nikasiled. That would be nice if you could though... I'm sure some of the builders like K&T or FAST would know... or you could sit on hold with Trinity for a coulpe hours

sry my mailbox was full.. all cleaned out now... anyway.. I'll look into a new boot and let you know thx

I am in the market for a 2 into 1 carb setup for my girlfriends Banshee. It is all stock right now except some FMF pipes so I would like to get either a 33mm or 34mm carb... but I could always find another carb if I have to... I see most are 35 and up. If anyone has one they would like to get rid of just let me know.. Thanks

All you should need is a thumb throttleand a new cable.. it should be easy.. just switch the cable then change out the twist for the thumb... oh ya you will need new grips as well... the one for the twist is bigger and wont fit straight onto the bar.