bigboybanshee

Very true!! At the time I talked to them they quoted me one week turnaround, sent them on Monday and got them back that Friday. Becky did mention they were in their "off" season. To have the shocks shortened you just send them off, they can sometimes take out a spacer in the shock, or just cut the shaft and rebuild it. I think it's 50 bucks a shock for a complete rebuild (new seals, re-fill, etc), unless you need a new shaft (longer one) then its a little more $$$.

Oh I agree it can be cheaper elsewhere, I just really like the quick turn around time they provided. They rebuilt 4 shocks for me in a day. I imagine they could set new ones up in the same time. I'm just partial though, when I get treated exceptionally well at one place, I'll go back even if it costs a little more. :shrug: I only run fronts on mine, and they are 12.25". I plan to take a half inch out of them for next year and stiffen them up a nut hair, it sits good now but I think it would do better a little lower all around. I think the ride height you're talking about (11.75") would work well :beer:

If you can't find a used set, I'd go straight to the source and get them from Marvin Shaw. Tim and Becky have awesome customer service, quick turn-around time, and are just great people to deal with.

Understood. Sometimes its hard to tell someones demeanor by reading text, maybe I read it the wrong way...it's all good, no harm done. :beer:

That's correct. Full throttle is the main jet. Is it sputtering, hesitating, etc? what exactly does it do? How do your plugs look? Also, you said your pistons were +7, did you mean to say your timing was +7? If so, you may be running too much, might need to back it down to +4 or +5

I think that's really good advice, extending the front end forward definitely helps keep the front end down, you could maybe go +2 out the back and +1 or 2 forward in the front, and still be able to have the best of both worlds. :thumbsup: Also, the CPI's and bigger carbs will make a noticeable difference in power, and fuel economy, LOL. I think it's a very worthwhile investment on a ported engine.

Actually, it's not the head you have ported, its the cylinders. :thumbsup: I'd find yourself someone else to do your work, you don't lose any "reliability", it'll run for a long time IF you take good care of it. There was a thread in the product reviews section (I think) debating the pro's and con's of using different brands of pistons, I have always used wiseco pistons and had great luck with them. Most everyone I ride with/race with uses wiseco too. The best thing to do if you're looking for someone to do your portwork is make a list of builders. Call them all and see which one you feel the most comfortable with. There are several great builders that can do the job, some are swamped with work, some are not. Call them up, ask them prices, turn around time, and what they recommend for your setup, and whichever one you like the most, go with them :beer:

The stupid comment was "why would anyone run a 44"...Uhhh...the same reason you would run any size sprocket, cause its what worked best at the time/place he ran it before. Then you followed up with the comment about explaining how it could be a "realistic" asphalt setup...again, cause maybe that's what got the guy down the track the quickest. You came off cocky and "knowing it all" by acting like running a 44 tooth sprocket is the most ridiculous thing in the world...when its actually quite common in drag setups. I, like John did, keep several sprockets on hand, one of them being a 44, and I had to use it once to compensate for tire size. When you're at the track and don't have access to an impact, you use what you have to get your setup right. Is this better and more explanative for you? The point was there isn't a "right" or "wrong" gearing for an asphalt setup. You use what works best. My comment was kept simple because there is nothing complicated about what we're talking about. Some things don't have to be complex to be accurate. :shrug:

I know (not worth it)...I just think its retarded that people are going to jump in and make stupid comments like that one, think they know everything. I'm not mad, just making a valid point. Carry on! :smile: :thumbsup:

I ran 14/41 on my 350 last year on the 1/8 mile strip, topped out in 6th, run 7.42 @86mph Let me guess, I'm full of shit, huh? You must be the god of gearing to know what can and can't work on every setup... There is no specific gearing for any setup, rider weight, CC's, gas, alcohol, engine mods, weight of bike, all have a role in what gearing needs to be run. Come on man, I wasn't freakin born yesterday

Or....maybe not everyone is on myspace...

Is this for stock carbs? If so, I think I have a set sitting in my garage, K&N. If you're interested, I'll cut you a great deal. PM me if you want them :beer:

Because maybe that's what worked best? You guys have totally thrown this post into left field, all the guy asked for is what gearing is best for his setup. Who cares about what was on his bike before, it doesn't matter anymore....geeeeez I say w/ stock tires and your mods, go with 14/40 or 14/41. I've always liked running taller gears for trails though, makes it easier to ride, IMO :beer:

I hope all goes well with the evacuation and REALLY hope your house is still there once the fire is out. I know you have to be extremely frustrated

I'm also throwing in a vote for having the road force balancing done. I bought a brand new set of 20's that were balanced on install and they shook at 50-60mph, but no where else...took them to my buddy who works at a dealership, did the road force balance and cleared the problem immediately. It was cool to see the print out afterwards, lots of info. :thumbsup:

Damn, this sucks to see but I understand where you're coming from...I'd love to snag the rear shock from you, I'll check back after Halloween. :beer:

I think you should...it's a nice change of pace. There is one I go to in Alabama (Outlaw sand drags), nice track, well groomed and lots of shutdown. They are actually having a big heads up shootout tonight and tomorrow. http://web.mac.com/outlawsanddrags/iWeb/ww...s.com/HOME.html

BG products are really good, that's all my friend recommends, and he works at the GM dealer...good stuff, I've used their transmission conditioner and injector cleaner with great results. :thumbsup:

I run FMF silencers on mine, that's how they came when I bought them used. You have to make a small adapter to mate the expansion pipe with the silencer but the fitment is pretty good.

That's what I'm thinking too... I do know that there is a lot of work to be done on the twisters to make them comparable, but they can and do run hard when setup properly. It could go either way

I personally don't do it, I just trim the base gasket to match the porting on the top case half...but never messed with the gasket to accomodate the cooling pockets, only the transfers. :geek:

It's not hard at all to run, you mainly just get your bike tuned in perfect and turn the bottle loose. The key is getting the foggers placed in the right spot, and making sure you hook up a safety switch for the fuel and a purge kit for the nitrous. Keep the bottle pressure between 900-1150psi (I use a torch). You'll also need to either run a secondary fuel tank or plumb a line of your main tank for the fuel pump, as well as switch to some TDR reeds (they don't freeze when you spray it). Jet the nitrous according to the little chart they give you with the kit and you're good to go! If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help out. Nitrous is a lot of fun, but you have to make sure all is working properly or else you'll be going home with a nice hole in your piston :biggrin: I am spraying it in all of these passes...(right click and save target as..) http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...mp;Number=61876 Nitrous solenoids/battery/bottle Purge button

I'd love to build something bigger, but there are 2 main factors that hold me back. First one is I am a firm believer that you should build bikes in increments, and get used to the power slowly before jumping into something twice as strong and potentially getting hurt. Accidents happen on any bike, but there is a learning curve as the engines get bigger...bike handles differently, more to tune, more that breaks, lol. Second factor is I have to be able to afford the bigger engine, and be able to afford to keep fixing it when it breaks. :biggrin: I'm always buying something for this thing ::

Yep!! It is a disease, I thought I wouldn't go any bigger than my 4mil but boy was I wrong...I'm exploring avenues that I swore I wouldn't go down, LOL

I got to get me one of those with this upcoming build, those are really nice!!!