MILO

hey bud, i wouldn't ever re-use a gasket like that, just replace it. if it still leaks it may be your impeller seal. the stock impeller is famous for falling apart and destroying the seal to the bottom end. pull the cover for it and see what shape it is in. even if the impeller is fine, try replacing the seal and bearing behind it.

photobucket works fine for me too. did you use the "insert image' button when you are making your post? i just copy the pic link from photobucket, paste it in the insert field and yeehaw, there's my pic. the image insert automatically plugs in the img code in brackets around your link, so just paste in the http link.

well, it does look kind of cool and it would be something to add to your list of mods.:biggrin: but i think that the normal skid plate under the sprocket is sufficient and would still protect it better. the stock pos skid has gotten jammed into my rotor and chain b4, but not my dg skid. and for you light weight junkies, that would just be more weight to have to turn and make you lose your drag race, lol.

here's mine - it's just the stocker painted silver. :biggrin:

hey bud, i know you don't want it to be this but you should check your piston out. pull off the carb and the reed cage and look into the cylinder to your piston. also pull the exhaust pipe and look in from that side also. mine had similar issues before and it ended up being a broken ring and seat and the debris flopped around on top of the piston and pretty much destroyed the dome in the stock head. the piston skirt was also cracked. i had pretty much the same symptoms. i started simple and brought it home and cleaned the carbs and fired it up. it didn't backfire as much but still ran the same. peeked in the cylinder and i had trouble. here's some pic's of the damage.

unless it's a well known name i'd stay away from the cheap e-bay chains. as far as the x-ring chains, i''ve been running a DID x-ring for a few years and it seems to be holding up well. clean it, lube it, keep it adjusted right and it should last you a long time. and i agree with woodro77, you don't want a cheap chain to break and cause other issues also.

if you run the hinson basket, hub, and p-plate you also need to run their plate set up. if i'm not mistaken it's an 8 fiber plate kit and a stock clutch plate kit has 7. someone chime in if i'm wrong.

personally i think that mothers polish works better than the neverdull does. either way, some patience and lots of elbow grease is the trick. :thumbsup:

when i was searching for a basket most told me to go with Hinson, so i did. I have a Hinson basket, through in a new stock hub and p-plate with a Tusk kit. I just couldn't see spending $900 on the whole Hinson set up, at least not on my shee. maybe if it was built up more but it's not yet. i haven't had any problems with my Hinson basket or tusk kit. i'm pretty impressed with it so far.

here are my dumbo ears :biggrin: i thought about cutting them off but they do help a lot on muddy trails. besides, i need somewhere to put my stickers :thumbsup:

if you've ever had your shins raked across your footpeg or leg slipped under the rear wheel, you'll appreciate having reg height boots. :ohmy: i'm riding with a-stars t6's which i really like. i tried on about a dozen different brands and styles and i'm telling you, you get what you pay for. you really need to just go to some shops and try some on and see what fits you best. i was really after the thor t30's? until i tried them on, and they were really uncomfortable for me. the t6's were the most comfy and within my budget. try boots on at the shops and then shop the net for the best deal. oh yeah, and almost any boot will be stiff until well broken in. you'll get used to it in no time though and forget you even have them on, until they protect you as they're supposed to, then you'll be gratefull to have them. another little tip, you may have to raise your gearshift a little with riding boots on. shifting is hard to do without the flex in your ankle, you kind of have to shift with your whole leg. but again, you get used to it and soon won't even notice. i think you can't go wrong with a-stars though.

so i'm considering getting my jugs ported for woods / trails and adding a timing plate (+4). i'm wondering when the need to have the crank trued and welded comes in? also how much will the clutch take b4 needing a serious upgrade? i already have a hinson basket but stock hub and p-plate with a tusk kit w/ hd springs. is there a compression point where the crank comes into play or is it just one of those things that only the extremely built motors need? other mods are typical bolt ons: PC pipes pro design filter - no lid v3's noss head / 20cc domes stock bore with wiseco's - honed once i'm at about 1200 ft and jetted accordingly

i don't think that you need any fancy equipment to bleed brake lines. if done right, they should be fine. 1. make sure your res cap is off and the res is full 2. loosen the bleeder on the caliper 3. slowly compress the lever completely, if you go to fast it will splash out of the rez. 4. hold the lever in and tighten the bleeder 5. slowly return the lever to it's normal position 6. check fluid level and refill if necessary 7. repeat, repeat, repeat... until you no longer see the bubbles or air in the fluid coming out of the bleeder 8. replace the res cap and you should notice significant pressure, if not, repeat...... i've never done the ft brakes but isn't one to be done b4 the other, like the pattern in an auto system?

Rocky Mountain ATV is a great place for a variety of parts and accessories at decent prices and i'm sure they ship international, but i think you have to call or fax the order in, you can't do it on the net. you could always check out what you want on their site, call them up and ask what shipping would be to your location. by the way, welcome to the Banshee HQ :beer:

if you're not running it at all, just drain it. if you don't want to drain it, at least take the cap off of the radiator. if it does freeze at all the ice will expand and that's what cracks things. if you relieve some of the pressure by leaving the cap off at least the coolant will not build pressure so bad and will have somewhere to push out rather than crack something. it's like a bottle of water in the freezer. if you leave the lid on it it will crack the bottle, if not it just swells up a little or pushes out.

have you had the carbs off lately to clean them? if so do you have the carb bowls on the right carbs. the left one has the 'starter jet' in the bottom of it. if you have them swapped, you'll have a really hard time on cold starts. also there is supposed to be a crossover tube between the carbs. it's just a small hose about a few inches long that runs from one carb to the other on the front side of the carbs. if it's not on there, you'll have starting issues also. put in new plugs, clean the filter, check the carbs for the tube and bowls, check your intake boots etc for cracks or anything that would leak excess air in. if that doesn't do the trick check your compression and let us know what you come up with.

yeah, i've ripped on my tusk clutch in the woods a lot and it's held up very well so far. you can't beat it for RMATV's price. :thumbsup:

i usually take off the res cap and press it in. if you can't do it by hand a lg pair of channel locks or a small c-clamp will do the trick. the problem i have more often is getting the mounting plate to press back in far enough to be able to get it back over the rotor without it rubbing the rotor. but the same tricks usually work just as well for that.

i would say that as long as it is FULL when it's level it should be fine. it's going to 'swish around' whether it's set level or not. you should be ok bud. :cool:

yeah, it's all cool. i replied to your PM.

or possibly the 0-ring seal for the coolant inlet where the cover meets the crank case. but most likely the impeller seal.

about the same here, and the kids love hanging out around the fire pit and having a BBQ too. i'm out on my cbr600 as much or more than the shee in the summer months. in the winter and there's snow, hooking a sled to the grizz for the kids is pretty cool too. from the end of Sept. - Mid December, sometimes later, it's all about hunting season. the toys don't see much action then. otherwise, just hanging out with my wife and kids.

here's a pic of my shee with the DMP graphics and seat cover on it and a clicky for their site. i looked all over for a seat cover like this and it's the only one that i could find. ceet used to make them but i don't think they do anymore. dmp covers

clutch adjuster locknut - 62 in lb (7 N*m) clutch nut - 59 ft lbs. (80 N*m) clutch spring bolts - 53 in lb. (6 N*m) there you go bud :thumbsup:

this is cool. i was going to get on here today and ask about this but i did a search first and of course, it's just another common banshee issue. this why the HQ kicks ass!! :beer: