SlowerThanYou Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 STY, let me know if you need any setup advice. LOL! If you don't mind, what's wrong with it?? I have a couple thoughts, but I'll let the Pro's figure it out (K&T). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted July 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 The motor was dropped off at K&T this morning. They are gone for a week & return back to work on July 29. Randy wanted to have the motor there when he got back, to dyno. We discussed things for awhile to decide a game plan. He's going to baseline the motor the way we last ran it. Then start with putting their pipes on the motor. Supposedly the only difference between our pipes is we have silencers. Then going to test their lectrons on it & maybe a dome change. We have 16.5:1 compression domes on the motor now, but also brought the 14.5:1 domes to test. We have some other minor things to change, but I don't feel like typing anymore dribble. While I don't have a lot of riding time with this motor. I think the problem is no RPM. It seems like the motor goes into over rev somewhere around 8,000-8,500 rpm. Where it should be somewhere around 9,500 rpm. I guess we'll see when we get some pulls on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 Shit always runs better in utah just a fyi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 Ever get it to K&T for Dyno time? Curious to see #'s If you don't mind, what's wrong with it?? This thread sucks. Excuse after excuse. They built you a motor, word is you're not happy at all with it. You really need to stay off the sauce, BoyBlunder. If the thread sucks stop asking questions or even continue looking at it. No, but you would rather be a hypocrite. Now, what is it? The motor is at K&T for Dyno time, just like you asked earlier this month. You are one confused little boy, "Curious to see #'s". That was 13 days ago, you flop more than a fish out of water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 Any update? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted August 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 Any update? Message from Randy this past Thurs. Should be on the Dyno this coming week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duecebanshees Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 (edited) I am a complete idiot.......... But the sand to asphalt translation seems to still be lagging many many years later, in some aspects. I know you have opened my eyes to many things. But more is not always better. if you want more revs..... the higher you go on compression the less you are going to get on the rpms. Just my opionion. i have never ran any motor over 165psi. that being said. i know i spray mine and manipulate them in other ways as well. but, I rev them WAY over your spec. so, just to throw it out there......... maybe you are over compressing the fact ? ................ you want revs............ high compression makes a strong bottom............ a banshee motor does not naturally have a strong bottom...... give and take sir....... just saying.....maybe this is being over processed ? Edited August 3, 2013 by duecebanshees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 You can have a high compression ratio and still low psi. I didn't notice if he mentioned the psi?? I'm sure K&T will get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Bryan, what pipes are on this thing? What is the ID of the stinger tubes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted August 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I am a complete idiot.......... But the sand to asphalt translation seems to still be lagging many many years later, in some aspects. I know you have opened my eyes to many things. But more is not always better. if you want more revs..... the higher you go on compression the less you are going to get on the rpms. Just my opionion. i have never ran any motor over 165psi. that being said. i know i spray mine and manipulate them in other ways as well. but, I rev them WAY over your spec. so, just to throw it out there......... maybe you are over compressing the fact ? ................ you want revs............ high compression makes a strong bottom............ a banshee motor does not naturally have a strong bottom...... give and take sir....... just saying.....maybe this is being over processed ? Jimmy, The sand guys seem to like the higher compression for good reason. We know on asphalt that doesn't work or we haven't figured it out yet, LOL! Trying to keep a motor alive in the 1/4 mile isn't as easy as everyone thinks. Sure, just about anyone can do it, but can they be fast doing it. !/4 mile is a tuning nightmare, we actually find the tuning for shorter distances much easier for keeping the motor alive & well. As for the compression, we started with 14.5:1 & went to 16.5:1. Our quicker times was with the lower compression, with the highest mph. That's for 300', the only distance we have ran so far. You can have a high compression ratio and still low psi. I didn't notice if he mentioned the psi?? I'm sure K&T will get it right. We gave the calculated compression above. The 1st ones psi was 149 & the 2nd one was 169 taken at 2,300' ASL. Yes, I'm sure K&T will get it right. Bryan, what pipes are on this thing? What is the ID of the stinger tubes? We are running Shearers, that are supposed to be a copy of K&Ts pipes. Except for us using silencers. I measured them, but can't remember. Anyway, they are at K&T & they measured the same I.D. as theirs. We did find our stingers were around 4"s longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted August 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Dyno update from K&T yesterday. Randy went to remove our flywheel to install theirs for remote starting, "I think we found a problem". Our flywheel was hard to come off. When he did get it off, the flywheel was destroyed. It had sheared the key. It also spun so bad it took out the keyway & that end of the crank. Randy is hoping to have it fixed & back on the dyno in a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Yeah...... Those big motors are mean to parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Sum bitch. So you were running an OEM ignition set up? I bet the stinger length is playing a part in performance also. You are required to run silencers on the asphalt aren't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted August 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Sum bitch. So you were running an OEM ignition set up? I bet the stinger length is playing a part in performance also. You are required to run silencers on the asphalt aren't you? Yes, we have a brand new oem stator & had a good used flywheel. Looks like we will pony up for a new flywheel (ouch), more duckets than the stator. We put a new stock cdi on it, but primarily use the Dyna cdi. We will find out about the stinger deal when the motor gets fixed. After the baseline runs are done. The 1st change is putting K&Ts pipes on. Yes, we have to run silencers on asphalt. Plus, I can't stand the sound/noise of open stingers. We even run mufflers on our drag cars & most of the time they aren't required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I'm interested in hearing the results of the different pipe setups. I think you're leaving a significant amount of power on the table with your current setup. I think the stingers being longer and the silencers being there are hindering performance some. I guess we will find out the real deal. Just FYI, we run 1 1/8" ID stinger tubes on the 10 and 18DMs. I have a buddy that went from running the standard DM in-frames to running one of my setups and he noticed a drastic improvement in power everywhere on a 10DM. The bike sounded much better too. If you have to run silencers, maybe you can run a bigger ID stinger tube to help compensate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.