MILO

return it and get an eliminator kit. :thumbsup:

crossover tube in place, carb bowls switched, floats need set, carbs in sync. that's where i'd start. if all is good, i'm sure someone here can help you dig a little deeper.

do you have any mods done to the tranny or clutch? it sounds to me like you just need to get used to your ride. maybe you need to reposition your shifter?

i agree. i have a few yamaha shirts and carhart shirts with the lettering / logo on the sleeve. i think they're cool looking. :cool:

you really need something to keep the hardcore banshee spirit alive, especially in this world of 4 strokes now. how about... Yamaha Banshee - Roosting 4 strokes since 1987... BansheeHQ.com - Where the Legend lives on. - Where the fast get faster. or something of that nature, lol. you know i want a free shirt if you use my ideas right? :biggrin: oh yeah, size XL. :biggrin:

nice concept :thumbsup: could have centered the logo on the hood a little better though. otherwise, that's cool.

basically, my newly HJR ported and bored, 4 mil long rod stroker banshee is a beast. Kevin was great to deal with and my banshee has really come alive now. i'd definitely recommend anyone to HJR to have their work done. :thumbsup:

personally, i wouldn't grind on any new piston for any reason. that's just asking for a disaster to happen. i'd rather have the porting corrected to match the stroke & pistons.

i agree, ditch the TORS. it's just another one of those banshee things that is destined to fail sooner or later. a TORS eliminator kit really cleans up the carb area nicely too.

exactly, that's why i leave mine off. occasionally we have to cross a creek too so i figured it would be best to let the water just run right back out if any does get in the box.

asv levers kick ass. i have them on my R1 and would love to have them on the banshee. they are very well made and 100% rebuildable. i'm sure there are other black levers out there though, keep looking if you don't like the asv prices. but they are worth it in my opinion.

drewski, i guess it depends on what you call a puddle. :biggrin: with the stock setup you shouldn't be seeing any water in the box. i trail ride mine in wet muddy conditions sometimes without a lid on the box. it gets a little wet, but not too bad. hopefully the outerwears cover i just put on will help keep things out a little more. especially those damn little seeds from the weeds. i hate picking those little buggers out of the filter. :mad:

cool, thanks. those were brand new plugs before the first kick. yeah, i'll use some spankin new plugs again later for the plug chop. niiiiice!! :smile: thanks for checking it out and the input guys.

that's definitely a cool build. i'm sure you'll fool a lot of unsuspecting bikers. :ninja: :thumbsup: i agree, lose the suzuki stickers. nice job bud. :thumbsup:

i'm a newb to the pancake bearing also, but i don't see why it would cause any problems having the arrows lined up. the arrows are just a guideline for initial setup so if all else is well, proper adjustment can be achieved easily. clutch set ups vary and arrow alignment varies with it. i would think that as long as the clutch works properly and you have decent engagement and disengagement, and proper play at the lever then it should be fine regardless of using a pancake bearing or stock adjuster. the pancake or stocker is just an adjustment tool to achieve proper clutch operation. if the clutch works right, i'd run with it whether the arrows line up or not. someone correct me if i'm wrong.... :geek: by the way, i'm running a hinson basket, stock inner hub and pressure plate, a FAST clutch kit and the pancake bearing. my arrows line up and i have about 1/2 of the perch adjuster still in the perch for further adjustment. and everything works just fine.

i just installed the cascade exhaust clamps and the sealing portion used appears to be nothing more than a reinforced heater or coolant hose. anything that will withstand the heat and put on with 2 clamps should be fine, i would think. it's not a good thing, but it's not the end of the world if it would leak a little bit anyway.

everything checked out cool, i think. it fired up on the 2nd kick, i ran a heat cycle or two, retorqued the head, when for a short easy rip, let her cool down, rode for a few minutes longer again, and checked compression. i got 163 on each cylinder and here's a pic of the plugs at the time of compression test. i think they look ok so far, what do you guys think? they were pretty much a consistent light chocolate brown. no oil, dry flaking, no apparrent hot spots, no deposits, no glazing. now keep in mind that this is nothing over half throttle. i'll do a plug chop once i get it broken in some more. does the compression sound right? - 4 mil long rod, custom cut 20cc domes, 795 pistons, bored .020, HJR aggressive trail port, +5 timing, noss head. elevation 1200'. the tranny shifted smooth in every gear and the clutch felt good, no leaks anywhere, runs & idles fine, no predet pinging or knocking or anything that i could tell. every thing seemed ok as far as i could tell.

i'm running 110 race gas in mine now, but i'm still using yamalube 2R @ 32:1. that's what i've run from day one, well besides the 24:1 initial break in period. it smokes just a tad but it is a 2 stroke after all. i feel much safer at 32 rather than 40:1. it all depends on what oil you use though. i installed a Chariot racing timing plate also. it seems to be pretty well made and bolted right up. :thumbsup:

did you replace the basket with a stock one or aftermarket? it sounds like either the cushions are worn or the screws weren't tightened properly (aftermarket basket). what kind of shape were the inner hub and pressure plate in?

hey 2001stroker, can you help me with this calculator? i'm not sure what numbers to plug in the fields. i'm not exactly sure what the field descriptions actually are. i can tell you this.... hot rods 4 mil long rod stroker crank wiseco 795 pistons bored .020 over custom cut 20cc stroker domes HJR aggressive trail port / dune port .050" squish

hmm, i installed a pancake bearing recently and adjusted the clutch as usual, lining up the arrows as close as i could. mine works fine. :shrug: you sure that you have the right clutch kit for your bike? installed the rod then the ball? fingers on the basket aren't grooved out? spring bolts all tightened properly? cable routed the same? actuator arm wasn't worn? i'm just tossing things out there bud, so don't get offended, lol.

with those mods i would definitely add the timing plate and most guys seem to start with +4. i wouldn't recommend returning to any builder who advised against the advanced timing. the goal is to get peak performance out of your ride right? as said before, in combination with some other mods that's one of the best bang for the buck mods around.

i'm with AKheathen. check that the hose is in place between the carbs and that the carb bowls have not been switched. the left side bowl has the 'starter jet' in the bottom of it. also double check that the slides in the carb have not been swapped or in backwards. make sure your filter and carbs are clean and you have good plugs. basically, check the easy stuff first. :cool:

it sounds like it's a questionable 'mod' after all, lol. but like i said i'll hook it up anyway as i can't foresee any negative impacts from having it as long as it doesn't leak. bling bling thanks guys.

i live in pa and sent my jugs to HJR also. it was close to $40 shipping each way. you need to talk to Kevin personally about your build prior to sending your stuff out. he can help you determine what will be best for your set up depending on what kind of riding you do and what you expect out of your build. don't forget to include a note or something with your personal info and what you want done with the build. i sent him a list of my other performance mods and elevation and so on that may be relevant to the build also. Kevin is a cool guy to deal with. i just need a few more things thrown back on my bike and i'll be able to fire it up to see how it works. :woot: