MILO

i've made 19 orders with RMATV online over the past few years. i've never once had any issues with them. create an account with them so you can earn points and get rewards if you are spending over $1000/yr. with an account you can also track your shipments, create machine profiles and personal profiles that make your shopping easier. you will also recieve their new catalogs when they come out without having to request them. 90% of the time they have the best prices on things and have them in stock when other places don't. packaging of items ordered has been good so far also. you can't go wrong with RMATV.

same issues here once also... get the tires balanced or replaced.

hey bud, sorry to hear about you having to pack up and move temporarily. at least you have a fair warning and can get your family and things out safely. unlike other natural disasters that hit with little or no warning. i hope everything is intact for you to return to. :thumbsup:

check out DMP graphics. here's a pic of my blue shee with DMP on it. dmp covers check out e-bay b4 buying direct from DMP, you're bound to save some $$.

i just bought an '08 grizzly 700 (camo) and like the sport quads it has plastic skids on it and plastic a-arm guards. so far not many places have anything out for '08 models yet, but ricochet does and they seem to be pretty decent skids for a decent price. i'm covering everything, the ft and rr bash plates, 4 a-arm guards, and the engine skids. anyone have any experience with ricochet's products?? also since it's a camo model everything else is black and i hate to have shiny silver skids sticking out everywhere. ever see any come in black from anywhere, or what's the best option for painting them?

it's hard to ride here in my area of pa and not get into any mud or water. it's just a given, if you want to ride, you're going to get wet or muddy, lol. that's why i wouldn't waste the $$ on bling'n stuff for the shee, i'd spend more time taking care of it than riding. mud riding can be awesome. theirs a lot of fun to be had in the mud, and the cleanup afterwards is just part of the deal. it is an ATV after all, get it dirty, lol, it will be just fine. i'll leave the polishing and shining for my sport bike and cars/trucks. here's a pic, and yeah this is mild compared to some of our rides.

suck off bud! that's exactly my point. i assumed it was one of those like when a guy bores the cylinders .020 and calls it a 390 banshee. and honestly, no, i've never heard of "Twister" anything. but hey, i'm not a super banshee nut and into all of the latest and greatest banshee shit. yeah, i have one, and i like to ride it and have done some minor mods and repairs. i'm learning as i go from the decent guys on here. most guys here probably have ridden more in a week than i have been able to all this summer. my wife and kids come first, then my work, then if i have time for the shee, great, if not oh well it sits in my garage. i don't live for my banshee and making it the baddest bike in the land. it runs fine, when something breaks on it, i'll modify it to fix it. i don't have a money tree in my yard so i don't drewel over all the slick new toys and bling bling out there. if you don't like it, whatever bud, but that doesn't make me 'fucking retarded'. if you really think so then you can kiss my ass! i'm sure you were once in the less knowledgable stage of things too. so don't be such an asshole and be hackin on me over not being as great as you are. how about i 'giveyouabeer' and you relax a bit. :beer:

i'm sure they do, maybe they just need to work on their advertising. a 1050cc banshee motor by adding a 3rd cylinder?? i guess they are figuring they can sucker people in with that. that makes me not want to deal with them if that's how they operate, that's all. i'm not knocking their ability to build a motor or performance components.

i have pro circuits on my '01 and ride mostly trails and open farming areas. i really like my pc's from top to bottom. they pull good even in tight trails and scream in the wide open areas. they sound pretty cool too, not like a kazoo or a rattling pop can like some of the other pipes. :cool:

it's probably blowing out your exhaust flanges. there should be a rubber o-ring inside of the exhaust pipe that seals with the flange to prevent oil from coming out and seals the exhaust flow. i'm sure you can get replacement o-rings if they are shot or absent.

i would definitely change the impeller for a pro design billet one, along with a new bearing and seal. the stocker WILL fail, it's inevitable. and like firehead said, it will happen at the worst time possible, of course. the play in the clutch basket is 'normal', as in it's a very common problem. what it is, is there are rubber cushions that sit in pockets between the basket and the large gear that you see attached to it, and they get worn. my understanding was that if it has more than about 1/4" of play, or movement, then they need replaced. less than 1/4" shouldn't be a problem but keep an eye on it. the cushions cannot be replaced on a stock basket. the gear is riveted to the basket and once taken apart cannot be put back together. so you would be in for another basket. an aftermarket basket comes with screws to replace the rivet set up, and the cushions can usually be replaced as needed. :cool:

ditto.... if nothing else, it's a little insurance against it happening again. after you get it all together again, you might want to change the oil again a short time after to clean out as much coolant as possible from the bottom end. and beware, you might end up having clutch problems now as well. the coolant degrades the clutch fibers and the clutch will start slipping, especially in the higher gears. if you catch it before any major damage is done, you may only need a clutch kit. tusk kits are around $30-$40.

