bigboybanshee

Awesome, glad to hear you whacked it off, good luck with the rest of the install!!!!! :thumbsup:

Take a screwdriver and try to wedge it between the caliper mount and the spindle and see if you can wiggle it free. Pull the caliper straight out. You should be able to get the caliper off even with the brake guard (marked with pink lines) still attached.

Give it a good whack with the rubber mallet. Not just a few taps, whack it good...with a rubber mallet you shouldn't damage it either. If you have removed the brake caliper from the rotor, and you've removed the nut that holds the hub (part highlighted), then there is nothing else to keep that hub from coming off. If you need some more leverage, mount the wheel back on the hub and use the wheel to help pull the hub off. :thumbsup:

Thanks

Hey John, how did you mount the chain guard to the bike? Did it mount to the swingarm?

Sometimes water can sneak pass the seal on the stator cover, it used to happen to me all the time on my trail banshee when I'd hit creeks or pressure wash it

I would start by pulling the stator cover off and seeing if there's water behind it. What kind of "aftermarket air cleaner" are you running? Pull the carbs, clean them thoroughly, change plugs, and see what happens. :beer:

All I heard was that when Vick gave his plea, the judge asked him if he was sure he wanted to do it that way, cause he was taking a big chance by doing it. The way I look at it is, why in the hell would anyone bother fighting dogs if they didn't plan to bet on their own dogs, cause there wouldn't be any money coming back from it....and if Vick did as he said he did, aided in dog fighting but didn't bet on them to get a return profit (gambling), then that just shows how sick he really is...Either way he is fucked. It's obvious to the court that he's been lying from the start, so they already know he's full of shit...nothing he says has any credibility. He'll probably get 3-5 years and a lifetime ban from the NFL. :shrug:

Thanks Jeff!!!! I appreciate it!

96 GMC Sierra, my every day driver and toy hauler. :beer:

Check your reeds, I bet the right side is worn or has a broken petal! :beer:

I'm the same way Dave, I pay close attention and base my judgements on the average of what I see and hear. Seems to work well. :thumbsup: I'll check out that thread, I've been wanting to make a few more road trips this year...if I have the bottle on by then I'll give you three lengths and the hit if we race :biggrin:

lol, I'll still stick with my thinking, not saying anyone is right or wrong, this is strictly my opinion. We have had a few 10mils at our track running small bores hitting excellent times. I haven't personally seen any 421's run very well w/ big bore pipes, which is the main reason I say what I do. There are some 10mils that run really well w/ big bores though, I think it it all depends on the setup. I'll put my 421 up against any other 421 w/ big bores /similar rider weight /chassis and would put money on my bike...anyone up for the challenge? You can be on alcohol too, I don't care...We'll put all the guessing behind and give some real results. If the rider weight is an issue I have several friends standing by that would love to pilot my bike, ranging from 130lbs to 220llbs. :biggrin: To each their own though!!! :beer:

I was going to suggest the same! :biggrin: I think it will hurt your performance. In my opinion, if you're under 500cc's you need to stick to small bores. 500cc's and bigger, big bores all the way :shrug:

Drag pipes 100%, like Dave said, no point in choking the engine, let it breathe! Shearers work well, I'm a fan of GRR pipes but you'd have to find them used. There are several choices to choose from, any drag pipe should work well. Carbs - If you got a drag port then 39's all the way. Get the billet oversized bowls too. Please don't get a 2 into 1 carb unless you just like throwing money down the drain. They're fine for trail riding/duning but not recommended for a drag setup. :beer:

I learn from others mistakes and mine goes ring a ding ding all day long :biggrin: When you say your neighbors only run "top end", what exactly does that mean? Is there any particular distance you're running?

You just like stirring the pot, don't you...lol

I'm glad I'm not the only one around here wishing I could torture Michael Vick's ass...he is as pathetic and disgusting as it gets. What's sad is he won't get more than a year in jail, the best we can hope for is that his professional career is over and he spends the rest of his life receiving the negative attention he deserves. I don't understand how someone could even find ANY pleasure in doing what he did...the dog fighting isn't what pisses me off so much, it's the hanging, drowing, electrocuting, and beating the dogs to death because they didn't want to fight. Those poor dogs had to fight for their life, literally...kill or be killed My boss pointed me to this site so I could pick one of these up, it's a Michael Vick dog chew toy, I had to get one for my pit, should be in the mail in a few weeks. :beer: http://www.vickdogchewtoy.com/

WCR (Whitaker Racing) is the only one I know of that sells or cuts the 1-6 overrides. I do not have his phone number, but his screen name on planet sand is Yama007 I run his 1-5 duneable transmission in mine and it's worked very well

Is your banshee ported?

if I were you, I'd try it...you have nothing to lose!

Unless there is something I don't know about RS pickup coils, I say put the stock pickup coil on there, adjust the gap and you'll be good to go. And yes, if your pickup gap is off it'll cause a problem like you're having. You do know to adjust the pickup to the little tab on the flywheel, not the body of the flywheel, right? P.S. You don't have to start a new thread for each thing you think of...its better anyway to use one thread so people helping you out have a history of what you already did and didn't do. :thumbsup:

You can remove the RS stator from the timing plate and re-install the stock stator on the timing plate. It's only 3 screws, very easy to do. Should take no longer than an hour total to complete the job. After reading your latest posts, your problem is either the stator or a major air leak, just my opinion. Don't give up, you're almost there!

Have you checked to make sure the right side is in fact getting spark? Pull the coil wire and plug on that side, put the plug in the wire and hold it where the metal on the plug is touching the head, kick it over a few times and see if you get a spark. If you are getting spark, I'd check for air leaks...around the base of the cylinders and intake manifolds.

Got another vote here for a vacuum bleeder. I picked mine up from advance auto parts, works great, saved me a lot of time and pumping, lol