MILO

yeah, same deal here. but i have had some issues with other sites also, so i didn't think it was just the hq. but i did notice it more here though. :shrug:

yeah, i always think my shee is pretty quick, till i jump on my cbr and take off. then i feel like i have to mod up the shee again. :biggrin:

a 929 will be quicker on a straight away. i used to keep up with my cousin's gxsr1000 and my buddies cbr900 till we hit about 60-70 or so then they pulled away. but i could dust either of them in the corners cuz their bikes would push out more and i could cruise through. of course that may just be the riders though. a 600 is plenty for ripping around the streets, unless you're looking to go over about 160. that's where the 900 + bikes shine. otherwise a 600 is great. things to look for ... tire wear, look for chicken strips to see if he cornered hard much or if just the centers are worn. and check to see if the ends of the pegs look like they've been drug on the road at all. brakes, chain and sprockets, check the oil and antifreeze to see if maintained, check the wheels for the bearings. look for any scratches, dents etc that appear to be from laying it over, even around the mirrors. check for rear shock leakage, or around the front forks, or for softness/spongyness. stunters will wear them out a lot quicker. take it for a ride and make sure it shifts smooth and the clutch isn't on it's way out. obviously you need to giver it a good run to test it out, but make sure you hit all the gears at one time or another. bring her back and let it set for a little idling and see if the fan works, and watch the temp to see if it overheats. make sure all the lights, signals, and horn work. check for it's last inspection and when it's due next. these may sound like some little things but it will clue you in to how it was taken care of and if you're going to have any issues with it. maybe even give you some bargaining range. if you have more questions now or even after you get it , check out this site that i recently found. it's pretty cool. it's the equivalent of the hq. cbr forum

yeah, i always thought that too. if i'm looking at my tires, i'm gonna crash into a tree or something, lol. i'm always looking way ahead and planning my path, then take it. kind of like my work philosophy. plan your work and work your plan.

i'm still debating cutting mine. i like the look, but for those who say they don't do shit, i'm not so sure about that. maybe not for your lower legs, but it does protect your face a little. there's been lots of times that i looked around the fenders to see if a tire was low and then got blasted with water or mud. :: and they are always caked with mud after riding, so they do catch some of it. i've taken mine off and rode around the yard before and i do like the view, seeing the tires and watching the suspension work is kind of cool. i'd have to go on some normal rides to be sure before doing it though. i'd suggest that to anyone who's not sure about doing it.

well.... :biggrin: technically, yes. but i can't help it if happens to get flipped up when riding :shrug: the only people who really care and want to see it are the ones who you don't want to see it, lol. but hey it's on there so i'm as legal as i'm going to get.

with the clutch perch adjustment all the way in (loose) the arrows should line up only when you push on the lever (towards the middle of the motor) and the lever stops. the only way to adjust this is to pull the clutch cover and adjust the screw in the middle of the clutch assembly. if there was that much dirt and grime in there, i'd say you're in for a new clutch and maybe some clutch components. are you sure there wasn't antifreeze or water leaking in from the impeller or something. antifreeze will slowly destroy your fibers. you don't want to replace everything and have the same problem again. and those rubber rings between the plates are basically to cut down on clutch 'chatter'. they are not needed with most aftermarket clutch kits.

you could also pull off the carbs and reed cages and take a gander at the pistons from that side also. but i wouldn't rip into the motor without checking things out as listed above. since the builder did the jetting for you also, that may help you out if you go back to complain. if all you have done is piped and filtered, 280 may be way lean at 1500 ft. i'm at 1250 ft and with just pipes and filtered, i ran 360's to get good plug chops.

