bigboybanshee

Not sure where to order them, but the friends of mine that run them just fab up their own out of a piece of flat metal.

LOL! I was thinking maybe someone jumped in there and pulled a prank on him while he wasn't looking

Thats fucked up... Everyone take note not to deal with this impatient ass IROOST1

I still can't believe it, it just doesn't make sense... You had NOTHING that came out of your clutch that looked like the fibers on the left of the pic?

LOL, please do, my wallet is trying to burn a hole in my pocket this week, I already bought a 10mil crank and cylinders on Monday :woot:

Its no problem. I'm sure he was probably already out the door or on the road when you sent payment, and he has no way to find out until he gets back. I'm sure he'll get things squared away with you. Derek is the last person to try and screw anyone over

I talked to Derek (Big Blue) and he's on his way back in to town now, should be there in a few hours. He said he'll do whatever you want, refund your money or ship your seat out tomorrow. He asked that you PM him today and let him know what you want to do.

You need to relax and not talk about someone you don't know... I'll check on the seat for you, I can call/text him in a minute and find out what the deal is...I guarantee he's on the road now, and yes he's a full time driver. It's only been 10 days, that is WAY too early to file a claim, and if you did, I suggest you remove it. Damn, folks are too ancy around here...learn some patience!!! This is the very reason I hardly ever sell shit on here, people expect their parts to be at their house 2 days after payment :shoothead:

LOL, thanks! :beer:

Yeah, I think a good port on the stock cylinders would be wise, you can still crank out some really good power on a set of stock cylinders. Put the extra money towards carbs, reeds, and a cool head, adjustable timing plate, etc. and you'll be real surprised with the difference :thumbsup: Cubs are gas guzzlers too, you won't make it very far before having to fill up again...just more food for thought :beer: 30's to 33's are good choices on carbs dune port and dune/play port are pretty much the same thing if I'm not mistaken

I "think" the biggest bore is a 68mm bore for the cubs, then the super cubs jump to 72mm bore. I am not sure you can get the stock stroke cubs in 68mm bore though, I think they only come in 65mm, "I think". I wouldn't recommend running a completely stock crank unless its been welded. You "could" run a stock head but I think you should at least have it shaved to bump up compression Cubs are drag racing cylinders. They aren't trail cylinders. You can ride them on the dunes but they are strictly a high RPM cylinder. The powerband hits really hard. I personally would run nothing smaller than 33's for a stock stroke cub. And you'll want to buy the larger fuel bowls for the carbs Before you get set on buying some cubs, what kind of riding do you do most?

No thanks, not interested. Have fun

That's disgusting! LOL, but the funniest part about the post was talking about how nasty cigarettes are, and then talks about a nice dip of skoal They both are equally gross, the dip is no better than smoking. I am a smoker but still think it stinks, LOL....that's the sad part about being physically addicted to something. :shoothead:

I'm sorry to hear you're having these problems, but I have to agree with a few of the others, the paddles being off a little bit isn't going to affect the performance. One of my paddles on my 14 paddle extremes is WAY out of line as far as distance between blades, and I run my bike over and over again at 70+mph every weekend, and they perform as expected, no problems at all. This is also with a rigid rear suspension, so if the back end was "out of balance" I would definitely feel it. Just my .02 :shrug: Hope everything works out for you, but I feel like you're going to be going through this again with the next set you receive! :beer:

Both dominator and lonestar axles are top notch and I don't think I've ever heard a negative review of either of them. I'd fork out the extra coin for one of those simply cause they're proven...but that's just me.

It's not a bad idea to put some on the gasket where the transfers are...I've had mine blow the gasket out right there and it'll definitely put a dampening on your night. Just stick a dab on your fingers and run the gasket between your fingers, then install. It'll help keep it sealed...I also put a little bit on the part between the cylinders too, just cause it's so thin.

The difference is dirt and sand...sand puts more load on the bike and most people will either get a less aggressive tire (like sredish mentioned) or drop a tooth in the front (like I mentioned) to keep you in the powerband. You shouldn't have to keep clutching it to get going. Bike should pull on its own.

You know I have faith...he's just not running straight 110, and he's not running a cub either. I'm a timing havin' fool on my bike, and I'm spraying it just like it is too (hope I don't regret it) I'd just rather give advice that's gonna be safe in the long run, I KNOW +4 is safe, but don't want to say go +7 and he melts a piston :shrug:

I've got a set of cobra sparkys that you can have for shipping if you end up needing them. Just PM me if you ever are interested :beer:

That's exactly what I was thinking... It's real easy to bump it up from +4 once the plate is installed.

Man, that's a strange one...I definitely agree about not removing that nut on the top heim. Have you put a load on the suspension yet, or is that right after you set it on the ground and haven't sat on it, etc? Are the ball joints the exact same brand, etc as the ones you removed...just new? Is it the exact same scenario on both sides?

Too much gear for that tire w/ your mods. 14/41 is stock gearing. I would go back to a 14t front :beer:

Brace between the two bottom rails, gussets on the very back of the subframe where they meet the top of the subframe, and you could cut the little bracket for the chain roller...also can't tell from the pic, but if you run a no link, you can also cut the mount off that goes to the dogbone. bbruischart, the rules vary so much its really hard to say what the track is going to require...the things I listed are just the "common" items that most tracks want you to have. I highly recommend going to the track you want to run at and ask them before you do any major mods to your bike. Every track is different :shrug:

Well, I think the rules vary from track to track, but most IHRA (1/8 mile) tracks don't have a tech inspection and if they do, they aren't strict at all on rules like the NHRA tracks are...even still most NHRA tracks just require the basics (kill switch/helmet/boots/long pants/gloves) plus leather jacket and chain guard. As long as you don't roll up with a hoopty you should be fine, lol. I'll try and see if I can make some marks on the pics I already posted, but you can get a pretty good idea of what's missing if you look at a stock frame pic, then look at mine. There is a lot gone :biggrin:

Shoot yeah its worth it, I'm a heavy guy and have had good luck with mine. I still have more I "could" take out but I leave it in there just because of my weight. There is a lot more you can remove, I just counted 7 braces/gussets/bars you could cut, and there's probably more, depending on how light you want to be :biggrin: You'd really be amazed at what some people do to shave weight, some of it is crazy but worth it when trying to run the fastest you can...those stock frames are heavy!