bigboybanshee

This can also happen when the claw that grabs the shift star isn't lined up perfect. If memory serves me correct, if you have a little more gap between the top claw and pin on the shift star (which means a little less on the bottom) it'll up shift a little easier. Be careful not to do too much though, because if you do, it'll make it more difficult to downshift.

Thank you both for the great parts and quick shipping. It's been a pleasure dealing with you.

When I bumped my timing up +4 on my trail bike, I noticed a gain all around. I actually run it at +6 now. I run +8 timing on my drag bike, you would think if it hurt top end power I wouldn't advance my timing at all on the drag bike. In my opinion, too much compression will kill the top end performance of an engine, but will provide more torque. The idea behind it is to find the happy medium where you have optimum torque and HP, but that's a whole nother subject like 4stroker said :thumbsup: Increasing timing doesn't promote detonation, increased timing along with other insufficient variables will promote detonation. Timing alone doesn't do it. It's important to understand that. You can increase your timing +4, run 150 psi of compression, and still run 93 octane pump gas. Advancing your timing simply ignites the fuel a few degrees sooner which will ensure you're burning all the fuel in the cylinder. You won't really hurt performance with one of those plates if you keep your timing around 7 and below for gasoline, 9 and below for alcohol. If you have a stock to mild engine, you can't do any harm by advancing your timing +4. Something that small shouldn't warrant an octane increase even if you're close to the point where you'd need it. As long as you are mindful of your compression, fuel octane, and timing (as a whole), you won't have to worry about detonation unless you're running too lean, which would be a carb issue. :shrug:

Sounds like your idle/air screw may need a little adjustment. But nothing major, I wouldn't stop riding it because of what you're seeing.

That's exactly what I just put on my bike and I'm real happy with the performance gain. The bike has great response from bottom to top. I was going to recommend what most people are suggesting, 33-35mm carbs, depending on if you drag or dune more often. You could always do what I did and go with some 34mm PJ's, right in the middle :biggrin:

Thank you sir! I definitely appreciate that

There is a lot more to the electrical system than your coil and plug wires. Answer me this, how would your carbs being out of sync cause one cylinder to completely stop running?

Not plug gap, pickup coil gap, where the magnet on the flywheel passes the pickup coil. :thumbsup: If it idles good on both cylinders, I wouldn't think that reeds would be an issue. Now if it didn't run well at idle, and the problem got better as you give it gas, then I would suspect a reed. Reason being is that if a reed is broken, it will bring in too much fuel, causing that cylinder to get flooded when its idling...when you open it up, it'll utilize that extra fuel and start to clean up...it'll rev like shit with a broken reed, but that cylinder will start to run if you give it throttle. See if you can find someone with a "spare" CDI you can swap yours with, just to rule it out.

sounds to be electrical then, bad ground, loose connection...have you checked your pickup coil at the flywheel? Should be an .018-.020 gap

What kind of air filter setup are you running? I had a clogged outerwear cause these symptoms before. Idled OK but as soon as you gave it some gas only one cylinder ran worth a shit. I'd pull your air filter and run it, see if it helps.

Something to keep in mind in case you guys run into any problems :beer: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=90096

I think some 10 paddle extremes would be great for you then :thumbsup:

Glad to hear you guys are having great luck with yours, mine was running out of fuel. Changing the needle might have helped, but I don't think it could have been that drastic of a change to keep my engine from running out of gas. Float height was correct, i went through the carb several times. It's just not enough fuel for some setups, each one is different. I am now a firm believer that 2 cylinders should definitely have 2 carbs. Just my opinion though.

I guess the real questions are, do you plan to be drag racing this bike only, and are you going to run a wheelie bar or just a long swingarm if you do? Answering those will help decide on what tire you'll need for the best kind of traction. I ran 14 paddle extremes with a 72" RO last year and I would spin them real bad off the line and they'd finally start hooking by 3rd gear. I just picked up a set of 14 paddle extremes staggered, 78" RO for the 4mil on nitrous, and the 10mil later on...These bastards should get the job done :biggrin:

LOL, I have one for sale if you want to try! :biggrin: Here's my take on it. If you have a bolt on banshee with simple stuff, the setup is great. Once you start putting some heavier mods on it, it just isn't enough fuel. I have been battling with my 2 into 1 carb setup for a long time. I have the trinity setup with a 38mm Keihin PJ carb. I put it on there, it fires right up. As soon as I punch the throttle, it takes off like a scalded dog to 3rd gear then falls on it's face, chokes and dies. Have to come to a stop, pull the choke, and kick it 10 times to get the bike started again. Take off again, same thing. I wasn't sure if it was happening because I didn't have a big enough main (plugs were white), or if the bowl was running dry. I started off with adding a powerjet and it helped, the bike ran stronger but it still cut out and died by 3rd gear. I put my dual stock carbs back on there, problem solved, but the bike didn't run as fast. Here recently I put a pair of 34 PJ's on there and it runs like a bat out of hell now :smile: I just figured I'd share my experience, and help others make a decision before forking out several hundred dollars on a setup that may not be enough for your mods. On my trail bike I run: RDZ ported stock cylinders Trinity Head, running 165psi, on 110 Paul Turner mids Timing at +6 Ported stock reed cages, boyeson two stage reeds The 2 into 1 just wasn't enough...I was sucking the bowl dry :shrug: :beer:

Thanks guys, I'll go ahead and deal directly with them. Do you remember how long it took elka to get it done?

I got a pair of elkas that need to be re-valved, do I have to send them to elka or can any shock "builder" rebuild them for me? Thanks!

Epoxy. They weren't bad at all, just starting to get worn so I changed them, and I like these boyeson 2 stages a little bit better. VF2's w/ TDR epoxy reeds...the epoxy reeds are mainly for the nitrous. I'm still running them too, good deal you gave me, I definitely appreciate it :beer: Here are a couple pics I snapped last night, up close on the cages. I left them fairly big, so click on the pic and open it in a new window to see better :thumbsup:

Payment sent. If you do part it out, Dave and I are going to be fighting over some parts :biggrin:

No problem guys. If I can't get to it tonight, I'll have pics posted tomorrow afternoon for sure. I'll have a 2 into 1 intake and carb coming off and going for sale if anyone's interested. Intake, 38mm Keihin PJ carb w/ adjustable powerjet and K&N filter. 300 bucks shipped.

And your PM was returned as well. Consider it sold! Thanks!

I agree about grouping bikes within a half second, it would be much more fun and would eliminate a lot of potential bagging. I'm all about some index classes!! :beer:

I'd like to get the stock tank w/ pingel for 60+ shipping. Those are some great prices you have going, good luck on your sales :beer:

You'd be amazed. There were a lot of sandbaggers at the track I ran at in Mississippi, and they'd usually go pretty far in the rounds, but hardly ever win the whole night. You could hear them letting out early, blipping the throttle to the finish. In all fairness though, if I am bracket racing and my opponent is obviously not catching me, I'll let out and coast across the line...less chance to break out. If the race is close, I'll stay in it the whole way, but if I have more than 3 bikes on you, I'm not going to go all out if I don't have to...that's for the pro tree/heads up classes :beer: In regards to the topic, I've heard several good things about this track. There are a lot of fast bikes and several members of planet sand race there. It seems like a very nice place to race!

I'll take it. Please PM me how you would like payment and we can work out the details. Thanks