MILO

it sounds like a carb issue, which could be a number of things. as far as starting the right side carb bowl has a 'starter jet' in the bottom of it. if you have the bowls switched it will make for hard starting. make sure your crossover tube betweent the carbs is on. make sure you don't have the slides in backwards. the back side is cut out higher to allow it to flow at idle. check float height. put the needle clip in the middle notch. air screws 2 turns out. check the jet sizes and let us know what's in it. if he changed the jet sizes that could be the problem also. did you check compression after putting the new rings in?

for the cost of new reeds i would just replace them rather than have them shatter & throw chunks into the motor. any chance you've had a lot of dirt & debris flowing through, like from a dirty or worn out air filter? that would contribute to premature failure. really not good for the top end either.

it's always more difficult to push with it in gear and clutch in, motor not running, it's normal. usually if you give it a hard shove it will 'break loose' and roll but still with some resistance. as long as it works properly when running you should have nothing to worry about.

i wouldn't run the bike till you get in there and figure out what's going on. you don't want to be running it with pieces of a broken spring floating around. it's one of those jobs that will take 10x longer to get to it and put it back together than actually replace the broken spring.

i have never purposely run the carbs dry and don't really see a need to. i was always under the impression it was better to leave gas in it rather than let things dry out. Stabil isn't a bad idea if it's going to sit for a long time but I usually don't use it. The worst case scenario is having to pull the carbs and clean them before the riding season again. Mine basically sits between November - March and I usually don't have any problems getting it going again. I'll drain the old gas and put in new but otherwise it's usually good to go.

i'm with loco on this one. it sounds like it's most likely a jetting issue. especially if you're running it in 30 deg. temps and it's jetted for much warmer weather. find out your elevation and current jetting and carb settings and i'm sure somebody here can help fix the problem.

I get 99% of my stuff from Rocky Mountain. They list the replacement filter without the flange. This is for my '01 but you can select your year. I'm sure they are all the same anyway. RMATV

+3. if you have it together right you should be able to get through all the gears with things in motion. if not, you had better tear into it again before firing it up.

I replaced mine with a Hinson basket, stock inner hub and p-plate, and a Tusk clutch kit several years ago and it held up really well. I just replaced the clutch kit with a FAST kit but the basket, hub and p-plate were all still in great shape. Unless you go with a really well built motor, that kind of set up should be sufficient.

x3. i wouldn't go without one in the trails but you most likely would be fine without it in the sand.

i hate to say it but my banshee pretty much sits through the winter and the Grizzly takes over. damn, those ice studs look like the ticket for it though.

Unless I'm mistaken, the higher octane gas like the 110 and so on won't really make it run any better or have more hp. It just protects against detonation at a higher level which is usually required on a built motor, but mostly depending on the compression ratio. That being said, you should be running 110 or so to keep from frying your motor. But I don't think that's the root of your problems. It could very easily just be the reeds, dirty carbs, poor spark, etc. It's probably something simple bud, it's just a matter of narrowing it down.

Slide the metal support screen back into the foam some and use one clamp over the outside to help hold it in place. This should leave you enough of the rubber sleeve to slip over the mounting plate. Us the other clamp to hold it onto the plate.

Are you sure your jetting is right? 160's seem awfully small but i guess it depends on your elevation and other mods. the pickup at the flywheel is adjustable. if i remember correctly it should be gapped around .020" but you might want to double check that with a search here. a normal buisness card or match book cover will do the trick though if you don't have the feeler gauges. do you have other mods?? just for reference since we seem to running a similar set up, here's mine. ELEVATION 1200' HOT RODS 4 MIL LONG ROD STROKER WISECO 795 PISTONS NOSS MACHINE HEAD - 20CC CUSTOM CUT STROKER DOMES - .050" SQUISH BORED .020" OVER (64.5MM) HERR JUGS RACING AGGRESSIVE TRAIL PORT PLUS 5 TIMING PRO CIRCUIT PIPES / SILENCERS PRO FLOW ADAPTOR / FOAM FILTERS / NO LID - OUTERWEARS COVER V-FORCE V3 REED SYSTEM (CARBON FIBER REEDS) STOCK CARBS - 370 MAINS - NEEDLE 4TH CLIP - STOCK PILOTS - AIR SCREWS 2 OUT SUNOCO STD PURPLE - 110 OCTANE / CAM 2 163 LEFT - 163 RIGHT

my '07 GMC Sierra 6.0L 2500 HD... and since we're throwing cars into the mix... my '83 Firebird

On my last rebuild on my '01 it got bored .020 over, a 4 mil, ported, and +5 timing advance and it REALLY woke it up. I've had PC's along with some other stuff on mine also and it screams. As long as you can keep traction the front end is VERY light. It could be any number of things but start with the simple things first. Plugs, clean carbs, check the reeds, jetting, timing, etc.

I used the UPP Racing kit on mine. You do have to remove the swinger for the initial installation though. It seems to be holding up pretty good so far. UPP Racing

I went with HJR for my porting and rebuild work so I'll give him another vote since everything turned out great and I received excellent service from him. But that's not to say that F.A.S.T. wouldn't do the same. I think you would be safe & wise to choose either one over anyone else. Either way, let them do ALL of your work - getting the new pistons or using yours with just rings, boring, honing, porting, the whole deal. Everything should be matched together and it should be a 1 stop shop kind of thing.

never heard of that trick before,lol. it sounds like you need a good carb cleaning and tune.

are you nuts? don't give her the quad! you've given her too much already bud. it's bad enough that she dumped you, for whatever reason, now she wants you to kiss her ass. keep the quad and some pride, and let her suffer.

I've been running Pure Sport Bandit's on the rear of mine for several years. They are great in dry or muddy trails and have really taken a beating. I have ITP Holeshot XC's on the front and they seem to be doing well also. GBC Shredders seem to hook up pretty well also in the trails. Both have held up well through all the trail bashing.

you'll like the pc pipes for trails. they have a decent top end to them too for the dunes. they are a pretty good all around kind of pipe. and persoanlly i think they are one of the best sounding. and yes, i have them on my banshee. i also have the v3's. which seems to make a pretty good combination.

holy shit, what a combination. :biggrin: i installed the cascade shift pro, modified shift star, and a FAST modified shift shaft. this has to be the smoothest tranny i've ever felt. i'm sure that individually each mod is noticable, but the combination of the three is unreal.

it sounds like you just need a good carb cleaning and float adjustment. both carbs should be set the same. measure from the carb to bowl mating surface without the gasket in place and your height to the highest point of the floats should be about 20-22mm, or about 13/16"- 7/8". slightly bend the tab over the needle jet to adjust as needed. make sure everything is clean and moving freely also.

that big screw on the TORS is the idle adjusment, so yeah, that could be the problem.