MILO

ok, so it's not like it's going to cause any mechanical issues just by having all of the components in there, in a way that something is not going to work like it's supposed to. it sounds more like it's a personal preference thing. so what happens? do you end up not letting the shifter return to it's normal position completely after an upshift, or can you not feel that you made the shift completely to begin with? i'm getting concerned here now cuz i mostly ride with mx boots and you know how that changes your shifting habits to begin with due to lack of ankle flexibility and feel of things. it doesn't ever down shift when you don't want it to does it? like when you land a hard jump or something? i'm just trying to figure out how you are missing shifts or getting between gears. :shrug: i mean, is it something that you can adjust yourself to, or is it a real mechanical problem with bad consequences?

i'll mostly be trail riding my banshee. just your average country area riding. trails, farm areas, hillclimbing etc. no dunes here in pa, and i'm not going to drag it.

99 % of the time i'll replace the gasket and maybe use a thin coat of yamabond to help seal it up. new seals, like around the kickstarter, pack the lip with grease and press it in. i'd advise against reusing old seals and gaskets unless it's an emergency fix.

so this is safe to do with any style crank. i just put in a hot rods 4 mil crank and was thinking about trying this out before finishing everything up. it looks like a simple yet successful leak down tester. and 1 lb / minute loss is the tolerable # right?

BUMP... any other thoughts??? anyone???

it sounds like you need to replace the seal around the kickstarter shaft. :cool:

i'm putting my motor back together after having the cases split to install a 4 mil crank. while in there i added the cascade shift pro kit, mod'd shift star, new eccentric shaft and a new torsion spring for the shaft. i didn't realize how bad the shift shaft mechanism was worn till i replaced the old spring, it was all grooved out where the spring rides and no matter how much i messed with it, i couldn't get the adjustment from the eccentric shaft correct. so i ordered a mod'd shift shaft from FAST with the ez spring. so with all 3, the shift pro, shift star, & mod'd shift shaft, are there any drawbacks or problems to look forward to down the road? i'm thinking that they would just compliment each other rather than cause any problems but you never know.

you are kidding right? i'm not going to start comparing 2 strokes to 4 strokes, adults to the childish bullshit i've been reading in this thread, or even begin to claim to be more knowledgable about the banshee than everyone else here. but i can tell you that there's nothing wrong with a banshee being in the woods. if you don't like a banshee in the woods it's most likely because you don't know how to handle one in the woods. once you learn to, it's a hell of a great ride, just like anywhere else that a banshee has been built to run at. i'm not saying it is the absolute best in the woods, but definitely buildable and capable of being an awesome trail bike. if you guys would provide realistic answers or applicable suggestions to a guy's question rather than bickering over stuff like a bunch of little kids, the guy might actually learn something beneficial to him and his quad. and don't give me this bullshit of "well if you knew your shit" blah, blah, blah. everyone of you assholes with that attitude was a noob to this at one time too and had to learn by asking questions and seeking help from friends, shops, or places like this. and SOME people were decent enough to provide you with some relevant and helpful replies. it's a shame that some can't return the favor for somebody else now. i looked into this thread cuz i'm building a 4 mil stroker with a bunch of other mods too and i TRAIL RIDE my banshee. some open farming areas and hillclimbing and stuff too. i've read 5 pages of bullshit that has me no farther ahead than when i opened this thread. i guess i'm gonna do what i'm gonna do with my shee and ride it and love it regardless of what some of you asshats here think. i greatly appreciate any help that i have received from answers to the questions i had about my build. actually some of the same guys in this thread have helped me out. but it's dissappointing to see that this thread was pretty much a complete waste of time to read. :cool:

hmm, where to begin.... i'm running yamalube 2-R on 92 octane / 32:1. doing plug chops on hot motor, change to new plugs, kill it at WOT 6th gear, put old plugs in for the ride home, then chop them. needle is either in stock position or 1 above, i don't recall for sure anymore. there is no bog whatsoever at top end and it runs smooth all through the throttle. starts & idles fine too. as far as porting, i'm working on it. i just got my cylinders back from HJR for an aggressive trail / dune port, and waiting on a few other parts from the local shop to get it together again. it's going to be a 4mil long rod, wiseco 795's, custom stroker domes, .020 bore, + 4-5 timing advance. along with the previously mentioned mods in the original post. i'll be running min. 110 octane with the new build. so you think the mains will actually go lower with the porting? i'm planning on checking the plugs asap after getting it running again. you think i'll be safe with the 370's after the above changes long enough to check them out? at least i feel better knowing that it's not a completely uncommon size for the mains. i guess it takes whatever it takes, every ride is a little different.

i've seen so many posts on here with similar mod's that have way smaller mains than what i'm running. i'm just curious about what's going on. i know every quad is a little different but mine seems much higher than most that i've seen. There's no air leaks that I'm aware of. MODS: - Pro Flow adaptor, foam filter, no lid - stock carbs - V3's - noss head 20cc domes - PC pipes / silencers - elevation 1200' - summer temps in pa, 70-90 Here's a pic of my last plug chop, after making the last mods to it. I'm wondering cuz I'm working on a 4 mil stroker build with a few add ons at the moment and wondering what to expect with jetting, if anything. But I'm going to do a plug chop asap when it's running again.

