Ruko

How do you figure it will make it harder at 1/2 throttle or more??? Less spring should be less tension...

I just got my girlfriend's Banshee all together finally... but the problem is she hurt her thumb last year and the thumb throttle is too stiff for her. I tryed a twist but that is just plain dangerous... so I'm trying to make the thumb throttle as light as possible. I'm planning to cut the springs and go to a Honda thumb throttle but would switching to a single carb make much difference??

There was a thread on here a while ago about using a Honda 400ex thumb throttle. He used a fish scale to measure the pull and it was way less with the Honda throttle. Different leverage or something. Anyway I got one off e-bay for cheap and tried it and it does make a big difference. My thumb doesn't get sore at all anymore.

I'm lookin for a left side/flywheel cover. Let me know if you have one to get rid of. Thx

I'm looking for a left/flywheel side cover. Let me know if you have one. Thx

that should help... thanks

I just picked up a Tors removal kit for my girlfriends banshee. I has the idle screws but there is no tap and no instructions on where they go. Can anyone tell me what size tap I need to get and where to drill and tap the holes for the screws. Thx

I tryed to PM you but your mail box is full... I live in Canada so shipping would be a little extra. Can you get me a price to ship to 11051 152 Street Edmonton, Alberta Canada T5P 1Z9 It shouldn't be that much more so I'm pretty sure I'll take it off your hands Thx

looking for a side cover for the left side... flywheel side..

It says your PM box is full, but if you still need a crank I have one out of a running 2001... $100.00

I think you guys might be a little hard on the guy... all he asked was how fast is a stock Banshee. He didn't say anything about wanting to beat one with a Balster. Maybe he wants to upgrade to a Banshee and would like to know how much faster he can expect it to be Anyway I found one of those speed converters, not sure how accurate they are, but with stock gearing and tires at 9000 rpm it said 71 mph... seems about right to me... but then again how would I know

As far as I know they are all about the same. I got mine from K&T Performance and it seems to work good... I've had no problems with it, and it was chaper then a Diret Drive.

They should have a plastic or bronze bushing in the ends... and yes you can get needle bearings to replace the bushings. Pivit Works makes some but they are very expensive. Easier and way cheaper to just replace the bushings.

I've heard that too.. easier to replace the bars than a steering stem... plus you could probably buy 5 sets of cheap bars for one set of Renthals or Tags.

What it does is... there is a plate that slides up and down in the exhaust port so at lower rpm's it closes off the port a little to make the engine think it has low end porting and give more low end power. As the rpm's increase the plate opens to allow the top end to sing. So you can get more aggressive porting and still have some low end power. That's why a lot of guys say the Cubs are more for drag racing. They have the aggressive porting of the Cheetahs but no power valves so they are dead in lower rpm's. The power valve Cheetahs have all the top end but also have good low end power as well. They work very well and give you the best of both worlds. As far as I know the only reason to block off the the power valve is if you are drag racing only and don't want to pay for the low end power if you're not going to use it. I would think that is not as common now that the Cubs are out on the market as you can just get a set of them instead. The only advantage to useing the PV cyl's and blocking off the PV instead of just using Cubs, is the PV cyl's have bigger intakes than the Cubs. Now how it works is actually kinda simple... the exhaust pressure increases as the rpm's increase so the exhaust pressure itself is what opens the valve until it's wide open at wide open throttle.

Look in the suspension forum... there is a long thread on how to install them... short answer is yes they will work.. most people think they are great... there is some minor grinding to get them to fit...

obo...

still got it... someone must need a crank....

I also have the +5 from JTM.. I've had it for about 3 years... It has worked great for me... I've never had any problem with it... also I have 3 friends who have the same thing and none of them have had any problems... what I like is you can put it in or take it out in about 20 min's.. so if I'm riding tight trails I just take it out... if I'm riding dunes or hill climbing I put it in... only bad thing is the skid plate wont fit.. and you need 2 chains.. one long and one short

If it has 19cc domes you will need to run at least 50/50 race fuel

bbbbump

Elka has some kind of rear linkage that's supose to give it extra travel.. but at what point do you call it "long travel"

Ya sometimes... We go to Nordeg out by Rocky Mountian House once in a while... we mostly go west though to Bruell out by Hinton... I had a friend down in Calgary said there was lots of good riding down there but lots of fish cops checkin for noise levels and spark arresters... we saw some cops in Nordeg one time but they didn't bother us... but we're always lookin for new places to ride so I wouldn't mind comin down there if you know where to go...

Ya she was from Edmonton... I girlfriend knows her... I've never met her though

When I installed mine they were pretty close too but I extended the caster adjustment hiems at the frame end of the arms out a little farther to get more clearance. Then you have to adjust the lower arm main heim out to get your camber set. That's one reason they are all adjustable... you still want to get all the angles right, but you can move the upper arm out from the frame a little for extra clearance.