- be very careful when tightening the spring bolts. they are pretty easy to snap off. make sure you have your torque wrench set correctly and it is accurate, or just go by the feel of it. sometimes you can tell when one is about to snap. -double check your basket for grooves in the fingers, and stress cracks in your basket, inner hub and pressure plate. i had to replace my basket (hinson) but i replaced the hub and p plate with new stockers, they are pretty cheap. - follow the clymer's for installation of the steel plates, they have to be oriented in a staggered pattern. basically your clymer's should walk you through it pretty well.

that's probably a good idea bud. i wouldn't buy anything from a guy that doesn't even know what he has, unless i knew for certain that it would be a steal. :wink:

i don't remember having that much trouble with my dg's. the only clamps that were a pain were the rear ones, which don't fit perfectly over the frame, but pretty close. i've had it on and off several times and you just have to get it close, then work it around a little and it will line up pretty decent. the front of the plate does fit under the stock bumper, but all i did was loosen it up, put on the skid, and rebolt the bumper :shrug:

hey bud, sorry to hear about the loss of your home and toys. but they can be replaced. thank God you and your family are safe. a few months ago, a distant member of my family lost their home and everything they own, and unfortunately one of their young children. i'm sure your situation sucks, but it could be worse. stay positive and prepare to move on with your family intact. that's the most important thing of all. good luck.

i don't think you'll have to worry about them cracking, but they may develop stress marks in the plastic. they will bounce around a little more and over time may begin to sag, but i think that would take quite a while to do so. i pulled the heel guards off of mine also, and ground off the bracket that they fit into, and repainted them. here's a pic.

i mounted my license plate on the grab bar. they make license hanger clamps lined with rubber, and the bolts run thru the holes in your plate. mines not clamped tight though so it flips around, and the #'s aren't visible all the time :thumbsup: we've also just used heavy duty zip ties and tied it to the grab bar before, or the rear rack worked on my dads ute.

thanks for the input guys. i considered the back pack too, but i don't think it would work to well with the chest protector on, which i'm not leaving behind. i'll see what i can come up with.

i would guess around 3-4 hours of mixed trail riding. the poker runs we go on are usually 25-30 miles and have a few play areas. i ride hard when i can, hit all the hill climbs i can, but get stuck behind the utes sometimes too, and i haven't had to hit reserve once yet. every shee is different though bud. i'd say just try it out and see what you end up with, you may be surprised at how far shee'll go.

hey bud, don't rule out the pro circuits either. i have them on my shee and 90% of my riding is trail riding. they seem to pull good bottom to top. and they don't sound like a pop can rattling or a kazoo either.

you should be fine. it's just a matter of it being best to change everything together if one or the other is worn significantly cuz it will cause premature wear on the new parts.

i agree, and was considering doing the same thing if i get one.

hey bud, that wasn't so simple what do you mean????

i've gotten in the habit of carrying tools with me when we go riding. the problem is finding a bag or something to put them in that will last and fit easily somewhere on the shee. i had a little backpack strapped to my grab bar, but it doesn't last long in the water/mud and riding conditions. what do you all carry along, and how do you store it on your shee... i usually carry: tire plugs and small hand pump extra plugs and plug wrench 9" & 6" channel locks the reversible flat/philips screw driver(stock tool kit) 8" crescent wrench tusk t handle socket set electrical tape & knife misc. mm wrenches(stock tool kit) and yes, i've used everything in there at one time or another. maybe not on my shee, but it was great to have along to fix something for myself or a buddy.

prices are usually listed per tire bud

riveted chains are supposedly stronger and less likely to come apart since you don't have the possibility of the clip coming off or being damaged. at least that is what the honda shop told me when i had to have my new chain on my cbr put together with their special tool. personally, i like the regular clip style master link. as long as it is installed the right direction, it shouldn't be an issue. i've had my cbr up to about 150 on clip master links and i'm still alive :biggrin:

i put dg's on my shee when it was new in 01. the chassis plate has held up great, and swinger plate has taken some punishment over the years, and finally cracked the welds late last summer. all in all, for the pounding it has taken, i doubt anything else would have held up any better. no complaints with the dg's here. i don't think the a arm plates really do much besides protect the paint. it's not like your shock or anything can be damaged from underneath the way the a arm is made.

you might want to try some new plugs anyway. they can have spark, but not be strong enough to fire properly. :shrug: