MILO

how much did you run it with the 200 mains in it? with the PC's and snorkel removed you may have been running really lean and the quickly evaporating 'smoke' may mean other problems if it's backfiring & smoking from only one cylinder. You're best off to not even fire it up after the mods until you get a ballpark jetting set up. Otherwise, double check everything. plugs, clean carbs, sync'd, set air screws around 1.5 out, no air leaks, etc. Make sure the crossover tube between the carbs is in place too. Might want to pull the reed cages & inspect reeds too. With the cages out you can see the piston to inspect for damage also. Pull the exhaust off to see the front side as much as possible also. If all is well, toss in the biggest jet these guys recommended & start dialing the mains.

Sorry bud, I guess you don't want any stickers or tags on it. I like the black rivet idea. There are small black plastic rivets that hold some of the plastics together on my R1. They have a relatively small head, shiny black so they're pretty inconspicous, and could be taken out anytime. If they hold my plastics together at 150+ mph they'll work fine for filling a hole on your Banshee, lol. Any Yammy dealership should be able to hook you up with some. They're like $2 each though.

Yep, You need to dial in the mains first bud. Start bigger than you think you'll need & go down till you get rid of the WOT bog, and do a plug chop to make sure your safe & not too lean. Adjust the needle clip to clean up the mid range, and then go to the pilots/air screws.

I would guess that it is a jetting, air/fuel issue. Jetting isn't about RPM's, gears, or speed so much as throttle position. Make sure your mains are dialed in first then work your way through the rest to clean it up in different throttle ranges. You need to head to the jetting/exhaust board.

A few hours of riding is NOT worth the possible damage caused by shattering plates or especially the basket itself. I wouldn't take the risk.

I covered them with a sticker.

No way man. Why complicate things with fuel injection? Unless you've already installed every other go fast mod out there & have nothing left in your engine to modify, there are much better options to spend 2g's on.

I'm not going to say that mine is 'the best' set up for trails but it is wicked fast for trail riding. here's the basics - bored .020 over, HJR aggressive trail port, 4 mil long rod stroker crank, Noss head w/ custom cut domes, + 4 advance, V3's, open air box w/Pro Design filters, Pro Circuit pipes. All of it together kicks ass over the stock set up & is awesome for ripping around the trails. That black Banshee looks really cool bud.

I've been running Sunoco 110 in my Banshee and haven't had any issues. I get it 5-10 gal at a time from a local dealer who supplies a lot of the local dirt tracks, drag strips, & basically local guys like myself. He just syphens it from the drum & I screen it when I get home. It's kept in a 5 gal regular gas jug in my garage which is usually relatively cool & 0 sun exposure. I usually only mix enough for the ride I'm doing at the time. Sometimes a gallon, sometimes a tank full because it's likely to sit for a while. I haven't noticed any issues with it yet.

Agreed, 2R is just fine. If you're fouling plugs, getting gummed up, etc., you have other issues going on that need addressed. Switching oils may be enough to change things slightly, but isn't the root of the problems.

this isn't a walkthrough but basically the end result. you need to follow the plug chop steps, then cut the threaded section of the plug away so you can see the center, very carefully using a hacksaw or dremel. i removed the whole thing just to see if it was consistent all around, cuz sometimes it's not and you need to go a little bigger on the mains. get a stock of plugs because obviously it destroys the new plugs, but a few dollars in plugs is well worth it vs. engine failure. this is basically what you're looking for, about a 2mm light chocolate colored smoke ring

180 per cylinder? personally I wouldn't even run it till you figure out what all is done to the motor, the compression ratio, & figure out what octane you need to run. if you want to stick with high octane pump gas changing out the domes should get you there. either way, you need more details before making the call.

agreed..

I'm leaning towards it being rich on the needle clip position or mains. Especially if it gets worse with the choke pulled out. Go over the carb theory link so you understand what does what, do the plug chop, and adjust as needed. You need to dial in the mains before anything else. Here's a quick overview of the plug chop if you don't already know how to do it. You'll probably get better results in the jetting/exhaust board too. 1. Get new spark plug(s), but don't put them in yet. 2. Warm up motor to operating temp on old plugs. 3. Install new plugs. 4. Accellerate through all gears to top gear with throttle pinned. 5. When you hit the top of the top gear, hit the kill switch and pull in the clutch. 6. Remove the spark plug(s) and ride home on the old plug(s). 7. Hold the new plug in a vise and use a hacksaw to cut the threads away from the center electrode. 8. You should see a brown 2mm "smoke ring" at the base of the white center electrode if the main jets are dialed in perfect. 9. if the smoke ring is darker than chocolate brown or taller than 2mm, you're rich on the mains, but if it revs clean to full throttle, you can leave it there and be on the rich side. 10. If the smoke ring is smaller than 2mm or lighter than chocolate brown, you're lean on the mains, go up a size and try again.

exactly, and i did mine in neutral if i remember correctly. it is a very fine adjustment though, it may take some playing to get it right.

maybe time for new reeds?

Welcome to the site bud. You've definitely come to the right place for Banshee info.

Sand Whore

old fuel may cause the plugs to foul, but if the plug fouled you wouldn't be idling fine either. pull the carbs & give them a good cleaning & check the reeds to see if they're cracked at all. install new plugs & fresh gas. if it still acts up, you need to work on jetting. check this out for some guidelines. Carb Theory 101

no doubt. you can't go wrong with Wiseco.

i tried removing the snorkel, modifying the lid, and adding the little 1" uni vents all over it. i think i had 12 vents altogether. i tried it like that, then removed the lid altogether. the difference with the lid off was huge so that's how i left it. i already had a pro design plate & filter. i ride anything from muddy to dusty & even with frequent cleaning it let some junk through though. so i put on an Outerwears box cover when I did my last rebuild and it works great. ditch the lid, get an Outerwears cover, rejet as needed and you won't look back.

that would be my first guess. if nothing else get some wd40 into the cable and work it till it drips out the other end. it should loosen up. if not try a new cable before anything else if the clutch seems to work ok otherwise.

not that the folks here don't know what they're talking about, but getting in touch with your builder would be the best first step.

90 is considerably low. a lot of guys will rebuild at around 110 or so. 120-125 is about normal for stock top end in good shape. i would take it to a reputable shop and get the cylinders checked out. if it's that low with new rings then you probably need a fresh bore & hone. make sure if you get the cylinder work done they have the pistons on hand to match them to ensure a proper fit. a normal top end rebuild should run around $300, give or take. you might as well go with Wiseco's or something rather than stock also. of course there's all kinds of options for the rebuild, pretty much limited only by your budget. but i would say you are definitely in for at least a fresh top end.

yep, just cut that bitch out of there. you can pound on it for days and not get it out. if i remember correctly you need to chisel off the dust covers and then you can get to the bolt between the swinger & the frame. do one side first then the swinger will float enough to get to the other side. just be sure to put some good antisieze on everything when you put it back together and check it/lube it frequently.