MILO

understood. thanks bud.

it may be the clutch push arm bearing binding up. but it sounds like a good adjustment starting with the push arm may help. i'd just throw in a new set of plates while you're in there, since it has set that long.

yeah, i'd say it's the rad hose protector. you gotta love those "factory extras" that you have after doing a repair :biggrin:

i have several bottles of yamalube 2R left over from last year, and a few bottles of Bel-Ray Gear Saver. how long can you keep new, unopened bottles and safely use them?

hey bud, you made the right choice on the 450. that's a steal for a new ride out the door. personally i like the banshees better, but that's too good of a deal to pass up on a great machine. :thumbsup:

yeah, the PJ1 filter oil is what i have. thanks for FAQ link though :cool:

well, i forgot to mention it but i'm having the cylinders ported and getting the stroker domes and will be installing it all together. so i was concerned about everything lining up like it's supposed to. i'm assuming that HJR is assuming that a stock base gasket will be used since i ordered the stroker domes rather than a spacer plate. or is the stroker gasket actually the spacer plate that i've been reading about?

i'm working on a 4 mil build and i need to know if i should use the stock cylinder base gaskets or something else. i've seen gasket kits supposedly for strokers but i figured the stock gaskets would keep the cylinder height where it should be. let me know if i'm wrong.

i guess i'm just curious as to how the outerwear "lid" can be water repellent and still flow air really well.

LOL, no but I'm not afraid to get my shee a little (a lot) wet & muddy. :biggrin: yeah, i'm going to order a new seal along with some other stuff. :cool:

did you have to rejet with the outerwears on? or do they flow really well?

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? pro circuit 2) What type of airfilter do you have? pro design foam 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all b 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 1250 5) What size pilot jets are you using? stock 6) What size main jets are you using? 370 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 70-90 8) Do you have a port job? not yet 9) What kind of carbs? stock 10) What size carbs? stock

if you have an impact wrench you can spin it right off pretty easily. if you don't have that or a tool, you can stick a rag in between the gears to lock them up enough to break the nut loose. i wouldn't use anything hard to try to hold the gears, a rag should do the trick. that's how i hold it to tighten it back up again also. make sure you bend the tab back on the lockwasher that is behind it before trying to loosen it. don't be offended bud, i've seen people struggle to loosen it and they didn't bend the tab off of the nut. it's just a helpful tip.

i have the air box lid off & i'm running trails in the woods, mud, dust etc. and i get lots of junk passing through my foam filters. i'm working on a rebuild at the moment and i don't want shit going into my new top end. so which would be better to use, filter oil or an outerwears, or both? the oil can be tricky cuz using too much and shee won't run to well, yeah i found that out the hard way, lol. i just wondered if an outerwears would be the best solution.

i just put a set of shorty ASV's on my R1 and love them. they are by far one of the best made levers out there and are worth the extra $$ for them. hopefully i'll get a set for the shee sometime too.

well, it sounds like i should be ok then. thanks guys.

i'm working on a rebuild and was wondering if my clutch set up should hold up to the mods. i have a hinson basket (replacing cushions also), relatively new stock hub and p-plate, tusk kit. 3 hd springs, 3 stock . - pc pipes / silencers - pd pro flow adaptor/filter - v3's - stock carbs (jetted of course) - noss head - 4 mil stroker w/795's - + 4 timing advance - HJR aggressive trail port - mod'd star - shift pro kit i'd love to go with a full hinson set up but it's just not in the budget right now. if it becomes a necessity, i'll have to stretch this build out a little longer, lol.

yeah, surprisingly i've been reading about more and more guys just replacing them with a new stocker rather than aftermarket. usually aftermarket stuff is an upgrade, but i've heard nothing but troubles with other brands. alright, i'll just clean it up good and use it as is. thanks bud. :beer:

here's some pic's.... it's a wonder it even ran, lol.

my stator has obviously been exposed to water many times and has significant corrosion and so on. i started to clean up the contact points and noticed that some of them have the plastic coating on the surface and only a strip of metal exposed in the center, and some have the plastic almost worn off and almost the entire surface exposed. is that a problem or will it be ok to use it as is? i really don't want to replace it if i don't have to. i'll try to get some pic's and post up.

will do. :thumbsup:

i'm in the process of getting a 4 mil crank, porting, bore/hone also. this may sound like a dumb question but i saw a set of cylinder base gaskets for a stroker crank. what's that about? you can just use the standard stock cylinder base gaskets right? i'm getting stroker domes so there won't be any spacer plates anywhere either.

i think i'm going to go with the cascade shift star and the shift pro kit. moto-man had the best price i found on it too. sounds like a plan. thanks guys.

does the shift pro kit come with the shaft or just the spring & plate/roller?

is it worth doing both of the mods or just one or the other?. i have the cases split and cleaned and shipped the jugs to HJR for porting, bore/hone, and a few other things. i figured while i have it apart i might as well smooth out the tranny too. i've searched and found all kinds of info on both but nothing as far as which is best to do, or if both should be done together.