ok so it sounds like it's not a bad idea to have one for those unfortunate incidents. i've heard of others having some problems with the pro designs too so i might just stick with the pro armour one. i'll tag it on my next order with RMATV, probably today. i'm not one to crash often, pretty rarely actually. but i've been dumping more and more $$ into my banshee and i guess it would just be a little insurance to save it if needed.

i'm debating if i want to get one or not. of course it seems like a good idea in case you crash so the quad doesn't roll off without you, lol, or flip and stick the throttle open and sit there screaming till you can reach it. it looks like most of them would replace the key switch, which is not a big deal to do. i was looking at the pro armor one with the t-handle reset. but i wonder how many people actually run one and if it's worth the bother. i run mostly woods trails, open farming areas, & some hillclimbing. just normal country life riding, no dunes or anything. maybe once a year trip to a local mx track to play around.

i'm like a lot of other guys i guess. i never verbally call it the "shee" but i will type it on the forums sometimes.

ok, so i've seen the MON #'s when i was searching around different sites. i think that was on the Sunoco or Bazell site. so you're saying that if i go with the Sunoco 110, or Cam2 (same thing) that i should be fine, because it's actually lists at 105 MON, right? and how does it usually compare to regular gas prices. i mean, you guys that are paying around $7 or more / gallon, what's the average 92 / 93 prices in your area? it's like $2.19 here.

ok, thanks again for the help guys. i don't even have all of my parts back yet to get her back together so in the mean time i'll be scouting around to see what i can come up with for gas and prices. at least now i know what to look for. :beer:

if i remember correctly i cut the wires near the harness, removed the wires to the perch, and spliced the wires back together to create the loop. after you get it unhooked you won't need all the parking brake crap on the perch either. rather than buying a new perch to clean it up i took the grinder to the stocker and repainted it. here's a pic of mine....

well, i'm talking from 103-04 vs. 110.

I haven't completed the TORS eliminator yet cuz the kit is on the way, but just to help clean things up a bit I traced the TORS wiring and disconnected it all where it attaches to the harness, removed the box, and the wires to the throttle. I don't like stuff hanging around that's not even being used, if you don't need it, get rid of it. Rather than just cutting the wires at the throttle and leaving them hang, I pulled the cover, removed the wiring, and plugged the hole in the rubber grommet with silicone. It's really simple to bypass any of the switches. I lost my key once and was about 120 miles from home. in about 5 minutes I had it hot wired and ready to go, lol. It looks like a new stock switch runs $128 So if you don't need the light switch, ditch the stocker and the toggle and go with a PD like loco has or something. Or at least try to find another used one.

thanks for the info guys. it sounds like the only big difference will be how it hits my wallet, LOL. can running a higher octane than needed have an adverse affect on performance or longevity for the top end? i'm not sure about availability in my area yet and if i have to travel 50 miles to get it i might as well stick with the guy that's 10 minutes away that has 110.

I spoke with Kevin at HJR today about my engine work and he said that I should run 110 gas with my new build, so I have a few questions about what I'll need to change or what to expect. I've never run race gas before and I didn't really have time to think about questions about it while we were on the phone. I'll call him back if needed but i figured you guys could help out too. Here's what I'll be running... - Hot Rods 4 mil / Wiseco 795 pistons - Stroker domes - 20 cc - HJR aggressive trail port - 4 to 5 timing advance - Noss head - PC pipes / silencers - V3's - PD Pro Flow foam / no lid - elevation around 1200' Does fuel consumption change drastically running the 110? Does it affect pre-mix ratios? Will I most likely have to rejet? That's really all I can think of so are there any other things that will need adjusted, changed, or things to watch out for?

I spoke with Kevin at HJR today and my cylinders are shipping out tomorrow morning :woot: I can't wait to get this all back together. Anyway, he said the stock gaskets should be used. :thumbsup: I guess that it can vary depending on your set up so for anybody else, check with your builder just to be sure. Otherwise the results could be disasterous.

i think that the only item that i've heard on here in which the stocker is better than aftermarket is the stator. anything else i've seen or read about has been UPGRADED to an aftermarket component. if your dealer is charging you $150 just for 1 piston they are RAPING YOU! even on the yammy dealer microfiche it lists as $71. but the wiseco's are the way to go.

you guys are a bunch of smart ass assholes! funny, but still smart ass assholes :laugh: c'mon, somebody has to have some sort of educated, proven kind of answer. i've been asked about it before, and i've asked others before and everyone has a completely different opinion. anything from a year to letting your grandchildren inherit it, lol. i know that what i have will be just fine to use but somebody has to know something beyond that. you guys are letting me down here. :biggrin:

i haven't heard anything about the cylinder work yet, but i'm sure i'll be talking to him soon. i'll make sure to ask him about it.

LOL, :biggrin: i'm serious bud. i've never had any oils left over like that before and i was just curious how long they will keep. i'm assuming they are fine to use, but let me explain why i asked.... a lot of guys that i know that store vehicles over the winter months will put fresh oil in before storing them, then change it out in the spring. supposedly the oil will break down and become acidic causing clutch issues and corrosion in the crankcase when left unused for a long period of time. i'm sure that's only with already used oil though, and that unopened, unused oil will keep for a long time. but it just made me curious as to how long it can be stored and used without any issues. flame away if you like, LOL. :biggrin: