MILO

if i had to rejet for 500 ft, i'd have to stop along the trails and change my jetting all the time. we're not a bunch of flatlanders here in pa and it's nothing to have elevation changes of alot more than that while riding. i wouldn't worry about it.

i got mine from upp racing about 4 years ago, and they are still there and working great. upp racing

cool. now you can look into how you want to mod it. i'd definitely start with pipes and a better air filter. pro design has a much better setup with the adaptor plate and filter. remove the air box lid if you're not concerned with being in deep water at all, but only with a pro design or similar set up. the stock filter is a pos. a good set of pipes and better air flow will give you really noticable gains for the $$. but of course that will require rejetting also.

i'll bet you really have to be in good shape to wrestle around a tank like that throughout a race i've been looking into getting a new grizzly, but i'm not going to give up the shee just yet. i need something to poke around with my dad on his rubicon but i'm not ready to give up the speed yet either. i just have to convince the wife that i need a grizz, lol.

i've used ronnies.com before for OEM parts. in my experience though, they are the same price as my local shop. i only went through them cuz i used their microfiche to figure things out and get prices and the shop couldn't get my parts any sooner anyway. and of course they came right to my door instead of having to make a trip to the shop. but you do have shipping costs then, so it's a toss up.

yamalube 2r - 32:1. you can't go wrong with that. 40:1 may be a bit to lean. 32:1 is safer for your top end. you can spend twice as much for oils that smell better, but umm, yeah, whatever.

congrat's guys :beer: cool pics :thumbsup:

holy shit bud, you are in for a rude awakening. if you don't give them a little respect in relation to the noise and whatever, they will be all over your ass everytime you get your shee out. there WILL be a cop waiting nearby when you head down the street. if your gonna leave it LOUD, at least respect them to the point of only ripping around at a decent time of day, not early mornings or late at night. if you got grounded for doing doughnuts, i'm sure when the neighbors start complaining to your parents about the noise and so on, your seat time will be almost extinct. you don't want that bud! otherwise, congrats on the free ride and fixing it up :beer:

if you already have had coolant in the oil and it's been slipping, i'd just replace the clutch kit. the coolant deteriates the bonding agents of the fibers and they will most likely wear out much sooner or eventually come apart. for the sake of a $35 clutch kit (tusk) i'd just replace it to be safe and avoid the hassle of problems down the road. you'd better check your impeller and seal to see if that was the source. or sometimes the rubber ring of the coolant inlet where the case and cover meet will wear out and leak also.

not necessarily. if the clutch was never adjusted at the boss to compensate for the cable being stretched and the adjustments were made only at the perch, you may luck out and be able to only readjust the perch. isn't the under the cover adjustment the beginning point and should always be the same, with the arrows lining up? the cable stretching won't change that, unless it was moved to compensate being out of adjustment at the perch rather than getting a new cable.

you can't always go by putting in an exact amount that's been measured out. there's no guarantee of what you get out if it when draining. in all of my vehicles, i usually put in roughly 1/2 qt less than what it calls for, then run it, let it cool for a few minutes then check and add as needed.

most pipes will show some discoloration within that range when first used if they are new from the initial heat dispersment. if the discoloration goes much farther, or if it suddenly changes and gets worse after the initial discoloration, it may be a jetting issue. running too lean may be excessively hot and turn your pipes and cause other problems also. you may want to double check your jetting, just to be on the safe side.

when i got my boots, i moved my shifter up to get underneath it better and still had problems. i realized that i made it easier to shift up, but i wasn't letting my foot back down far enough to return the shifter to it's normal position. then it wouldn't shift up to the next gear. keep trying and you'll get used to it with the boots. it feels like you shift with more of your leg than just moving your ankle since the boots don't allow you to do that anymore.

i got an old socket that matched the diameter of the bushings, put a 6" extension on it so i wouldn't smack the case, and hammered the shit out of it. yeah, it was a bitch :shoothead: i believe i cut the rear one as close as i could to the case on each side so i was only pushing out 2 little pieces toward the middle rather than 1 large one the whole way through. that seemed to help also.

