Ruko

Will do

I usually use an impact as well but you can also put a penny in the gears to keep it from turning. I had to do that once it worked ok.

Hey man I'm in Edmonton too... maybe we could hook up sometime... we're planning a trip to Brule in about a month.

I have a 485 Cheetah with power valves and it has amazing midrange. It is a +4 crank with a 73mm bore and no extra porting done to it. I also run CPI's which are a top end pipe. If you were to go to a +10 crank it should have all the mid you would ever need. The power valve Cheetah's are definately still available, it's just that the Cubs are cheaper so most people are going that route now. I don't know if they would bolt up to an RZ bottom end or not but I remember a post a while ago about someone doing just that. I would think if you can put a RZ top end on a Banshee bottom you should be able to go the other way as well. Maybe someone who has more RZ knowledge can chip in here.

The power valves use exhaust pressure to open them. The exhaust gas pushes agaisnt a plunger inside, so the higher the rpm the more pressure there is so they will open more. There are what look like two jets on the outside of the pv to let the air inside out when the plunger moves. The hoses normally go onto them and then just run them down under the engine somewhere. The other end is left open. If you do a lot of low rpm riding you will get some black goo coming out of those jets, the hoses are there to run it down under the engine so it dripps on the ground and doesn't get all over the front of the engine. I have never heard of running the hoses back into the intake... that might be a good idea but I'm not sure. The goo that comes out is unburned oil and fuel so if you run it back into the intake it should just reburn it. That would be much cleaner and enviromentally friendly I guess. I'm not sure if that would do anything to the way the power valve works though... but you would be adding a vaccum to the hose so it would probably have some affect, :ermm: If anything I would guess it would make the valves open sooner so drag guys might like that. I would be interested to know if anyone else has ever done this.

I used to use that oil... it works good, at least I had no problems. It was suppose to be 100:1, but I used to mix it about 75:1. I just couldn't bring myself to mix it at 100:1. I have friends who used it at 100:1 though and as far as I know they didn't have any probelms with it. I've switched to Amsoil now but only because a friend of mine is a dealer for it.

They were set up for a 450 but the a-arm length and shock angle are still pretty close to the same so I haven't bothered to get them revalved. Besides they work awesome as is.. if I ever need to get them rebuilt for any reason I would measure eveything up and have them set up exactly though.

They are the same length as stock 450 shocks, which people use all the time on stock Banshee a-arms. Just like stock 450 shocks they are a bit too long so they do need to be compressed. I had my Sanddragon a-arms built to fit them with the mounts moved out so they are now the correct length and they work awesome. With people doing the 450 a-arms swap they should be great for that too. Remember Elka builds them to replace the stock shocks so anywhere you can use the stock ones you could use Elka's.

I have Elka 450 shocks on mine and there was no grinding required. I put them on originally with the stock a-arms and then when I could afford it I bought some +2 +1 Sanddragon arms. They fit right on both types of a-arms no problem.

I have a Cheetah 485 built by K&T and they recomended sticking with the small bore CPI's.

I found a website somewhere that had lots of listings for all different machines with all different pipes. I think CPI's on a Banshee came in at about 100-101. So ya if you need to be at 93 you would have to do something to make them quieter. I also run CPI's so I am looking into getting some new silencers made from a local custom pipe shop. They would have spark arrestors in them and be quiet, but I'm sure that would hurt the power as well. It's easy to switch the silencers back and forth though, at least on CPI's, so having 2 sets wouldn't be the end of the world.

The line where the upper and lower cases meet is what you use to set the timing plate. You turn it clockwise to advance. Every aftermarket timing plate I have seen has the degrees marked off on it so it's easy to set at +4 or what ever you want. If you're trying to modify a stock plate you will probalbly only be able to get about 2 degrees out of it.

I put some on mine... they bolt right up except you need to either get rid of, or trim the backing plate. The stock brake lines will fit but you need to reroute them. The angle they bolt onto the 450 calipers is different. Most other people said they make a big difference but I didn't really notice any. I got mine used off YZFCentral and put new pads on them. The pads cost me more than the calipers... but like I said I didn't really notice any difference. I also heard alot of other people also switch to a Honda 450 master cylinder. That may help, maybe the Banshee master cylinder just wont make enough pressure to push the duel piston calipers. :shrug:

look like PJ 34mm

The wires for the ket switch need to be connected... not sure what the colors are though. It could be the CDI but there is no way to test them other than changing them out. If you know someone who has another Banshee you could borrow one from to try it before you go out and buy one, that's about the only way to test them. Oh and there are different plugs on them depending on what year your Banshee is. I belive it's 97 and after have a different plug than before 97. I could be wrong on the year though.

Definately could be the cdi... unfortunately there is no way to test them other than changing it out.

I use DVD Shrink 3.2 ... and it works with Nero.

I picked up a used anti-vibe steering stem but I'm not sure how tight it's suppose to be where the clamp attaches to the stem. Do you tighten it right up or leave it a little loose so it has some movement in it? It seems to me it should be right tight but then how does it take out the vibration if there is no movement in it?

Did you put that on a Banshee?? They don't have one listed on their website for Banshee's, only for 450s. Or did you mod one to fit??

you betcha... we learned in previous trips to bring lots of beer :thumbsup:

http://shop.sanddragonmotorsports.com/splashPage.hg

Thanks guys... sounds like Winchester would be the place to go... I"ll start looking into it. It's about a 20 hour drive to get there though :yucky:

hey all... I am planning to go somewhere this Aug. to hit some good dunes. We were originally going to go to St. Anthony's but we've been there a few times allready so we're thinking of hitting Oregon instead. Where would be the best place to go, and what kind of restrictions are there?? I read somewhere that you need to be below 93 decibles in Oregon, is that everywhere or just certain places?? Also do you need spark arrestors??

I have Sanddragon and they are great so far... they give a deal to BHQers, and they are same as Janssen, made by the same guys... Quicksand is also very popular, I was gona go with them when I bought mine but he was real busy at the time and it would have taken longer.

We use helicoils all the time.. they work great if installed correctly.. and they are easy to install. I once worked on an aluminum block out of a top fuel dragster and it had all the bolt holes helicoiled. Aluminum just isn't as strong for holding threads.