if you have stock carbs... 1. look on the side of the carb where the slide travels, near the top and you'll see a small window on each carb, from the right side of the quad 2. push your throttle and you should see the slides moving thru the window. 3. at almost full throttle you should see what appears to be a dot come into sight in the window. this is actually an indentation in the slide. 4. you should see both slide indentations come into each window at the same time, and stop at the same time - if so it is 'roughly' synchronized. 5. if they don't come into the window simultaneously, make adjustments as needed at the throttle cable where it connects to the carb top. 6. you can also pull off your air filter and look thru the intake box and see the slides in the carbs. watch the movement when you push the throttle and adjust it till they both begin to move at the same time. this method will get you synchronized close enough that you should be running fine. but i think FAST makes a sync tool that will get it synchronized much better and quicker. good luck. somebody chime in if i missed anything. :cool: oh yeah, and any adjustments made after synchronizing need to me made equally to each carb. if you adjust the idle with the knobs on the back of the carbs, do it equally.

yeah bud, you should have 2 clips per piston, to hold it from coming out either side. if your pistons didn't come with enough i'd go back to wherever you got them and complain and get replacements. i wouldn't re-use the old ones if you don't have to. but i'm sure it would work fine if you are in a pinch.

they say it's a 1000cc + - WTF is that about? an engine builder who thinks the shee being a twin 350 = 700cc, then add another 350cc, and now it's a 1050cc??? i'd stay away from that one. but the idea does have some merit if done properly. but i'd still rather go with a cbr600 motor or something before doing that.

i put a tusk clutch in mine with a new hinson basket, new stock hub and p-plate about 2 yrs ago. all are holding up fine so far. clutch life really depends on oil changes and how much you abuse it though. but i can't complain about my tusk clutch kit as of yet. especially considering the low cost of them.

they are not hard to install. a few key points or problem areas... 1) recommend soaking the fibers in your tranny oil several hours before installation 2) aligning them correctly in the basket. the steels are staggered in a particular location and pattern to provide balance and smooth operation. 3) do not overtighten the spring bolts, they will snap 4) proper clutch adjustment. a basket replacement can be a little more involved, but still relatively easy. get a clymer's manual, it will walk you through it all step by step, start to finish. :cool:

that is normal. sometimes it just comes from general riding, up and down steep hills, when the coolant gets tossed all around in the resevoir and system. some guys will relocate the res to under the 'hood' on the front of the frame to eliminate this happening. personally, i never thought it was that big of a deal. :shrug:

anytime you make any changes to your air intake set up you should double check your jetting. there's always the possibility of needing to adjust. do a plug chop after the install and go from there. getting rid of the stocker for a pro design is a great move bud. you won't regret it. :cool:

same here. i think that you need to go to a race to really appreciate the whole nascar scene. i've only ever been to dover, but it was enough to get me into nascar for a while. watching it on tv only though pretty much sucks, but it's pretty impressive at the track. same with hockey. on tv it gets boring but nothing compares to being at a game with a bunch of rowdy fans. :beer:

hey rippen, don't just go and watch, take your shee and shoot that hill or are there a bunch of stipulations on getting in on the fun?

i think he's still drunk :yelrotflmao: lol. hey bud, nobody here sais "creek". especially the folks from a small area called "Bulls Crick" :yelrotflmao:

i agree with wallace84. it may take some time to sell everything, but if you have the patience, i'll bet you would be better off to sell the items seperately on e-bay. maybe even here on the hq?

what kind of job do you have if you have that much free time? i'm a fabrication dept. supervisor at my work and i'd find your ass something to do :biggrin:

hey cody, you must be pretty bored, lol. yeah, that should be done every time you have the carb tops off to help sync the carbs. i usually pull the filter off and look thru the intake and watch the slides move and adjust as needed also.