bud, you just need some more ho's to pimp :yelrotflmao:

go through their website and the check out process. you'll see the shipping options. usually standard 5-7 day ups, 3 day express, or next day air. of course they cost a little more, but sometimes its worth it if you're dying to ride.

it could be a few things. if i remember correctly that's what mine did when my clutch was starting to go. you will notice the clutch slipping more in the higher gears, and won't be as noticable in the lower gears. double check your oil to make sure you don't have any coolant leaking into it. that's what started my problems, and eventually destroyed my clutch plates. the coolant makes the fibers come apart. if there is any coolant in your oil, it will appear to be a little milky looking. it usually comes from a bad impeller seal, or o ring seal inside where the cover meets the case, where your hose goes into the case. if the oil looks good, check your adjustment on the crank case. the push lever assembly(the other end of your cable) has an arrow on it. loosen the adjuster at the perch all the way, then push on the lever assembly at the case by hand until it stops and note where the arrow lines up with the arrow molded into the crank case. they should line up pretty close. if not, you need to pull the clutch cover and adjust the screw in the middle of the clutch assembly until the arrows line up by the above procedure. then readjust it at the perch. if the arrows line up and you still can't get the adjustment correct at the perch, you may just need a new cable. the old one could be stretched or kinked and binding somewhere. the only other thing i can think of is if the push lever is worn where the rod connects with it inside the motor behind the clutch. my nephew's blaster had that problem, among others, lol. hope that helps. :cool:

i'll second the tusk clutch kit. they take a beating for all the more they cost. :thumbsup: and i'd replace the steels, fibers, and springs together while you're working on it. it's really not expensive, and worth it to do it all together.

hey bud, i'm just curious - why would you make your name ' michael jackson' :shrug: :shoothead: my apologies, if that is your real name.

i understand if there is some competition between the sites for membership, usage, and so on. but what's good for one should be good for the other. personally, i don't like planet sand. for one, i'm not a duner, and secondly the people here just seem to be much more friendly and willing to help out, even with the newbies. but if they are going to not allow anything 'hq' in their site, then yep, i agree, moderators should wipe out anything 'planetsand' on this site. especially since it seems that they look down on the hq anyway. if they don't respect the hq, then they have no right to be here, in any form.

congrats bud. i'm sure they were all very informative and helpful, no bs posts :biggrin: i'm on your tail though, only 10, 788 behind :yelrotflmao: watch out loco, i'm gunnin for ya. :thumbsup:

we put an armadillo skid on my nephew's blaster a few years ago. it mounted up fine, and seems to be holding up really well, and he puts a beating on it, lol.

i'm not a junkie that rebuilds the top end once or more a year, or changes tranny oil after every ride, but i do try to take care of mine also. before each ride... - check tranny oil - check coolant level - check chain tension and sprockets - check tires - make sure your gas is mixed before adding, lol after each ride... - normal washing - check / clean filter and air box(especially after dusty or muddy rides) - make sure radiator fins are clean for air flow occasionally... - check shock bushings - check a-arm bushings - check rear linkage bushings - check swing arm bushings - check rear axle bearings - check compression - clean carbs and re sync - grease all fittings - lube cables - check brake pads / rotors - change tranny oil (depending on riding time) - change antifreeze 1 / year for me - do a plug chop to check jetting that's about all i can think of at the moment, it's after midnight, lol.

yeah, milage really depends on location and length of the riding season. here in pa i'm lucky to have 5 good months of riding, maybe 6 with cooler temps. that's betweent the rain of course. the most i've heard of on a cbr is around 60,000 miles and it's supposedly still going strong. of course it all depends on how it's taken care of. my '92 f2 only has 17,000 on it, but i've been slacking on seat time the past few years.

i'd be interested too. i would like to see some examples though. figure out a design and post up some pics and how to get them.