Ruko

ok cool... I sent an e-mail to the VP tech dept. just to see what they have to say about it but maybe I'll try running some straight c111 just to see if I can notice any difference. MY brother also works for ESSO so I'll give him a call too. You got me curious now... I'm gona look into some av gas too.

I agree... when I first changed over to the cheetah I didn't have a compression gauge to check it with so I just used the same fuel I ran before in my 420. I was cautious and checked for detonation, but never had any problems. When I finally did check it with a gauge I was very suprised. I only had 160 with my old 420 setup. I actually got both those readings off my buddies gauge. I have purchased my own now but I haven't used it.

Like I said I have been running it like that for years... It's a 485 Cheetah from K&T, with CPI's. 35.5mm carbs & +4 timing. I had it apart last winter to replace a broken cylinder stud and the pistons looked like brand new. I get 195 psi on my comp. gauge, but they are never exactly acurate. The 2 guys I ride with all the time use the same fuel and mixture. One of them has a 421 Cub set up basically the same as me, and the other has a cut and ported 250r which got 190 on the gauge. I have heard before not to mix fuels but I never heard a good reason why, and since it has been working just fine for so long I don't see a reason to change. So I was just wondering if someone actually has a reason to not mix fuel or if they say don't just because they heard not to some where.

I have one from Extreme Fabrications... they're on E-Bay. When I first got it it bent on my first ride so I called the guy and he sent me some extra supports and paid to have them welded on. Since then it's been good. He said he was going to put them on all the racks after that. It looks and fit good so as long as he followed through and stared putting the extra supports on them they should be good. Here's the link... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-Bans...sspagenameZWDVW The one in the picture is not for a Banshee, he uses the same picture for all of them

I used to use c-12 but I switched to c111. You can only get c111 in the winter though... at least around here. It's supose to be for 2 stroke sleds. We were told from the dealer it's almost the same as c-12 but cheaper. Why not run 50/50?? I have 195psi comp on a gauge, so it's probably a little higher than that yet, at 2000-3000 feet and have been mixing 50/50 for years with no problems. As have all my riding buddies. We all use the same fuel with Amsoil and none of us have ever burned a piston.

http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm

Hey man I am from Port Alberni... I'm in Edmonton now though... My brother and cousin are in Port still.

Split Second Performance 780-524-4330 or 780-524-5562 Ralph Mott's Machine 780-418-5595 Tom... I think Tom is on hollidays till next week

I know it's a long way from you but there is a couple guys around here... Ralph at Splitsecond Performance in Valleyview, Alberta, also Tom at Mott's Machine in St. Albert, Alberta. They both do great work, but if given the choice I'd go with Splitsecond. At all the drag races around here most of the top guys have had their work done at one of these two places. Ralph's stuff takes the trophy more often though. On the down side he is also VERY busy and it usually takes a while to get anything back from him. Tom is allmost as good, plus I'm pretty sure he is cheaper and has a better turn around time. I don't think either of them have websites but if you're at all interested I can get you thier phone numbers.

When you adjust the shift sfaft make sure the transmission in in gear. Check the adjusting stud, the spring that rides on the stud and the area where the spring rides on the shift shaft for wear. I had one a while ago that the stud, spring and shaft all had some wear and with all of them combined you could turn the adjusting stud all the way around but it didn't make any difference to the adjustment. Also just to clairify... when you adjust the shift shaft you want to get the forks on the shaft to be centered on the pins on the shift star, then lock the nut and fold over the lock tab washer. You could also check to make sure the arm that rides on the shift star is moving freely. It will have spring pressure against it but if you got the spring on crooked it could lock that arm in place and not allow the shift star to move properly.

Sounds to me like you need a new basket. It gets grooves worn in it then the plates hang up on the grooves so the clutch does not engage and disengage properly. If you do need a new one get yourself a billet... there are lots of different ones, but they are all about the same and WAY better than stock. I've had a Vortex billet basket for the last couple years, I just had it all apart and this thing looked like the day I installed it. I would also make sure to check the ball and shaft to make sure they haven't welded together. Slipping is when you let out lever but it does not lock up... dragging is when you pull in the clutch but it still wants to go... both can be caused by grooves in the basket.

I'd look at the used one. It's only a year old so it should be in good shape still. Then take the money you will save and do some upgrades... pipes first then suspension.... All Banshee's are pretty much the same except the really old ones with j-arms front ends, 87-91 I believe. There is no difference between the 07 and 08 except the colors.

Ya all the dealers have them here.

Like he says... I have one and I love it. I got my used off e-bay and the slave cylinder leaked a little, still usable just I had to keep toping up the fluid. I ran it like that for a year then got a new cylinder, since then I haven't had any problems with it. I have the original plastic line and it seems pretty tough so I don't think I would bother getting the braided line unless I actually had a problem. I'd be more conserned about breaking the lever or the master cylinder in a crash. For this reason I carry my old standard lever and cable in my tool box whenever I go out, but I've never needed it so far (knock on wood) :biggrin:

I found the box and you need to get a bleeding kit. It has a syringe and some fittings. I didn't read through all the instructions but you will need the kit in order to bleed it properly. Here is the website for USA http://www.controls.magura.com/english/frameset/frameset.htm. It has a dealer finder so you can get ahold of the one nearest to you. My bleeder kit still has the price on the box of $25.00 Cdn, so they are pretty cheap.

Ya you can bleed them... I don't remember how though. I still have the instructions around for it somewhere, if I can dig them out I'll let you know.

Not sure if there is anything special about Magura Blood but I just use regular mineral oil in mine. Have been for the last 3 years with no problems.

485 Cheetah with 195psi comp. 4 years on my crank with no problems. I've heard rumor that they come apart but I don't know anyone it's ever happened to. Although... a little extra insurance never hurt.

Mine are at least 4 if not 5 years old.. I got them when they first came out and I haven't had any problems with them. I just went to buy a new set last week, mine are 10" and I wana run some 9" tires, but and the dealer said they have been discontinued. Maybe this is why they stopped making them and I have just been lucky so far.

yes you can... I have Elka 450 shocks on my banshee with +2 arms, the stock 450 shocks also work great... just get the 450 shocks for standard length 450 a-arms. The stock 450 a-arms are pretty much the same length as +2 Banshee arms. Also with the Elka's you don't need to do any grinding to make them fit, mine just went right in, the mount area on the Elka's are much smaller than the stock 450 shocks. On last thing... if you don't have the a-arms yet try to get them with the shock mounts moved out 3/4". This will give you the proper installed length when you use 450 shocks, I got mine from Sanddragon, I know Quicksand used to move the mounts out as well if you request it.

no you just have to take off the clutch side cover and slide the shaft out.

ahh... pancake bearing... I get it now... just got everything ordered up, including a pancake bearing :thumbsup:

Clutch pusher??

thx guys... I'll look into the new shaft then, that should work out better for me.

Brule is just west of Hinton... not sure if there is any short cuts from Calgary but it's about 2.5-3 hours west of Edmonton, just outside Jasper park. Also it's not really "sand dunes", it's more like sand hills and beaches all along the river. It's a great place to ride, we usually go out there a couple times a year. There's lots of area to ride and lots of room to camp. I've heard rumors that the tree hugers are trying to close it off but I've heard that for pretty much everywhere. If you or anyone else wants to head out there some time just shoot me a pm... I'm always ready to go riding.