MILO

glad to hear that you found it bud. match it up to the other remaining spring part and try to determine if there are any pieces missing or if the break points match up to one another. you got lucky bud. :thumbsup:

yikes, that sucks. i guess that's where a magnetic drain plug would come in handy. how big of a piece are you missing? it's possible it could be lodged somewhere yet. i would screen the oil that you drained just to double check for metal debris. maybe even take one of those little flexible telescopic handled magnets and probe around as much as possible around the inside of the drain hole or oil flow holes. if you are sure it is missing and didn't come out, i would crack the cases before running it again.

i never really checked the temps before my build to be able to make a comparison, but i bought an inline cooler as added insurance during my winter build. so where is the best location for it? i'm assuming between the head and the rad would be the ideal location, right? i'm not sure if it's going to do much but it can't hurt as long as it doesn't leak around it. i'm already planning on engine ice and already have a pd impeller, so it's just added insurance but i might as well make the best of it. so where should i put it? oh yeah, and it's already paid for so i'm not just going to toss it in a box or the trash if they really aren't worth the bother. at least it will look cool. and have everybody saying "what's that?" :biggrin:

i've been running EBC severe duty pads on mine. they survive all kinds of water and mud trail riding and still grab strong. :thumbsup:

:thumbsup: FAST

badasshee, you can't go wrong with a FAST build either bud :thumbsup:

i did the same thing and like trail rider the lens bubbled out. my stock light cages got broken out by getting roosted long before that though. i just took the lights off and trimmed the mesh off of the cover and put it back together. i keep the covers on 99% of the time anyway and if not the lights are on so it's not like you can really see that the mesh is gone anyway.

i'm relatively new to the 4 mil set up myself. but from what i've seen & read a 4 mil long rod stroker crank with custom cut stroker domes is the way to go. and have your porting done at the same time as the crank installation so your engine guy can do the porting to match your stroke. it seems the most popular is the hot rods crank & wiseco pistons. that's what i put in mine. i sent my cylinders to Herr Jugs Racing to be bored (they were scored) and get ported. talk to your porting work guy about what mods you want to do and what you expect out of the build and he can hook you up accordingly. then you can put it all together yourself if you want. by the way, i purchased my crank and pistons from HJR when he did my port work. that way he knew exactly what the build would be and could work his magic. :thumbsup:

i've been running pure sports bandits on my banshee for a while. they are awesome in the trails, mud, hardpack, hill climbing, whatever. you get them in wet grass in the yard though and it's like riding a sit & spin, lol. but i would imagine that any banshee in wet grass is a slip & slide ride. we put shredders on my nephews blaster and he really seems to like them too.

you're in luck! i haven't finished my clutch and put the side cover on yet. the only difference i can see is it's ground out around where it would catch on the eccentric shaft.

that's good cuz i have about a dozen new B8ES plugs on hand already. thanks bud :thumbsup:

do you guys run a different plug with your 4 mil builds? i've always run the stock B8ES in my banshee with my other mods. but now it's going to be a 4 mil, ported, .020 over, +5 timing motor on top of the normal bolt ons.

i'm working on getting my 4 mil build back together. i sent my cylinders out to Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing to be bored & ported. you definitely want to let whoever does you cylinder work have the pistons on hand to match everything. i got the custom cut domes and crank from him also. you couldn't ask for a cooler guy to deal with for all that stuff either. professional but friendly and patient with any questions or anything that you have. i'm doing all the other work myself though.

i'm working on getting my 4 mil, HJR ported motor back in and running. i'm waiting on a clutch kit from Jeff @ FAST to close it up and finish things off. should i do a compression test before firing it up or wait till it has been run a little first? i know that normally you do it with the motor warmed up but i'm unsure what gas i'm going to run yet. Kevin at HJR told me to run min. 110 octane with my setup and i'm sure i can get either 110 or 112 from a local guy. should i just go with the 112 to start to be on the safe side? also how do you calculate the compression ratio? it sounds like that is as much or more important than just compression test results in determining what octane fuel to run. and should i run a hotter plug or just stick to the B8ES that i'm running now. MODS: PC pipes & silencers pro flow foam filter - no lid v3's noss head - custom cut 20 cc stroker domes 4 mil long rod stroker bored .020 - wiseco 795's .050 squish +5 timing advance HJR aggressive trail port (dune port) about 1200' elevation

my upper steering stem mounts were worn and had some slop in them so i bought new ones to put on. i didn't see any play in the bottom bearing until the top was unhooked, now it seems to move quite a bit. is it supposed to pivot a little or should it be a normal snug fit with no slop?

i just got my motor back together last night, well this morning after pulling an all nighter on it. i'm just waiting on a clutch kit to finish it out, get the quad back together, and get some gas. i'm anxious to see how much difference this HJR port job and fresh 4 mil and top end brings to the table. it should be one kick ass ride!!!

i'm not sure about the a-arms :shrug: those swinger bearings can be a real bitch to get out. be glad that your pivot bolt came out. they get rusted in there sometimes too and can be a real pain in the ass. lots of wd 40 or pb blaster, time to soak, and a BMFH. heating it may help if you have the tools to do so.

a FAST clutch is on the way. hopefully it holds up well. :thumbsup:

i'm no jetting expert, but to me it sounds like the pilot needs changed. post about it in the jetting and exhaust forum and i'm sure you'll get more feedback. :cool:

is it really tight in the hub? i broke one once and after it snapped the pressure was off and it turned out relatively easy once i could get hold of it. i used a small screwdriver and hammer and tapped on the broken edge at an angle and it turned right out till i could grab it with some pliers to twist it out. maybe i just got lucky though, lol.

assuming that your filter is clean, slides are in properly and sync'd, and the carbs are clean, and your plugs are good - it sounds like it's your pilot.

i agree, it sounds like a broken reed. i'd do a good carb cleaning while you have them off to check the reeds though too.

the FAST clutch isn't a standard clutch kit is it? aren't some of the parts out of an R1 or something?

last summer i only had my banshee out maybe once a month if i was lucky. everytime i started it the clutch wouldn't work do be able to get into gear. it would stall if put it in gear so i'd get a rolling start, pop it in gear, then tool around. after a few minutes it would release and work normal. i have everything apart at the moment and there doesn't appear to be anything wrong. i didn't measure the plates yet but they are not burnt at all and the fibers don't appear to be worn. there was no slippage once it started working right again, not even to 5th or 6th gear. was it just from sitting so much and the fibers would go dry or am i just in for a new clutch kit? should i just throw in a new kit anyway while i have my motor apart? it's a tusk kit in it now. any recommendations on a different brand for about the same price or should i just stick with tusk.

i haven't gotten my motor all back together yet, but i will say that Kevin at HJR was very easy to deal with. He seemed professional yet friendly and patient enough to answer any dumb ass questions that i had, lol. I'm really anxious to get mine up and running. I've heard nothing but good things about HJR so i'm sure i won't be disappointed.