bigboybanshee

Had a great transaction with JT, quick to pay, no BS involved, a real straight shooter. Don't hesitate to deal with him. Thanks JT!! :beer: Travis

I have had this same problem with 2 of my banshees for the longest time, I don't understand what it is...If I let it sit for a while, It'll either take 20 kicks or a shot of carb cleaner in the choke tube/intake to get it started...but once the bike warms up, it'll fire up first kick all day long. If I change the pilot jet, it'll start when cold, but doesn't run that well at part throttle...I just started living with it, lol. I have fresh top end, good compression, bottom end is sealed, reeds are new, no leaking gaskets, carbs are clean and have been blown out w/ compressed air...I've only had this problem with the stock carbs though, I've never experienced this problem w/ aftermarket carbs. :shrug: Sorry I'm not much help, but figured I'd let you know you're not the only one, LOL

Did you check the shift shaft? It could be worn or slightly tweaked. Also, did you check the alignment of the shift shaft? Make sure the "claw" (for lack of better terms) is set correctly around the star or else it will give you trouble shifting. Also be sure that when you're riding, you drop your toe completely off the shifter after you shift...if you keep pressure on the shifter, it won't shift into the next gear...I caught myself doing this a lot last year, was causing me to miss shifts quite a bit.

Did you call Titan Racing? I posted a link and I'm sure his number's on the site

Well, you do have a good point Tyler, we got HAMMERED and did have a great time, that heater you brought was the shit! That along with the 2 foot round log w/ oil and gas on it, thanks to Big Blue, lol, I swear he is a pyro. I still owe you some Jack for all that I drank...that shit was goooooooood :beer: I already told myself the next time I go I'm getting a cabin out there, I already got an enclosed trailer for the bikes now, just got to keep myself warm and dry, lol

That's what I was going to say, the past 2 trips I've been to LS in the spring (April), first one was 16 degrees at night and there was snow on the ground when we got there, second trip was great temp wise, but had a monsoon that came through and washed out my camp...we stood in torrential rain and winds (gusts to at least 50-60mph) for 4 hours watching our tents get flooded and blown to bits, etc...not fun I've always had better luck in the fall out there, around October. :shrug:

http://www.titanracinginc.com/ Tim @ Titan racing can do it, I'm not sure on pricing, but give him a call, ask him how much it costs, as well as the benefits gained by boring a set of stockers.

That's no lie!! It is tedious and time consuming, but the benefits are well worth it IMO!

From what I understand, there is a nylon bushing or plastic bushing in there that melts. I have always been told that if you want to PC stock a-arms, then it would have to be cured by infrared lamps....just cannot put it in the oven. :shrug:

Hope you all stay warm and the power is restored quickly. I know it has to be tough in those conditions. I'll see if I can get FEMA to drop some FBT's over Jeff's place :biggrin:

In that case drop your mains and your pilots, I think the 48 is a little too big, probably could use a 45 for it.. I agree w/ KEV on the main, my buddy's 400 (done by Patriot racing) has 35mm carbs, pod filters, and is running 165 mains, but is also running drag pipes. 158/160 should be real close

That may be so, and the H2 is definitely making some power, but you won't come anywhere near its potential on a fabbed stock chassis. You'll need to make a fully stretched chassis to take advantage of that 150hp. The engine alone may be cheaper, but you still have to get 3 of everything, opposed to 2, which will make the cub a lot more appealing and cheaper in the long run, and in theory, a better bang for your buck. Just my .02

I agree, main seems too big, and if the plugs are wet, then it confirms you got too much gas flowin'...don't necessarily think your carbs are too much, just too big of a main jet. I'd try a 165 and see how it does

Go up one size on the pilot jet, you have the classic sign of it being too lean (pulling choke and it runs / runs better). It's showing now because colder weather makes your jetting leaner than it would be in the summer. Hot weather - go down on jetting Cold weather - go up on jetting Main jet would be determined by a plug chop :beer:

Thank you guys, all of you have been great to deal with as well!!!!!!!

That's awesome, thanks Skip! :beer:

Well, if you're going to be jumping it, when you land it'll be putting a lot of stress on those wheel studs. You may be able to run them w/ no problems, but I personally wouldn't do it. It's just my opinion. As far as just plain ol duning, trail riding, etc. the wheel spacers would be plenty fine....but I wouldn't go hitting any jumps w/ spacers on...but like I said, that's just me :shrug: Have you thought about maybe getting an offset wheel to add more width?

I wouldn't run spacers, just get an axle that's wider...especially since you're already in the market to buy one. PRM makes a good axle if you plan to dune the bike, not drag race it. On the front, I wouldn't think the power of the engine is going to have an impact on steering, but I would still stray away from spacers up front and go with a +2 + 1 set of a-arms.

Wow, really? I had no idea about that one...I have violated the rules on SEVERAL occasions then, LOL. What they don't know won't hurt them

The helmet should be just fine, and a tether, gloves, boots, and jacket are all "common" items that need to be worn at the asphalt strip. Some tracks are tight on the rules, some are more lax. The best thing to do is call the track before you go, like mentioned above :thumbsup: Also, be sure to ask if there are any requirements for your quad, not just you. Some tracks require chain guards, street tires, etc.

How about "Infinite Horizon Customs"

I'll bet the 10mil DM does run with a 20mil twister. I know of a 4mil DM running in the 3.70's, without a featherweight jockey. Those DM's are no joke, a lot of people under-estimate their potential, I know I did! The twisters can and do run well, but comparing them to DM's, I'd pick the DM hands down. Comparing twisters to cubs, it could go either way...just my thoughts :shrug:

I can't find any pics here at work, but all I did was get a piece of metal tubing, 3/4" OD and cut about a 2" section of it. Mounted the PT expansion pipe, stuck the 3/4" "adapter" in the outlet of the expansion pipe, then slid the silencer right over the other end of the adapter. Then slid my pipe clamp over it and tightened it down. Has worked very well for the past year, all the adapter really does is mates two female pipe ends together and keeps them lined up properly :thumbsup:

I ran a lockout on my bike last year with a stock transmission and had to slip the clutch between shifts. It didn't want to shift without it...Your thinking sounds right to me, you need the override for the clutch-less shifts. Lockout is to help prevent clutch slippage, override is for clutchless shifts, unless there is a new lockout on the market that does both. :shrug:

Competition series! I was actually wrong on the length of my shocks, they're 13.25", not 12.25" :: 12.75" is where I want mine to be...I had a brain fart yesterday. Here's how 12.75" sits, this is trex banshee's bike :beer: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=82625&hl=